Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 6/20/25 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 6/20/25

Crystal Symphony - 9 Night Mediterranean

We spend 9 nights on Crystal Symphony sailing from Barcelona to Rome.

By Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson

Tarragona | Palma de Mallorca | Porto Mahon | At Sea | La Spezia | Livorno | Porto Santo Stefano | Civitavecchia (Rome) | Civitavecchia (Rome)

Day-By-Day Cruise Blog

Since our 2023 review of sister ship, Crystal Serenity, there have been some additional changes on Crystal’s ships. Both ships have received a new casino and a new Beefbar specialty dining venue. Therefore, we thought it would be good to update our review of Crystal with a sailing aboard the slightly smaller, and a little older, Crystal Symphony.

THE SHIP

*Crystal Symphony docked in Porto Mahon, Menorca*

“This was our 148th cruise and our fifth on Crystal...”

— CruiseReport

Crystal Symphony is the smaller of the two Crystal ocean ships with a guest capacity of 602. What is interesting is, that when Crystal re-emerged under new ownership in 2022, they actually re-designed the ships to hold FEWER guests! When this ship was first launched, she held more than 900 guests. Crystal reduced the number of suites onboard both ships and introduced new, larger suites in several categories. The result is a very high space-to-guest ratio.

Crystal Symphony has retained much of the original charm of the luxury brand while updating and refreshing many areas.

*Waterfall fountain that spans two decks in Crystal Plaza*

We saw what appeared to be new carpeting throughout the ship. The Crystal Plaza is the main lobby area and it appears to be untouched and original, yet still elegant and classy.

There are three banks of elevators and stairways. There are three midship elevators, three forward elevators and two aft elevators. We never had to wait long for an elevator; however, on our sailing, the ship was only at about 60% capacity. The layout of the ship is very logical and it is easy to find your way around. All public spaces are on Decks 5, 6, 11 and 12. Deck 4 is primarily used for tender operations or to disembark/embark.

WiFi/Internet

Whether we like it or not, we are all tied to technology and a ship’s WiFi is a subject for review. Every guest receives a complimentary “Standard” unlimited WiFi package. After just a couple of days struggling to get some websites to load, I decided to pay the $100 to upgrade to the Premium WiFi package. I think it may have been a $10 per day charge, and since this was a 10-day cruise, the cost was $100.

With the Premium WiFi package, you can have up to four devices connected simultaneously, which was enough for my iPhone, my laptop and Rickee’s iPhone and iPad. Speeds and connectivity varied throughout the cruise, which is typical, but overall, the Premium WiFi was about three times faster than the Standard.

ACCOMMODATIONS

One of the best features of Crystal ships is the spacious suites. And yes, every stateroom is considered a suite, with amenities that you would expect on a luxury cruise line. Our Sapphire Veranda Suite had a large bathroom with a massive rain-shower-head shower. Luxury shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, bar soap, and body lotion are provided. There are dual sinks, and plenty of storage space.

The suite has a separate living room and bedroom, separated by a heavy curtain. The bedroom has a king-sized bed, two nightstands and a large flat screen TV. The living room is furnished with a large sofa, a coffee table, a chair, an end table with storage, a small dining table with seating for two, and a large marble desk.

There are USB (USB-A and USB-C) charging ports at the desk and at each nightstand. US-Style 110v outlets and European 220v outlets were also available at the desk, at nightstands and next to the sofa.

One of our critiques of our Sapphire Veranda Suite on Crystal Serenity was the lack of a full length mirror. Crystal has solved this problem by placing a full length mirror on the back of the suite door. Simple, yet effective.

Our balcony was long, but a little narrow. However, there were large, cushioned chairs on the balcony with padded ottomans. This is probably the most comfortable balcony furniture of any ship on which we have sailed. There are two heavy sliding glass doors leading to the balcony: one in the bedroom and the other in the living room.

The suite furnishings looked fresh and new with no visible signs of wear. After all, the ship was refurbished in 2023. The walk-in closet has plenty of storage for a 30+ day cruise and is equipped with wooden hangers, a complimentary umbrella, a shoe horn, a hair dryer and a large electronic safe. All of the drawers throughout the suite, including the 4-drawers in the closet, are soft close, as is the toilet seat and lid. The closet is located off of the living room instead of the bedroom, which is a little odd, but the layout works.

The bed is really comfortable and all of the linens and bedding are very high quality. The pillows were a little too soft for us but we were able to request firmer pillows which were more to our liking.

Our Sapphire Veranda on Symphony was noticeably smaller than the one we had on Crystal Serenity. I would estimate the suite to have been about 2 feet shorter overall, and a bit narrower. Perhaps this could be the case because the suite’s location on the ship is forward where the hull narrows.

All Crystal suites come with butler service and our butler on this cruise, Milind, was nothing short of amazing. Every special request was handled quickly and efficiently. Milind has been with Crystal for 21 years. And, we met several crew members who said they, too, have been with Crystal for 20+ years.

*Milind has been with Crystal for 21 years*

Crystal butlers can assist with a variety of things during your cruise. They can help with shore excursion tickets, restaurant reservations, picking up and delivering clothing items to be pressed or laundered, shoe shine services, and much more. Each day between 3:30pm and 4:30pm, Milind would show up at our suite with the most delicious canapés.

*Canapés delivered to our suite each afternoon*

Several luxury cruise lines do offer canapés delivered each day, but Crystal has the best we have experienced on any cruise line so far. Milind also asked if we wanted any spirits or wine in our suite. We requested Prosecco (for Rickee) and a bottle of Canadian Club (for me). The pull-out refrigerator drawer located under the desk is a genius design and can be stocked with your favorite beverages, all complimentary.

*Prosecco was placed in our pull-out refrigerator drawer*

Overall, we would rate the Sapphire Veranda Suite a 9 out of 10.

FOOD AND DINING

Crystal Symphony offers guests a variety of dining choices. Crystal food quality remains at the highest levels of luxury cruise line dining.

The Marketplace Buffet

The Marketplace Buffet is open every day for breakfast and lunch. However, there is no dinner service at this venue. Marketplace is one of our favorite buffet restaurants at sea because of the food quality and variety, great table service and excellent seating options. The only nit we have to pick with Marketplace is that it is self-serve. We would much prefer that the crew be the only ones handling the utensils. We feel it is just more sanitary. To Crystal’s credit, there was a crew member stationed at the hand sanitizer machine at the entrance to Marketplace to be sure every guest sanitized their hands before entering.

Highlights of the buffet are the fresh boiled shrimp and the crab claws served every day with a delicious and spicy cocktail sauce.

*Shrimp and crab claws with cocktail sauce*

The food selection and quality is well above average for a cruise ship buffet with mostly hits and very few misses. One day they offered an Asian-themed buffet and it was the best Asian buffet I have ever experienced on a cruise ship. Servers are on hand at Marketplace to take drink orders and, of course, cocktails, wine, spirits and soft drinks are all included on Crystal.

Guests can dine indoors on the port or starboard side at Marketplace and there are serving lines on both sides of the ship. On port days, with many guests off the ship at lunchtime, they may only open the starboard-side serving lines. There are plenty of two-top tables, many with window views and there is seating aft for those who prefer to dine al fresco.

*Sushi and sashimi on the Asian-themed buffet*

Waterside Restaurant

Waterside is Crystal’s main dining room (or MDR). The restaurant is located on Deck 5 midship, across from Reception. This restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day with lunch and dinner menus that change each day. We only dined here once at breakfast and once for dinner and the food and service were very good. They offer an extensive breakfast menu, which includes steak and eggs (one of my favorites). There is no charge to dine at Waterside.

Umi Uma

Umi Uma (formerly Silk Road) is Crystal’s Japanese/Sushi restaurant by Nobu Matsuhisa. It is recommended that guests make reservations to dine here as it is a very popular dining spot. Or, guests can simply show up and sit at the sushi bar, space permitting. Every guest receives one complimentary meal at Umi Uma during the cruise. Additional visits will come with a $50 per person cover charge.

The sushi and sashimi at Umi Uma are next level and are clearly the best we have had on any cruise ship, or land restaurant for that matter. Rickee continues to order the Miso Glazed Cod, an Umi Uma signature dish. And, in my opinion, the Grilled Australian “WAYGU” Beef Filet is the best cut of meat on the ship.

Osteria d’ Ovidio

Osteria (formerly Prego) is Crystal’s Italian restaurant. As is the case with Umi Uma, guests receive one complimentary meal here and there is a $50/pp cover charge for subsequent visits. This is the second time we have dined at Osteria, the first being on Crystal Serenity. We were underwhelmed with our meal and the service at the Osteria on Symphony and felt like the experience on Serenity was better. My lamb chops were a little overcooked, and lacked seasoning. They would have benefitted from a heavily-seasoned breadcrumb crust to add flavor and texture. Rickee’s duck breast looked more like a dessert than a main course. The flavors of both dishes were okay, but nothing special.

Even though we were dining with a group of eight, we felt the service was extremely slow. The waiters were very pleasant, but food was taking a long time to get to the table. We were seated at 7:00pm and we barely made it out in time for the 9:30 show.

We are not exactly sure how the menu at Osteria reflects what Americans think of as “Italian fare”. If not for the selection of pasta dishes, you would think you were dining in a continental cuisine restaurant. And, no Tiramisu on the dessert menu. Seriously?

We long for the good old days of Prego with the delicious Cream of Mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, the Beef Carpaccio drizzled with olive oil and balsamic glaze and the wonderful seasoned-breadcrumb lamb chops. There, I said it.

Beefbar

Beefbar is the newest specialty dining restaurant on Crystal ships replacing Tastes, which was one of our favorite dining venues on any cruise ship. Beefbar originated in Monte Carlo and the brand has expanded with restaurants all over the world. But, if you want to experience Beefbar at sea, it is only available on Crystal ships.

Beefbar is open for lunch and dinner with reservations highly recommended for dinner. The restaurant is located on Deck 11 and has a very open and spacious feel with unrestricted views of the ocean port side. The atmosphere here is much more casual and relaxed than Umi Uma, Osteria d’ Ovidio, or even Waterside.

As a confirmed carnivore, I was not surprised that we dined at Beefbar four times for dinner.

While the menu can be a bit confusing, it is, nonetheless, packed with a lot of delicious offerings. It is hard to tell the main courses from the starters. We found ourselves just ordering a few dishes and figuring it out once they arrived.

In our four visits, we had the opportunity to try most of the offerings there. Our favorites were the Super Kale salad, Angus Beef tacos, Bao Buns, Tuna Ceviche, Mashed Potatoes and the Beef Filet. I tried all three steak offerings, and the filet is the way to go. The Avocado Hummus and Rib Eye Ham were our least favorites.

If your wallet is overstuffed with winnings from the casino, you may wish to order one of the optional Waygu steaks on offer here. That massive bone-in Tomahawk will set you back $540. Even the humble 8oz Rib Cap is $90. The Waygu on display definitely looked like an upgrade in marbling over the standard steak offerings at Beefbar, but they did not look like A5 Japanese Waygu to me. They looked more like Australian or USA Waygu, but with the Japanese A5 price tag.

*Upgrade your steak to Waygu at Beefbar*

Service at Beefbar was excellent (as it is all over the ship) and the time between courses was not as long as we experienced at the other restaurants on board. Food delivery was very crisp.

We did not try the lunch menu at Beefbar, but it looked very appealing. We just could not wrench ourselves away from Marketplace which opened at noon compared to Beefbar which opened at 1:00.

There was a bit of confusion about dining at Beefbar. We were initially led to believe that, as with Umi Uma and Osteria, guests could only dine once at Beefbar on a complimentary basis with a $50/pp cover charge for subsequent visits. Oh, contraire! We discovered that there are no additional charges to dine at Beefbar multiple times! Hence, our four visits to Beefbar for dinner.

Hands down, Beefbar is our favorite dining venue on Crystal and will be the first place we visit when we return.

The Bistro

The Bistro is a small cafe located midship on Deck 6 overlooking the Crystal Cove. This is the best place to get morning coffee. I would visit The Bistro every morning with my laptop to do my daily blog and enjoy my Cappucino or Americano.

The Bistro offers take-away coffee service from 6:00am to 9:00am. They have a few pastries that guests can grab and go. From 9am to 11:30am, they offer a very nice buffet of fresh fruit, pastries, cereals, yogurt, etc. for what they call a “late-risers” breakfast. The highlight, in my opinion, of The Bistro are the Portugese Custard Tarts. They are deadly delicious and I have never seen these on any other cruise ship. Rickee really liked the large muffins in various flavors.

Room Service

Crystal offers guests 24-hour complimentary room service. There is a room service menu with a nice selection of salads, soups, sandwiches, main courses and desserts. For breakfast, there is an expanded room service menu that offers just about everything offered for breakfast at Waterside restaurant. And, for dinner, you can also order from the Waterside dinner menu from 6:30pm to 9:30pm.

We decided to try room service one evening at dinner time. We placed a call to our butler, Milind, who took our order and arrived about 30 minutes later with our meal. A linen tablecloth and napkins, along with silverware and every other table setup you would find if dining at Waterside, is delivered to your suite.

*Room service is very special on Crystal*

Best of all, the food was all delivered hot and was delicious. We love enjoying dinner in our suite on Crystal. When our meal was over, we called Milind who returned to our suite and removed the dishes.

Afternoon Tea

Many cruise lines, even some luxury cruise lines, have done away with Afternoon Tea. Some cruises still offer it, but at an additional cost. Crystal offers one of the nicest Afternoon Tea services at sea every day from 3:30pm to 4:30pm in Palm Court (Deck 11 forward). Several tables are set with elegant china cups, saucers and plates.

A tea menu offers a wide selection of teas from around the world. My favorite is Earl Gray. Rickee prefers Forest Symphony.

*Delicious sweets, scones and finger sandwiches*

Gone is the Mozart Tea Service that Crystal was famous for but, on one day of our cruise, they did offer a special Chocolate Tea Service with an extravagant selection of chocolate cakes, tarts, cookies, etc. Each afternoon, along with our tea and treats, we were entertained by music performed by either a violinist or piano player.

Of the cruise lines that still offer Afternoon Tea, Crystal offers one of the best, in our opinion.

Trident Grill/Scoops Ice Cream

Trident Grill is Crystal’s casual grill where you can grab a burger, a sandwich or even a pizza. Trident is open for late riser’s breakfast from 10am to 11am, lunch from 11:30am to 6:00pm. Below is a snapshot of Trident Grill’s menu:

CHICKEN CAESAR WRAP • GRILLED HAMBURGER' GRILLED CHEESEBURGER' • GRILLED GARDEN BURGER GRILLED SALMON BURGER' • GRILLED CHICKEN BURGER • "IMPOSSIBLE" VEGAN BURGER • CHINOIS CHICKEN SALAD • GRILLED HAM & CHEESE SANDWICH • GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH • GRILLED REUBEN SANDWICH • GRILLEO MINUTE STEAK SANDWICH • GRILLED TUNA MELT • HOT DOG • CHILI CON CARNE SOUP OF THE DAY • FRESHLY BAKED PIZZA MARGHERITA

FRENCH FRIES • SWEET POTATO FRIES - CRISPY FRIED ONION RINGS

Trident Grill is located on Deck 11 port side, just forward of Beefbar. There is seating on both port and starboard sides of the ship and most of the tables are positioned next to large windows with great ocean views.

Of course, I had to give Trident Grill my cheeseburger evaluation, and overall, it was quite good. The meat patty was thick, flavorful and nicely cooked Medium Well. The bun was fresh and soft and the burger comes with tomato, pickle, onion and lettuce. I would say the burger itself is better than I have had on other luxury cruise lines. I actually had the cheeseburger twice on this cruise. A small tray of condiments is placed on each table with ketchup, Dijon mustard and mayonnaise..

The French Fries were served hot and crispy and kudos to Crystal for offering onion rings. I LOVE onion rings and, while these were just so-so, I appreciate the effort since most cruise lines don’t offer them at all. Actually, I don’t think I have ever had a memorable onion ring on any cruise.

Unfortunately, the burger is where our praise for Trident Grill ends. Rickee found the hot dog to be very tough and hard to cut with a knife, but even the hot dog was better than the pizza. I am an admitted pizza snob and I have to say that the Margherita Pizza offered at Trident, while cooked to order, lacked flavor and resembled a frozen pizza. I ate only two slices and left the rest on the plate.

Adjacent to Trident Grill is Scoops Ice Cream bar where you can get soft-serve ice cream or a selection of Badiani gelato flavors. We did not try the soft-serve, but did try the gelato and we thought it was good. Honestly, once you have had gelato in Rome or Venice, nothing really compares. Scoops is open from noon to 6pm daily.

The Vintage Room

The Vintage Room offers guided pairings and dinners highlighting the vast selection of wines in the ship’s onboard cellar. This intimate, innovative concept offers guests an education in fine wine and cuisine, allowing them to gain privileged insights into the art of enology. In addition to daytime tastings and discussions, guests may enjoy a variety of private wine-themed lunches and dinners by special arrangement with the Head Sommelier. Events enjoyed in the Vintage Room come with an additional charge.

You can think of The Vintage Room sort of like a Chef’s Table experience on other cruise lines. We did not have the opportunity to experience The Vintage Room on this cruise.

ENTERTAINMENT & ACTIVITIES

Entertainment

Crystal offers a variety of entertainment on Symphony. On our sailing, there was a show every evening at 9:30pm. Admittedly, we did not attend every show. However, we did attend two “production” shows featuring the two main vocalists and six dancers. There was also a live band backing up some recorded tracks, which always adds impact to production shows. We felt like the band, the vocalists and the dancers were all very good. And, while there is a fairly large stage for this venue, the Galaxy Lounge is, as the name suggests, a large “show lounge” and not a theater like you find on larger ships.

The Galaxy Lounge suffers from average acoustics and we felt, at times, like the mixing of vocals was way off. There were times we could barely hear the singers over the blaring loud music. I am not sure if it is was an issue with the acoustics of the lounge, or with whomever was running the mixing panel. It also seemed like the sound levels were clipping. Again, the performers were great, but the venue sound system needs some attention.

We also attended a show in the smaller Starlite Club (below), and experienced the same issues with audio quality. That said, the seating is very comfortable with good sight lines in both lounges. And, honestly, the entertainment is better than you would expect on a ship with a 602 guest capacity.

In addition to the ship’s singers and dancers, there were additional featured headliners including musicians, singers and a comedian.

A highlight of our cruise was Crystal’s 35th Anniversary White Party, hosted by Cruise Director, Vicki Van Tassel, and held in Crystal Plaza, Deck 5 Midship. For this special event, guests dressed in all white and were served cocktails and canapés and treated to performances by most of the ship’s entertainers. Guests danced until late and an amazing time was had by all.

As for lounge entertainment, we enjoyed piano music by Dan Davies in Avenue Saloon. However, once again, the sound levels were too high to enjoy conversation while the music was playing. There was entertainment in Crystal Cove (Deck 5), Palm Court, and Starlite Club. I should point out that entertainment will vary from one cruise to the next depending on the itinerary and/or the number of guests on board.

As for daytime entertainment, each day begins with the 6am Symphony Today show on your in-suite TV hosted by Cruise Director, Vicki Van Tassel. These shows are provided on demand if you prefer to watch later in the day. Guests can also find replays of any Enrichment Lectures they may have missed during the cruise. The onboard Enrichment lectures and lecturers were excellent

*Vicki Van Tassel interviews former Crystal Captains and Cruise Director, Paul McFarland for Crystal’s 35th Anniversary*

Crystal Symphony guests can visit the Hollywood Theater on Deck 6 to enjoy a movie complete with popcorn. The seating in the Hollywood Theater is stadium-style, just like the movie theaters on land, and is a great place to catch a recent release or a classic.

You can also visit the newly added Le Casino de Monte Carlo. For us, this certainly fits under the heading of entertainment because that was all we gained while we were there! The casino is small but does have a Blackjack table, roulette wheel and several slot machines. On our voyage, the casino was rarely open due to regulations about having to be a certain number of miles out into open ocean.

Activities

Guests had plenty of activities to keep them busy. Daily offerings included:

Many types of exercise classes
Arts and Crafts
Computer classes
Bridge lessons
Pickleball
Golf clinics conducted by resident pro golfer Andy Thuney
A golf net complete with clubs and golf balls
Crystal’s Library complete with Librarian on site
Dance classes with Dance Duo Mark and Bernadett
Bingo
Wellness presentations
Shuffleboard
Walking around the teak Promenade Deck that completely circles the ship
Trivia (sea days only)
Visiting the Aurora Spa and Salon
Relaxing by the pool or in the hot tub
Working out in the Fitness Center/Gym

It is safe to say that you will never be bored on a Crystal sailing.

Cruise Director

All entertainment and activities on board are under the direction of the Cruise Director. Our Cruise Director on this sailing was Vicki Van Tassel. We sailed with Vicki on a different cruise line a few years ago and were so impressed by her energy and sense of humor that, when we learned she had moved to Crystal, we specifically looked for a sailing where she would be on board.

We wanted to include Vicki in our new “Interview” series on our YouTube channel and she graciously agreed to sit down with us for an interview where we learned about her history in the cruise business. After 148 cruises, we have only had a handful of cruise directors make a lasting impression on us, and Vicki is at the top of our list.

ITINERARY

We have been to the Mediterranean more times than I can count. What was intriguing about this particular itinerary is that we got to visit several ports that we have never been to before. In all, we visited four new ports (in bold below).

We collect refrigerator magnets from all around the world. So, whenever we visit a new port, we like to do some exploring on our own and hunt down a magnet to add to our collection. We also have an extensive collection of Christmas ornaments from around the world. Our Christmas tree each year serves as a reminder of all the amazing places we have visited. While some call this magnet thing a hobby, I think it may be more of an obsession!

*Currently, over 275 magnets in our collection*

We often will skip cruise ship shore excursions to explore on our own. On this cruise, we only did two ship’s excursions. The first was a visit to Sarzana, Italy, ($130pp) for what we thought would be an olive oil tasting. As with most excursions, which we refer to as ABC tours (Another Beautiful Church), we visit the church below as part of the tour. We also visited a fort and then walked down the main street of Sarzana.

What we thought would be an olive oil tasting turned out to be a complimentary coffee and pastry at a local pasticceria. We are not sure if they changed the tasting because we were visiting on a Sunday, but one other couple also thought it was supposed to be an olive oil tasting. Nevertheless, it got us off the ship for a few hours and we had plenty of time on our own after the coffee and pastry to explore the town. As it was Sunday, most of the shops were closed.

The most interesting part of the excursion was getting a chance to try Italian hot chocolate, which is nothing like American hot chocolate. This is like a cup of melted dark chocolate that is bitter and eaten with a spoon. Throw in a packet of sugar, and you have a delicious cup of chocolate soup.

*Coffee and pastries in a local pasticceria*

Our second excursion was “Rome On Your Own” ($70 pp) which was basically a motor coach ride from the port of Civitavecchia to central Rome. The cost for a private car/taxi to Rome is about $200 each way, so it was a good value at $70 for the 90-minute drive. We had a few hours to explore Rome on foot, but you really need more than a few hours to see everything Rome has to offer. We have been to Rome a few times and the best way to see Rome is to spend three or four days at the beginning or end of a cruise. Nevertheless, we had a chance to see a few sights that brought back memories of past visits. But, it was extremely hot on our visit and, after walking for three hours, the heat and the crowds really wore us out.

Crystal offers a complimentary shuttle service from the port into most of the cities/towns we visited, making it easy to go into town and explore on your own. On many cruise lines, you would have to pay for a taxi or a bus to get from the port into town. This is a great service that is often overlooked.

Demographics

On this particular voyage, there were more young people (late 30s and 40s) than we have seen on our previous Crystal cruises. There were even a few children onboard. Perhaps this was a result of generational travel wherein grandparents bring their children and grandchildren along on the voyage. Of course there were many older people (60s and 70+) who cruised often and were experienced travelers, many of whom were loyal Crystal cruisers. We also talked to several people who wanted to experience a luxury cruise product for the first time and had chosen Crystal.

HITS AND MISSES

As with any cruise, cruise line or cruise ship, there are things that we really like and some areas where we see room for improvement.

Hits

Polished and professional service from a friendly crew
Vicki Van Tassel is our favorite Cruise Director
Resort casual dress code with formal nights only on sea days
Very smooth sailing. We never felt any motion
Umi Uma is the best Japanese restaurant we have experienced at sea
Beefbar restaurant
Marketplace buffet is our favorite of any luxury cruise line
Best canapés at sea
Complimentary shuttle service in port
A true Promenade Deck

Misses

No phone app
Pizza needs improvement
Osteria Italian Restaurant
Confusion over specialty dining
Standard WiFi is very slow

Final Assessment

Crystal Symphony’s sister ship, Serenity, was recently added to our list of our Five Favorite Cruise ships of all time. After this sailing aboard Crystal Symphony, it is safe to say that it shares all of the things we loved about Crystal Serenity. Since our first sailing aboard Crystal Symphony in 2011, the company has had three different owners. In spite of that, Crystal has been able to retain all of its original charm and appeal for those who seek a true luxury experience. There are rumors of some new hardware being added to the Crystal fleet. We can’t wait to see what the future holds for this amazing cruise line.

*Our first sailing on Crystal Symphony was in 2011*

John & Sandra Nowlan 12/14/24 John & Sandra Nowlan 12/14/24

A Mississippi River Cruise with American Cruise Lines

We sailed down the lower Mississippi River with American Cruise Lines

By John and Sandra Nowlan

We knew there’d be some great music as we sailed down the Mississippi from Memphis on one of American Cruise Lines new, modern riverboats. We didn’t expect the Southern food and hospitality to be so good nor, as Canadians, to appreciate American history and culture so much.

The music began as soon as we entered the Memphis airport shuttle bus. The unmistakable voice of Elvis Presley singing “Love Me Tender” drifted down the aisle from hidden speakers. The bus Shaked, Rattled and Rolled as it took us to the Guest House at Graceland, a four star, 450 room hotel adjacent to Elvis’ Graceland mansion. American Cruise Lines offers guests an optional two night stay at the comfortable Guest House with free access to the mansion and the separate, vast collection of Presley airplanes, cars, motorcycles, costumes and gold records. We could see why the Graceland complex is the most visited private home in the United States.

Walls filled with Elvis performance outfits

En route to the riverboat, the cruise line gave us a bus tour of Memphis with stops at Beale Street (home of the Blues), Sun Records (where Elvis made his first recordings) and the Lorraine Motel (now part of The National Civil Rights Museum) where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in 1968. We felt a strong sense of sadness as we gazed at the balcony of Room 306.

Our first glance of our Mississippi riverboat was from atop a levee in Memphis. We headed down the steep ramp to board the American Melody through its unusual flipped-up bow. Riverboats on the Mississippi have a unique challenge. With flood-control levees, some as high as 50 feet, all along the Mississippi, American Cruise Lines always carry golf carts to help the elderly and infirm safely navigate the challenging slopes.

In 2018 American Cruise Lines, the largest river and small ship cruise line in the United States, introduced the first modern riverboats in North America. American Melody was built in Maryland in 2021 with a maximum capacity of just 175 guests and an average room size of 350 square feet. Our “Veranda Suite” was 405 square feet and felt more like a spacious hotel room but with better, ever-changing views. We particularly appreciated the comfortable, king size bed and luxurious sheets and pillows. There were plenty of power and electronic outlets, high quality internet, much more drawer space than we’d ever need, very efficient temperature control, a 50 inch TV, and a large bathroom with soft, fluffy towels and two separate nozzles in the shower. We weren’t surprized when we were told that the ACL fleet of 20 riverboats (operating in 35 states) has the largest average guest rooms of any cruise line.

With the failure of American Queen Voyages, the only current competition for American Cruise Lines on the second longest river in the U.S. (the Missouri is about 100 miles longer) is the Viking Mississippi. This cruise ship is much larger than the ACL boats, accommodating up to 386 guests. The Hotel Manager on American Melody told us that the smaller boats of his company are better suited for the Mississippi because occasional low water levels can prevent the bigger, deeper draft of large boats from operating. American Cruise Lines riverboats have never missed a scheduled sailing due to water depth.

Finally heading downriver with a full passenger load (mostly Americans but with a smattering of Canadians, Brits and Australians) we were impressed with the layout of American Melody. Its four story atrium and public rooms never seemed crowded. On Deck 3 forward the large bright River Lounge was used for port briefings, trivia, excellent enrichment lectures and entertainment. The smaller indoor/outdoor Sky Lounge at the back of Deck 4 was a snackers dream, offering freshly baked cookies, 24 hour snacks, a wide selection of drinks, excellent coffee and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches. Plenty of loungers and a wrap around walking track were available on the full length top deck so guests could enjoy the passing scenery, including heavily laden barges pushed by strangely-named tow boats, semi tropical vegetation and small communities. When we reached Baton Rouge, heavy industry tended to dominate the shoreline.

Meals were a special treat on American Melody. As expected, emphasis was on Southern U.S. dishes, especially Creole, Cajun, even a noontime pig roast. We loved our Cornmeal Crusted Catfish with Collard Greens, Gulf Coast Blue Crabcakes, Sea Bass with Sauteed Crawfish and Jambalaya. The fish was particularly tasty. The Hotel Manager told us all seafood is fresh, never frozen. Lunch and dinner included complimentary wine, beer and spirits as well as a good selection of non-alcohol beer and wine. In the evening, white tablecloths graced the tables.

Cornmeal crusted catfish with collard greens

The serving staff on American Melody was young and energetic. By U.S. law, all staff must be American because ACL riverboats do not visit a foreign country. Although friendly and well-meaning we found the restaurant staff to be less efficient and well-trained as the primarily Filipino and Indonesian staff on international river, lake and ocean ships. Hotel Manager Glenn Taylor told us that while his staff may not be as polished as the international competition, they’re always pleasant and accommodating. He added that this is often the first full time job for young servers and he’s delighted that so many have used the riverboat experience as a stepping stone to a career in hospitality.

We were impressed with the quality of evening entertainment on American Melody. The talented performers were better than musical acts we’ve enjoyed on many European river cruises. Our favorites included Mississippi Marshall, a master of the Blues who played a mean guitar (we bought his CD), Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers (a three man band with female vocalist) and the Banjo Cats, a husband and wife team who have mastered several instruments.

The tours (most were complimentary) were outstanding. Who knew that tiny Cleveland, Mississippi, is the home of the impressive Grammy Museum, highlighting the amazing musical talent in southern states and around the Mississippi Delta? A stop in Vicksburg allowed us to visit a private Civil War museum with its huge collection of artifacts from that troubled time as well as the unusual Coca-Cola Museum in the building where Coke was first bottled in the U.S.

In Vidalia, Louisiana we visited a cotton plantation where we were able to hand pick some fluffy cotton, explore a historic cotton gin, then observe in a modern cotton gin the process of cleaning and bundling in 500 pound bales for transport. Along the way we were also able to visit several southern antebellum mansions that resembled a scene from Gone With the Wind. Standouts were The Myrtles in St. Francisville, Louisiana, and Oak Alley in Vacherie, Louisiana.

Oak Alley antebellum mansion in Louisiana

Our highlight in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was a visit to the capital building that dominates the skyline. At 450 feet it’s the tallest state capital in the United States. The panoramic view of the city and meandering Mississippi from the observation deck is spectacular. Built in the early 30s during the Depression, it was a project masterminded by controversial Governor and then Senator Huey Long. He was assassinated inside the building in 1935 where there’s now a memorial. We ended the day relaxing on our balcony admiring a magical pastel sunset.

Louisiana is well known for its plentiful bayous, slow moving marshy waterways. On our last day aboard American Melody we signed up for a tour called, “Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure”. Adventure indeed! Aboard a 40 passenger, flat-bottom aluminum boat, our captain took us through the narrow bayous where alligators were plentiful, either lounging on the shoreline or swimming alongside us (our captain even fed a few without losing his hand). In addition, we met many playful racoons and a family of not-so-playful wild hogs.

A small alligator on the Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure

The guest mix aboard American Melody was interesting. The personable and efficient Cruise Director, Colin Hietikko, told us that many of his American guests had traveled the world in their younger years and now wanted to stay closer to home with something safe and accessible. Older couples were certainly the prime demographic on our cruise with an average age of more than 70. But Glenn Taylor, the hotel manager, said that was slowly changing as the modern, all-inclusive riverboats in the American Cruise Lines fleet were beginning to attract more young people. That, along with fascinating itineraries, is a recipe for continued success.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 10/19/23 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 10/19/23

Virgin Voyages Scarlet Lady

We spend 5 nights aboard Scarlet Lady in the Caribbean

By Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson

We spent 5 nights aboard Scarlet Lady on our very first Virgin Voyages cruise.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 9/27/23 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 9/27/23

Crystal Serenity Canada Great Lakes 2023

We spend 8 nights aboard Crystal Serenity

By Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson

We spent 8 nights aboard Crystal Cruises’ Crystal Serenity

John & Sandra Nowlan 8/15/23 John & Sandra Nowlan 8/15/23

Viking Octantis. A Great Lakes Expedition Cruise

By John and Sandra Nowlan

From the exterior it doesn’t look like a typical expedition ship. But Viking Octantis combines all the elements of a luxury expedition cruise experience with unique features that make it stand out.

Expedition ships typically store their Zodiacs outside on upper decks. On Octantis the 17 inflatable craft are kept in a huge lower deck area called The Hangar that also houses 16 kayaks, two Special Operations Boats (comfortable, 12 passenger military-style speedboats) and two compact yellow submarines. These spherical submersibles can hold six guests in comfortable seats with a 270 degree view. Quite unlike the Titan and its ill-fated Titanic dive, these two submarines, named John and Paul, rarely go more than 100 feet below the surface but are designed to handle depths of 1,000 feet. On Octantis’ sister ship, Polaris, the two submarines are called George and Ringo.

Viking’s Special Operations Boat in Lake Superior

Viking Octantis is ice certified for polar exploration and will regularly take guests to the Arctic and Antarctic. But our cruise was an unusual and memorable expedition to some remote areas on the Great Lakes, sailing from Milwaukee, Wisconsin to Thunder Bay, Ontario.

Milwaukee, little known to cruisers, is a delightful city with our historic downtown hotel, The Pfister (dating from 1893), located close to some fine restaurants and the excellent Public Market.

Boarding Viking Octantis the next day we were impressed by the muted and functional Scandinavian design and furnishings as well as space allocation. The ship’s capacity is just 378 guests but the generous public spaces could easily handle more. The many lounges, in particular, were stunning with cozy chairs, electric fireplaces and bookshelves stocked with fiction and non-fiction titles guests could borrow.

Our room was on the smallish size at 220 square feet, but was well laid out with walk-in closets, a very comfortable bed and a bathroom with a generous sized shower. Instead of a traditional balcony (often impractical in frigid polar regions) we loved the “Nordic Balcony”, floor to ceiling windows that half lowered at the touch of a button. Fresh air, a great view and extra space!

Like all expedition ships the emphasis aboard Viking Octantis is on science, learning and exploration. Instead of a casino, pool games or lavish entertainment the ship has two science labs with opportunities for hands-on experiments plus a staff of naturalists for questions and guidance on excursions. With the rich geology of the Canadian Shield around Georgian Bay and Lake Superior a disappointment for us was the lack of a trained geologist to discuss the extraordinary rock formations.

Releasing the weather balloon from the top deck

Science was on full display when Octantis, one of only two commercial ships in the world to work with the U.S. Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, released a helium weather balloon with instruments from the top deck. Data were collected as it rose almost 20 miles into the morning sky.

Being a Norwegian owned ship we expected a fine spa area and weren’t disappointed. All guests had free access to the well-equipped gym, the hydrotherapy pool, heated loungers, a covered open air hot tub called a Badestamp plus a series of Nordic spa rooms with a sauna, steam enclosure, a multi-nozzle rain room, a water bucket room and even a chilly snow grotto for the very brave. For an extra cost, guests could enjoy a manicure, pedicure or massage.

Expedition cruises build up an appetite and Viking lived up to its reputation for fine cuisine. For a relatively small ship the choices were extraordinary. The main dining room called The Restaurant and the excellent World Café buffet had similar menus each day but The Restaurant, with white tablecloths and fine service, was more formal. Many senior officers seemed to get their dinner at The Grill, close to the buffet and offering nightly lobster tails and a selection of top grade steaks at no extra cost for all guests. Wine and beer are complimentary at lunch and dinner.

Creative open faced sandwiches at Mamsen

Many guests loved the Italian specialties at Manfredi’s or the Deck 5 sushi bar. Our favorite venue for lunch was Mamsen’s, named for the mother of Viking’s chairman. Her recipes for Norwegian open faced sandwiches and decadent desserts were inspired.

Expedition cruises focus on non-traditional itineraries and Viking delivered. The Great Lakes is a relatively new region for cruising but it’s the largest area of fresh water in the world and was formed at the end of the last ice age, 10,000 years ago. From an industrial area of Milwaukee (city officials are planning a better cruise terminal) we sailed north on Lake Michigan, then under the Mackinac Bridge, the largest suspension bridge in the western hemisphere, connecting Michigan’s lower and upper peninsulas. Our first stop was nearby Mackinac Island, a unique tourist destination with a 1780 fort, the luxurious Grand Hotel with the world’s longest front porch (660 feet), 13 fudge shops and a law banning vehicular traffic. The island is truly a step back in time as “rush hour” involves bicycles, horse drawn carriages and riders on horseback.

Rush Hour on car free Mackinac Island Michigan

From Mackinac Island we entered Canadian waters on Lake Huron and then Georgian Bay for three stops. The huge bay is sometimes called the sixth Great Lake because of its size (5800 square miles – 15,000 square kilometers). Tours were available to hike wilderness trails or board a Zodiac, kayak or a Special Operations Boat to explore the rugged, pristine shorelines for animal sightings or the dramatic igneous and metamorphic rock outcroppings. On a visit to the town of Parry Sound, Ontario, and nearby Killbear Provincial Park we were inside the UNESCO Georgian Bay Biosphere Reserve with its 30,000 islands, the world’s largest freshwater archipelago.

We also visited isolated Killarney Mountain Lodge for a Great Lakes fish fry and the even more remote Okeechobee Lodge, accessible only by boat. It was once a popular holiday destination for Chicago mobsters.

Remote Killarney Mountain Lodge in Georgian Bay

Leaving Georgian Bay and Lake Huron we headed west towards Lake Superior. A cruise highlight for many Octantis guests was our entry into the Soo Locks located between the U.S. and Canadian cities of Sault Ste. Marie. This engineering marvel, dating back to the mid 1800s, bypasses the river and rapids joining Lake Superior to Lake Huron. Operated by the U.S. Corps of Engineers, it uses only gates and gravity to raise or lower about 10,000 ships a year the 21 feet differential between the two lakes.

Our first stop in Lake Superior was to the tiny north shore community of Silver Islet, once the location of the world’s most valuable silver mine. It’s now home to Ontario cottagers who embrace solar power and live totally off the grid. The old fashioned general store does a lively business with tourists.

Silver Islet Ontario Solar panels for all

From Silver Islet it was just a short sail to Thunder Bay, our final stop on an extraordinary Great Lakes adventure. This former fur trading post now has a population of about 110,000 and honors the past at Fort William Historical Park, a living museum recreating the early 1800s with costumed interpreters and a marvelous collection of birch bark canoes.

Birch bark canoes at Fort William Historical Park

Instead of shuttling us directly to the airport as most cruise lines would do, Viking gave us an unexpected and welcome city tour, a visit to the Historical Park, a stop at dramatic Kakabeka Falls (the second highest in Ontario) and time to admire the impressive Terry Fox Memorial and Lookout. The Memorial, adjacent to the Trans-Canada Highway, marks the exact spot where cancer activist Terry Fox, with a prosthetic leg, was forced to abandon his coast to coast, cross Canada run for cancer research. Sixty countries and millions of participants now take part in the annual Terry Fox Run.

Viking has become a significant player on the global cruise scene with a fleet of 90 river, ocean and expedition ships. All share Scandinavian heritage and interior design elements. But its two Polar Class 6 ships, Viking Octantis (named for the southern polar star) and Polaris (the North Star) are unique and like their names, have become stars in the fast growing expedition cruise market.

John and Sandra Nowlan are travel and food writers based in Halifax.

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan

John & Sandra Nowlan 4/28/23 John & Sandra Nowlan 4/28/23

Caviar for Breakfast. A Regent Ultra-Luxury Cruise.

By John and Sandra Nowlan

As much Atlantic Canadian lobster as you want. Prime filet mignon on the menu each night. Unlimited caviar at Sunday brunch. Just three of the culinary indulgences on a cruise line with the motto, “Luxury Refined”.

Regent holds a unique place in the world of cruising. The high end brand of parent Norwegian Cruise Line, its five ships are in the rarified ultra-luxury category but Regent stands out by offering a complete all-inclusive package. Included in the price are a spacious suite with balcony, all meals (including specialty restaurants), drinks (including beer, wine, spirits and cocktails), tours (with a wide variety of choices in each port), gratuities, airport and hotel transfers, even laundry and pressing. In some categories first class flights and pre-cruise hotels are included.

Janice Davidson. Regent’s VP for Creative and Brand Management, told us her greatest marketing challenge is price. “We’re trying to educate people about what comes with all inclusive,” she said. “With our single up front cost, guests could actually pay less than on other lines.”

As soon as we boarded Seven Seas Splendor, Regent’s newest ship, for a week long Caribbean cruise from Miami the luxury and service stood out. Walking around with welcome champagne in hand, the 46,000 square feet of fine Italian marble on walls and floors and more than 500 stunning chandeliers created an ambience unlike any we’ve experienced in 25 years of cruising. The ship, launched in 2020, has a capacity of just 750 guests, all in balcony suites ranging from an impressive 307 to more than 4000 square feet. The crew of 550 provides the best staff to guest ratio at sea. Their friendliness, training and attention to guest needs were evident all week.

Italian marble throughput the ship. The entrance to the main restaurant

We were in one of the smaller suites but were impressed with the layout and generous storage spaces including a walk-in closet. The long couch and convenient work desk were separated from the bed area by privacy blackout curtains while the balcony with its generous table and two cushioned wicker chairs was one of the largest we’ve ever seen. The bed itself was extremely comfortable with high thread count sheets and excellent adjustable reading lights. There were several convenient USB and power outlets. The thermostat was controlled by up and down – warmer and cooler – arrows rather than an actual temperature setting. The small fridge could be filled with whatever complimentary drinks we wanted. The marble lined bathroom had just one smallish sink but a large shower area with both a regular shower head and a rainforest-style shower.

Our suite was near the back of the ship so we could occasionally hear engine rumble, especially when getting underway or docking. But we think the general room soundproofing is excellent since the ship was full and we didn’t hear a sound from any of our neighbors.

Rooms are cleaned and refreshed twice a day with newspaper summaries (from the USA, Canada, Britain and other countries) put on the bed each evening along with tomorrow’s schedule (the spacious library includes a daily, full edition of the New York Times). The large, high resolution TV had many free movies available but broadcast channel choices were very limited.

One negative aspect of not just the suites but throughout the ship was the poor internet service. Regular, free but slow internet is available for all guests. We booked the premium, extra cost package but it was only marginally better. Email and YouTube worked fairly well but posting photos on Facebook was not possible. The technical head on the ship told us that satellite improvements are coming.

Regent continues to excel in its culinary program. The Hotel General Manager, Anatoli Makaev, told us that food costs, per person, are the highest at sea. Regent, he said, is spending three times more for food than before the pandemic. Unlike other lines, there have been no cutbacks in quality or quantity. Chefs continued to get paid during the Covid years and their commitment to guest satisfaction is evident.

For a ship with fewer than 800 passengers, the restaurant and menu choices were remarkable. Every evening in the main dining room, Compass Rose, guests could choose from an “Always Available” menu (from Alaska Crab to New Zealand lamb) or the daily specials including the Executive Chef’s six course “Gourmet Tasting Menu”. A healthy Spa menu was also available. Good quality red, white, rosé or sparkling wines were offered without extra cost each day, even non-alcoholic wines if you wished. Three uniquely decorated specialty restaurants offer French cuisine (Chartreuse), Asian fare (Pan Pacific) or Steaks and Seafood (Prime 7).

Alaska crab appetizer in the main Compass Rose dining room

The Chartreuse French specialty restaurant

The large buffet restaurant on Deck 11, La Veranda, has an excellent selection of breakfast and lunch items. White tablecloths are standard throughout the area (most unusual for a cruise ship buffet) and are a classy touch in the evening when much of La Veranda becomes a fine Italian restaurant, Sette Mari. Coffee quality in the buffet was only fair but outstanding brews were always available at the 5th deck Coffee Connection.

Seven Seas Splendor has a well equipped fitness center and a Spa at the stern of the ship. We discovered the uncrowded Infinity Swimming Pool as part of the Spa and preferred it to the large, main pool on Deck 11.

The Infinity Pool at the stern of the ship

Splendor’s entertainment was, as expected, of a high caliber with a dozen talented singers and dancers, accompanied by the ship band, putting on several complex main stage productions in the evening. The Regent Signature Orchestra, the Cocktail pianist and a DJ also played music for listening or dancing each evening in several lounges throughout the ship. On our final evening a few band members and singers put on a lively Beatles music night, with dancing encouraged, in the Atrium. We were disappointed that the ship’s entertainment did not include a string quartet or even a solo cello or harp. Classical music would have been a lovely touch in the pre-dinner period.

Curtain call after an imaginative main stage production

There was no shortage of games and puzzles throughout the ship. Trivia, Bingo, darts, shuffle golf and beanbag toss were among several ways guests competed for coveted Regent points and prizes at the end of the cruise. We were also pleased to see and hear a retired history professor give illustrated lectures about subjects ranging from Mayan civilization to the Caribbean connection in World War II. Another special treat was seeing actor John O’Hurley (best known as J. Peterman on Seinfeld) perform his brilliant one man show – music and musings – called “A Man With Standards”.

Excellent history lectures in the main theatre

The ship itself was clearly the star of our week-long cruise from Miami but the itinerary was fascinating too. We docked in Roatan, Honduras, for an island tour and swim, then stopped the next day in nearby Belize, the only English speaking country in Central America. Sandra joined a tour to a spice farm where the two chefs from the Culinary Arts Kitchen collected spices to be used in a hands-on cooking class back on the ship. Guests prepared prawn biryani with garam masala and white pepper crepes with cardamom ice cream. In the meantime John visited a typical Mayan village off the grid where a chocolate maker showed how cacao beans were harvested and turned into the popular sweet treats.

Our planned stop in Costa Maya, Mexico, was cancelled because seas were too rough to dock but Cozumel was more tranquil and we relived our youth by boarding a two-person mini speedboat and racing through choppy water with other boats before stopping for a snorkel in warm, pristine waters filled with tropical fish.

Seven Seas Splendor has been called, “the most luxurious cruise ship in the world”. In many ways it’s true. But later in 2023, Regent is launching Seven Seas Grandeur, a sister ship to Splendor. With subtle improvements, Grandeur is now likely to claim the “most luxurious” title. It will be fun to find out.

John and Sandra Nowlan are travel and food writers based in Halifax.

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan