Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/27/25 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/27/25

Swan Hellenic’s SH Vega

We spend 10 nights aboard Swan Hellenic SH Vega on an expedition cruise from Iceland to Greenland.

Itinerary: Reykjavik, Iceland - At Sea - Greenland -Bear Islands & Sydkap - Storefjord & Norreflord - Segelsällskapet Fjord - Blomsterbugt - At Sea - Isafjöður & Vigur Island - Dynjandi - Disembark

Review Video

Daily Cruise Blog

We spent 10 nights aboard Swan Hellenic’s SH Vega sailing from Reykjavik, Iceland, to Northeast Greenland and returning to Reykjavik. Swan Hellenic invited us on this sailing as journalists; however, we are not being paid for our review or our video. As is always the case, we will tell you exactly what we liked about this cruise, and anything we did not like. This was our 149th cruise and we have sailed on 41 different cruise lines.

PRE-CRUISE

*Courtyard by Marriott Keflavik Airport*

Swan Hellenic offered all guests a one night pre-cruise hotel stay in Reykjavik before embarkation. More accurately, it was a hotel in Keflavik, which is where the international airport for Reykjavik is located. Our hotel for this cruise was the Courtyard by Marriott Keflavik Airport (see above). Keflavik is located about 45 minutes from Reykjavik, so the pre-cruise stay is really nothing more than spending time at the hotel, since there is little to see or do in Keflavik. A better option would have been a hotel in Reykjavik so that the day could be spent sightseeing, dining, etc. That said, the Courtyard was very nice, spotlessly clean, modern and had two restaurants on site.

Another perk for cruise travelers is that there is a very nice pharmacy located in the parking lot of the hotel. So, if you need to stock up on any toiletries or over-the-counter meds, here is your chance. Of course, there is no guarantee that this will be your pre-cruise hotel with Swan Hellenic.

“Travel Tip - When looking for a pharmacy in a foreign country, look for Apotek, Pharmacia, or usually a green cross.”

— CruiseReport

After an overnight flight, we were only interested in catching up on sleep and the beds and bedding at the Courtyard were some of the best we have found in any hotel.

The one-night stay also included complimentary breakfast the following morning before the 11am departure for Reykjavik. Motor coaches are used to provide guests with a complimentary transfer to Reykjavik. Guests were advised to have their luggage tagged and in the hotel lobby by 9:45am. Luggage is loaded into a separate truck to be transferred directly to the ship.

*Guest luggage waiting to be loaded into the truck*

Since the ship does not begin embarkation until 2pm, the coaches drop guests off in front of the Reykjavik Opera House. It is an easy walk from the Opera House to the port where the ship was docked and there are also shops, restaurants and museums nearby to occupy the four hours prior to embarkation.

*Two motor coaches wait to transfer guests to the ship*

We walked to the iconic Luthern Church, a landmark in Reykjavik, to get some photos. The pedestrian street leading to the church is lined with souvenir shops, cafes, clothing shops and restaurants. We learned very quickly that Iceland is expensive. We stopped at a cafe for a cup of coffee and hot chocolate and the tab was $9. A souvenir refrigerator magnet that we often pay $2 to $3 for in Europe was $10!

*Evangelical-Lutheran church Hallgrimskirkja*

Rickee was interested in purchasing a small backpack for the trip because she forgot to bring her backpack. She found one she really liked at a shop in town, but the price was $240! And, it wasn’t even leather.

EMBARKATION

Even though embarkation was scheduled for 2pm, we were able to embark at 1:30. After a brief passport check in the terminal, we walked to the gangway to board SH Vega. As soon as we reached the top of the gangway, we are welcomed aboard by Hotel Director Ferdinand Fernandes and Captain Lyubo Garciyanov. We are instructed to go to the Observation Lounge on Deck 7 to complete check-in.

When we arrive at the Observation Lounge, we are greeted with welcome-aboard glasses of champagne, a luxury touch that you won’t find on many cruise lines. Check-in was as simple as showing our passport, getting a photo taken, and receiving our stateroom key cards. At check-in, we were informed that we had been upgraded to a suite on Deck 5 midship, most likely because the ship was only about 50% capacity. We were assigned to Suite 515.

*The check-in line at Observation Lounge*

After check-in, we were invited to enjoy a light snack in the Club Lounge located aft on Deck 7 where Afternoon Tea was being offered. We will talk more about Afternoon Tea in the section on Food and Dining. Rickee has some prescription eyedrops that have to remain frozen, so she asked Hotel Director, Ferdie, if they would be able to keep the eyedrops somewhere in the galley where they would remain frozen. There is a refrigerator/mini-bar in each stateroom, but it simply is not cold enough to keep things frozen. Ferdie was happy to accommodate Rickee’s request and summoned Restaurant Manager, Fhilbert, to assist. Fhilbert actually remembered Rickee and the eyedrops from when we sailed with him on SH Diana and knew exactly what to do. This is great service and not every cruise line will accommodate such requests.

It only took about 30 minutes for our luggage to arrive in our suite and we had enough time to unpack most everything before the mandatory muster drill at 5pm. After the muster drill in the Observation Lounge, guests were invited to the Pool Deck (Deck 7 aft) for a Sail Away party.

Waiters and waitresses are greeting guests with complimentary glasses of champagne and other cocktails. Of course, wine, beer and spirits are complimentary on Swan Hellenic.

The weather is unseasonably nice and sunny, although a little cool, as we sail away from Reykjavik. We were docked right next to a NATO warship and, as we sail away, the sun is perfectly positioned to get good views of the top of the iconic Lutheran church.

One unique feature of a Swan Hellenic cruise is that dinner is served buffet-style on the day of embarkation. Tonight they have a very extensive buffet set up in the Swan Restaurant on Deck 4. I will go into much more detail about the food and dining later in the review.

After dinner, we return to our suite to finish unpacking. The embarkation process on Swan Hellenic is buttery smooth.

THE SHIP

SH Vega is one of two identical sister ships in the Swan Hellenic fleet, with SH Minerva being the first ship in the fleet. SH Diana is the third ship in the fleet and is slightly larger, but looks nearly identical to the other two ships, both inside and out. She is just a bit longer and has a few more staterooms and a larger spa. We sailed on SH Diana through the Panama Canal in 2024.

SH Vega has a tonnage of 10,617 with 9 decks, can accommodate 158 guests and up to 122 crew members. She is powered by four diesel generators which power two shaft-driven propellers. SH Vega is a Polar Class 5 rated vessel with ice breaking capabilities. The ship has 2 rudders, forward and aft thrusters and oversized stabilizers.

The ship is outfitted with 10 MK5 Zodiacs and 2 MK6 Zodiacs. These are used for excursions in remote locations where wet landings are often required.

There are two elevators midship along with a very wide staircase, which is more than adequate for this size vessel. The elevators are large and very fast. Elevators can carry guests from Deck 3 to Deck 8. Deck 9 Is only accessible by stairs; however, Deck 9 was not used at all on our cruise.

The main hub of activity on the ship is the Observation Lounge on Deck 7 forward. This lounge features comfortable seating, views of the ocean on both port and starboard sides, and a full bar. There is a small gift shop located near the entrance to the Observation Lounge selling Swan Hellenic logo items.

The Observation Lounge is where the Expedition Team conducts the Daily Briefing and Recap (usually at 6:30pm). This is also the location for all of the lectures conducted onboard. There is a large screen at the front of the lounge to display slide shows, videos, and when lectures are not underway, displays the view from the bow camera.

There is a small heated infinity swimming pool located aft on Deck 7, but no sun loungers were present on our Arctic journey. When in warmer climates, the crew will set up the sun loungers around the pool. There is an open-deck Jacuzzi hot tub located on Deck 8 starboard. There is also a gym on Deck 8 along with a sauna with an ocean view window.

There is a small, and I mean small, beauty salon and spa on Deck 3. Also on Deck 3 are a library, an expedition lab and Basecamp, the ship’s mudroom and Zodiac embarkation area. Additionally, the ship’s Medical Center is located on Deck 3.

As I previously mentioned, for those wanting to stay in shape, there is a small gym located on Deck 8 with modern stationary bicycle, treadmills, rowing machine, free weights and other weight machines.

There is a launderette on Deck 4 that is available to all guests on a complimentary basis. There are three commercial-grade washers and three dryers and they are almost completely automated. There is no charge for detergent. In addition to the washers and dryers, the launderette has a sink, a clothing steamer and an ironing board with iron. They also provide distilled water for the steamer and steam iron.

Before our cruise, guests were required to submit a medical release from their doctor. This is because, on a sailing to Greenland, the locations are so remote and uninhabited, there are no medical facilities within hundreds of miles or more. That said, the ship is equipped with a medical clinic that has the capability to treat many conditions or injuries should they arise. The Medical Clinic is staffed by a doctor and a nurse.

I was on a three-day media sailing of SH Vega shortly after her launch in 2022. I was very pleased to see that the ship is showing very little, if any, signs of wear. All of the public spaces, carpeting, furnishings, and hardware look fresh and new. I saw no visible rust on the exterior of the ship or on our balcony, an indication that the ship is being very well maintained.

For 9 out of the 10 days, the ride on SH Vega was rock solid with no noticeable motion when underway. On the sailing from Greenland back to Iceland, we did get a fair amount of pitching motion, on which the ship’s stabilizers have no impact. Even so, for a small ship, the motion was tolerable. Seasickness medication is provided at no charge and could be obtained from the Reception Desk on Deck 4.

ACCOMMODATIONS

As I mentioned earlier, we were upgraded upon embarkation to a suite on Deck 5. The size of the suite is 40 square meters (430 square feet). On my previous sailing aboard Vega, I was in a Balcony D5 stateroom which, by most cruise ship standards, would be marketed as a suite. Balcony staterooms are 25 square meters (269 square feet), however, 53 square feet of that is taken up by the balcony.

We had the opportunity to tour the Oceanview, Balcony, and Premium Suite categories. The standout feature of all categories is a massive amount of storage. Even the Oceanview and Balcony staterooms have large wardrobes for hanging clothes and an entire wall of storage cabinets across from the bed.

Bathrooms are spacious and include rain shower heads and lighted magnifying makeup mirrors. Our suite also had a separate bathtub. There are two very large drawers under the sink as well as a large medicine cabinet for your personal items. Bathroom amenities include hand soap, body lotion, shampoo, conditioner and body wash. All of these amenities are provided in full-size pump bottles. There is no bar soap provided. Robes and slippers are also provided. Our only critique of the bathroom is that the lighting is a bit dim.

Oceanview and Balcony staterooms have a nice desk/vanity with flip up lighted mirrors built into the desk, a feature not found in the suites.

*Oceanview/Balcony stateroom living room*

It should be noted that the Oceanview staterooms are identical in size and design to the Balcony stateroom, the only difference being the lack of a balcony. If you don’t need a balcony, the Oceanview staterooms are a real value proposition. The ship is small enough that, if you want to be outdoors, you are never more than a few steps from an outer deck.

All staterooms are equipped with comfortable beds and quality bedding. There is a large flat screen television with tons of programming (suites have two televisions). On our sailing, the television channels were almost never available, possibly due to a lack of satellite connection in that remote part of the world. However, we really enjoyed watching the view from the Bow Cam and appreciated the replays of the briefings and lectures available on the closed-circuit TV. There is also a nice selection of movies available at no charge.

There are electrical outlets placed throughout the stateroom/suite and USB-A ports are available just under the bedside LED reading lamps and on the desk/vanity. Many of the lights are on dimmer switches and there is a subtle nightlight feature that illuminates the floor for late night bathroom visits.

*Bedside switches for lights and a US-style 110 outlet.*

The most distinguishing feature of Swan Hellenic staterooms/suites is the fireplace. That’s right. When you return from your polar adventure, you can relax in front of a crackling fire. Well, it’s not a real fire, but a simulated one. We have not seen this on any other cruise line. Of course, you can turn this off if you like using the remote control. We really enjoyed having a fireplace.

Balcony staterooms and suites have nice-sized balconies equipped with a metal table and two metal chairs. Suites get a sun lounger as well. Access to the balcony is provided through a heavy, sliding glass door, which we much prefer over the hinged balcony doors present on some ships. Suites have the sliding door access to the balcony from the living room and also from the bedroom. Opening the balcony door will automatically shut off the stateroom air conditioning, so make sure you close and lock the balcony door when you come back into the stateroom from the balcony.

There is no lack of storage space in any category stateroom or suite. I don’t think we have ever seen such efficient design when it comes to storage. In our suite, there were three large double-door wardrobe closets in the entry hall. Two of these can accommodate hanging clothes, while the center one has shelves and drawers from floor to ceiling.

Across from the closets you will find four hooks on the wall. We wish every cruise line would add hooks like this. They are great for hanging up jackets, backpacks, caps, etc.

Our bedside lamps were missing the round glass globes to cover the bulbs. The head of housekeeping said that a previous guest broke one of them and they were waiting on a replacement globe to arrive.

Every stateroom receives complimentary Basic WiFi service, which we found to be quite slow. We upgraded to the Platinum Plan, but even that service is slower than premium plans on other cruise lines. As far as I know, Swan Hellenic is not using Starlink, the use of which would probably provide an upgraded experience. Nevertheless, with the Platinum Plan service, I was able to upload a couple of small videos to YouTube and keep my Instagram updated throughout the day, so it was definitely useable.

Swan Hellenic has some of the most spacious and comfortable staterooms we have experienced. And, the staterooms have more storage than we have ever seen. Although, they do not have dedicated butler service, our stateroom attendant, Kadek, did an amazing job of keeping our suite spotlessly clean and was there whenever we needed anything. Staterooms and suites are serviced twice each day. This includes refilling the water carafes that replace bottled water on this environmentally-focused voyage.

We had one small challenge in our suite which involved the air vents in the bedroom. They are located at the top of the wall where it joins the ceiling and are aimed directly at the bed. At night, the air was hitting Rickee right in the head and was uncomfortable. I had a similar issue a few years ago on an MSC ship. On SH Vega, I came up with a hack for blocking the air coming from the vents on her side of the room. I tucked and secured a couple of sheets of paper into the top of the vent. This forced the airflow downward and solved the problem. We did not notify Kadek about this, nor did we call Guest Services and ask for someone to come and change the direction of the vents. We have no doubt that this would have been immediately addressed if we had let someone know. Instead, we just fixed it so it worked for us. Some people like having air blowing on them at night. Rickee just doesn’t happen to be one of those people.

FOOD AND DINING

There are three dining venues on SH Vega. The main dining venue is the Swan Restaurant on Deck 4, offering tables for two, four or more as tables can be combined to accommodate larger groups. During the daytime, Swan Restaurant is a casual buffet venue serving breakfast and lunch. In the evenings, it is transformed into a more “formal” restaurant with full table service. I put “formal” in quotes because, while the dining room and service is formal, the dress code on Swan Hellenic is always casual and relaxed.

There are also several comfortable booths that can each hold four guests. We really liked the booths.

*Two-top tables can be combined for groups*

All of the food and dining onboard Swan Hellenic is supervised by Restaurant Manager, Fhilbert, and Head Waiter, Kadek (yes, there are two Kadeks onboard). When it comes to food preparation, a team of 11 chefs prepare dishes fresh each day under the watchful eye of Executive Chef, Amit Rao. Preparing delicious food on an expedition cruise such as this is quite challenging since the ship can only provision on embarkation day in Reykjavik for the entire 10 days. In spite of this challenge, we felt like Chef Rao and his team were able to deliver very good food throughout the cruise.

*Head Waiter, Kadek and Restaurant Manager, Fhilbert*

Breakfast buffet items are pretty much the same each day, with a few variations. Always available are scrambled eggs, bacon, beans, tomatoes and some sort of breakfast sausage. There are also pancakes, cereals, freshly-baked breads and pastries, yogurt, a variety of fruit, oatmeal, sliced meats, cheeses and more. There is an egg station where you can order Eggs Benedict, or eggs prepared any way you want them.

Lunch entrees change every day and are usually ethnically themed (Greek, Mexican, Asian, Caribbean, etc.). Every day you will find sliced meats, cheeses, a variety of salads, olives, fresh breads and tempting desserts.

Evening menus change daily, with four main course offerings, a soup course, a couple of salad choices and a couple of starter choices. There is always a vegetarian dish available. A bread basket is placed on the table each evening and the breads are very good. They also offer a different specialty dip each evening along with the butter. You can order from the “Always Available” menu which features items such as chicken breast, steak, Caesar Salad, spaghetti, and more.

Complimentary red and white wines are offered with lunch and dinner and the choices change each day. However, if you have a special wine you prefer, and they have it available, they will pour that for you. We found that they had a Selbach Riesling that we really liked and, Cherry, one of the wine stewardesses, would bring a bottle to our table each day at lunch and dinner.

We found all of the soups at lunch and dinner to be very good. For some reason, many cruise lines really struggle to get soups right. Not so on SH Vega. Every soup I had was exceptional, and well seasoned.

Salads were also very good. I cannot recall having a better Caesar salad on any of my previous 148 cruises. Not even on the Italian cruise lines.

The meat dishes ranged from good to very good. My Chicken Karagge was really nice, while the “always available” steak was just so-so. The Prime Rib served one night was delicious and perfectly cooked.

Portion sizes were generous at dinner time, and while we never asked, I am sure second helpings would be provided if you asked. Table service was very attentive without being overly so.

We did feel like the food on SH Vega was a slight step up from what we enjoyed on SH Diana last year.

When weather permits, lunch buffets may be moved upstairs to the Pool Deck for al fresco dining. We had such great weather on our cruise, that we enjoyed an outdoor buffet on three days. And, they even served a dinner buffet on the Pool Deck on the last night of the cruise.

Guests who do not want to eat outdoors can always take their food into the Club Lounge where tables are set for meals.

And, that is the perfect segue into talking about Club Lounge, the second dining venue on SH Vega, located on Deck 7 aft. Club Lounge is a very casual area with a small buffet serving light breakfast items (pastries, yogurt, fruit, sliced meats, cheese, donuts, muffins and cookies), lighter lunch fare (salads, breads, pizza, and sandwiches) and an informal Afternoon Tea which included scones with the trimmings and is served from 3:30 to 5:30 each day.

There is a self-serve coffee machine located in Club Lounge that can make all of your favorite coffee drinks or provide hot water for tea. A juice machine offers a variety of fruit juices. A nice selection of tea bags is available. There is honey should you want to sweeten your tea.

Club Lounge was my early morning go-to spot for coffee and to work on my daily cruise blog. I love the booth seating there.

The third venue for dining is the Pool Grill which is open for lunch. Here you can order burgers, sandwiches, kabobs and a few items that will change daily. If you do not want to sit outdoors, you can always sit inside at Club Lounge. And, waiters in Club Lounge will take and deliver your orders from the Pool Grill.

There is one more venue for dining on SH Vega and that is your stateroom or suite. The ship offers 24-hour complimentary room service with a nice menu. During dinner time, you can order from the Swan Restaurant menu. I had room service one evening and ordered my favorite Caesar Salad along with a Chicken Teriyaki skewer from Swan’s evening menu.

I was pleasantly surprised when the food arrived in under 10 minutes. The Caesar salad was delicious, as always, and the chicken skewers were hot and also delicious.

All of the dining on Swan Hellenic is included in your cruise fare.

EXCURSIONS and ACTIVITIES

On an expedition ship there are really only two types of activities: excursions, which take place off of the ship, and lectures, which are held on board. Rather than a Cruise Director like you find on a typical cruise ship, expedition ships instead have an Expedition Leader. Our Expedition Leader for this sailing was Nicki D’Souza. We have been fortunate to sail with Nicki on at least three other cruises (on multiple cruise lines) over the past 20 years. She was our Expedition Leader last year on SH Diana when we transited the Panama Canal. So, we were very excited to see her again on this sailing.

There are 11 members of the Expedition Team, many with a background in one or more sciences. The Expedition Team members are responsible for transporting guests safely from the ship to shore using one of the ship’s 12 Zodiacs. The Zodiacs are inflatable watercraft, two of which can carry up to 14 guests. The other ten are most comfortable with a limit of 10 guests.

Before guests can board the Zodiacs, they must be properly outfitted with waterproof pants, Muck boots (provided), a portable life vest (provided in each stateroom) and a parka (also provided). Guests submit their parka size to Swan Hellenic in advance of the cruise and, the parka, along with a waterproof backpack with refillable water bottle, are on the stateroom bed when you arrive onboard.

Guests are also provided waterproof Muck boots, which are tall, rubber, and have very thick rubber soles which are good for staying sure- footed on slippery rocks. Each stateroom is assigned a locker in Basecamp to store the boots. Each guest must provide their own waterproof pants to go over your jeans or other pants. The boots and waterproof pants are required since many of the destinations require a “wet landing” where you step off of the zodiac into 6 to 12 inches of water. In addition, Zodiac rides often involve a lot of splashing so being covered by waterproof clothing items is always a good idea.

Crew members are on hand to make sure you safely board and exit the Zodiac both from the ship and ashore.

There are typically two excursions each day involving the Zodiacs, at least on this itinerary. One excursion is in the morning and the other in the afternoon (except on days at sea). Guests are not required to participate in all, or any, of the Zodiac excursions. However, the Zodiac exploration of remote areas is really the whole point behind an expedition cruise.

Sometimes guests are invited to simply do a sailing aboard a Zodiac to view icebergs, glaciers or wildlife. Usually, optional tours are available (purchase required). On this cruise, we chose an optional Whale Watching tour in Iceland during which we did see several whales. But, the next day, we experienced so many whale sightings from the ship! It was amazing!

The Expedition Guides will explain the various wildlife viewed from the Zodiacs and are there to answer any questions. We found all of the Expedition Guides to be exceptional. All were very professional and put the guests’ safety first and foremost.

The only way you will ever get memories like the one below is on an expedition cruise. The mountains in the background are over 900 million years old.

*Rickee and I at Segelsällskapet Fjord, Greenland*

In addition to the excellent excursions, we enjoyed a series of informative and inspiring lectures on a variety of topics. Expedition Guide, Anya, is a Marine Biologist and gave an excellent lecture on Polar Bears. Dr. Becca Robinson, who works with the SETI Institute, was a guest Lecturer who enlightened us about the Northern Lights and also space exploration.

There were additional lectures on volcanos, plankton and a variety of other environmental topics. All were very well presented and interesting. All lectures are recorded and available for viewing later on the stateroom televisions.

Guests could also utilize the onboard Spa. Available services include manicures, pedicures, massage, facials, and hair styling. Both Rickee and I had an opportunity to visit the Spa on board SH Vega. The space allocated for the Spa is very small, but the area is efficiently used. The Spa is staffed by three women, two of whom specialize in massages and facials, while the other specializes in hair and nails. I chose to have a pedicure and Rickee chose a facial which, afterwards, she described as “heavenly”. My pedicure took place in the small Spa room on Deck 3. Rickee’s facial took place in a room on Deck 8 where there was a comfortable massage table. Rickee said products used in her facial were by La Mer, a highly-respected luxury brand. We both enjoyed our Spa visit.

STAFF AND CREW

In 149 cruises, this was perhaps the most warm and engaging crew with which we have ever sailed. Everyone went out of their way to make sure the trip was special. We recognized a few of the crew members from our previous cruise aboard SH Diana in 2024. Jona, at the Guest Services Desk, was always available when we had questions or any special request.

One the third day of the cruise, Rickee had to visit the Medical Clinic for fear that she may have contracted Covid. She had developed a cough and a sore throat. Dr. Mila Delgado tested her for Covid and Influenza A and B and all tests came back negative. She prescribed some antibiotics and cough medicine (which were provided). Of course, we have travel insurance to cover the medical expenses. From that moment on, every time Dr. Mila saw Rickee, on the ship or on shore, she would give her a big hug and ask her how she was feeling. I don’t recall any cruise ship doctor taking this level of interest in the guests’ well-being. Dr. Mila Delgado is a real treasure and SH Vega is lucky to have her.

A great crew comes from the top down and Captain Garciyanov, or Captain Lyubo as he prefers to be called, is one of the most personable Captains with which we have ever sailed. You can see him around the ship talking with guests and he is very accessible, as was the entire Senior Staff. Captain Lyubo made it a point to always have guests notified when wildlife had been spotted from the bridge and he always positioned the ship for the best viewing.

FINAL ASSESSMENT

Our voyage to Iceland and Greenland on SH Vega was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. As I said previously, we have sailed on several other expedition cruises with Cruise West (now out of business), Uncruise, Viking, Silversea, and Abercrombie & Kent. What distinguishes Swan Hellenic is that the company does only expedition cruising. The ships are purpose-built for harsh Arctic and Antarctic environments.

Service levels are near the top of what you will experience in expedition cruising. Is Swan Hellenic “luxury”? While I would not consider it to be the same level of luxury as Silversea or Abercrombie and Kent, it certainly comes close. It is about as close to all-inclusive as you can get.

We can highly recommend Swan Hellenic. We thoroughly enjoyed our cruise aboard SH Diana in 2024 and enjoyed this one on SH Vega even more. This would be the perfect ship on which to book a cruise to Antarctica.

VIDEO

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Sea Cloud, History and Tradition in the Caribbean

According to the Berlitz Cruise Guide, Sea Cloud is “the most beautiful cruise-sail ship in the world…and one of the world’s best travel experiences.”

By John and Sandra Nowlan

According to the Berlitz Cruise Guide, Sea Cloud is “the most beautiful cruise-sail ship in the world…and one of the world’s best travel experiences.”

What makes this 60 passenger square-rigger, now almost 90 years old, even more interesting is when the cruise starts and ends in Barbados. This tropical paradise, very popular with Americans and Canadians, is the ideal location to begin one of Sea Cloud’s regular Caribbean itineraries. The friendly, former British colony is blessed with some fine beach hotels and excellent restaurants. We stayed at a resort that combines both. The Fairmont Royal Pavilion is located on a superb stretch of sand with every room overlooking the turquoise Caribbean. Fairmont’s enhanced culinary focus has made it even more attractive, especially the new steakhouse, Palm Terrace, with some of the best beef we’ve ever enjoyed.

*The Beach at the Fairmont Royal Pavilion*

It’s a 20 minute taxi ride to the busy Barbados cruise port in Bridgetown, the capital. Three big cruise ships were tied up but the vessel that stood out was our sleek windjammer, Sea Cloud. The tallest of its four masts rises 184 feet above the waterline. The sails were tied up, of course, but the eight miles of hemp ropes and rigging evoked another era.

*Marjorie Merriweather Post's Bedroom on Sea Cloud.*

Sea Cloud was built in Germany in 1931, a gift from U.S. financier Edward F. Hutton to his wife, cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post, the richest women in America. At the time it was the largest private yacht ever built with no expense spared for teak decks, burnished brass and furnishings in mahogany and elaborately carved oak. The two master bedrooms, filled with Chippendale furniture, were huge with marble fireplaces and ornate gold faucets in the bathroom.

Sea Cloud has gone through many changes over the years including time as a weather observation ship in World War II. In 1979 a group of German investors bought the ship, spent $7.5 million refurbishing it and making it available for charters and scheduled itneraries. Further enhancements added more cabins and modern safety features.

*The Nowlan's modest room. Small, but comfortable. Two large windows.*

Sea Cloud can now accommodate 64 guests in a wide variety of cabins. The eight ultra-luxury suites are on the first deck with the remainder on decks two and three being modest in size (our room had narrow, twin beds) but with quality furnishings and excellent L’Occitane toiletries in the generously sized bathroom. There are no televisions but internet is available and each day a newspaper summary is delivered to staterooms.

Many of the efficient and friendly crew of sixty are used for constant maintenance and for setting the 29 sails. It’s a stunning spectacle to see the young men and women climbing up the rope ladders to the topmost sails where they untie the lines, then return to deck to wrestle and tug on the coils of rope which unfurl the vast expanse of billowing sheets. Several times each voyage, guests are invited to .help with these latter stages (guests are not allowed to climb the masts).

*Crewmembers climb the masts to set the sails.*

Outstanding cuisine is a highlight of every Sea Cloud cruise. Buffet lunch, often with fresh fish or lobster brought aboard at various ports, is carved, grilled and served on the Lido deck. There’s an adjacent bar with an excellent array of complimentary spirits, wine and beer. There were at least ten Scotch choices including high end single malts like Talisker, Dalwhinnie and Oban.

*The chef brings fresh fish aboard for lunch.*

In the evening, elegant meals are served in the original lounge (one wall is a fine library) and adjacent dining room where the rich and famous dined and were entertained in the 1930s and 40s. Surrounded by dark woods, hand carved mahogany and oak plus nautical oil paintings, guests are pampered with fine wines and extraordinary cuisine like duck breast, rack of lamb, tender filet of veal or black halibut. We counted more than 20 different cheese choices during the cruise. The galley is small but the quality of the output is remarkable.

*Lunch Buffet, overseen by the genial Hotel Manager.*

Entertainment on Sea Cloud is minimal (no one missed the big production shows) but a pianist plays each day, a knowledgeable historian gave lectures about the islands we were visiting, an officer talked about star gazing (visibility at night is excellent, of course), a local band was brought aboard one evening and, as a highlight, the crew assembled in traditional sailor’s outfits to sing sea shanties.

*Local Entertainers are invited on board Sea Cloud.*

Our Barbados round trip itinerary was a treat. It included Bequia in the Grenadines where we boarded safari trucks to tour the island and visit a sea turtle rehabilitation centre. After a relaxing sea day we docked in Dominica by Cabrits National Park where local historian Dr. Lennox Honeychurch showed us nearby Fort Shirley and the work he’s done to restore the British garrison, built in 1765 to deter the French.

A short visit to St. Barths with its fancy yachts and high end shops was followed by a fascinating tour of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. The highlight was “The Baths”, a series of huge, volcanic seaside boulders with small, pristine beaches. Unfortunately the surf was too high for safe swimming. We were able to swim the next day at Iles de Saintes in Guadeloupe. The lovely beach alongside the village is filled with fishing boats and we could see the fishermen unloading their catch surrounded by hungry pelicans.

*The Baths. Volcanic Rock Formations in Virgin Gorda.*

Our last stop, Saint Lucia, was a particular delight. After anchoring in Soufriere Harbour close to the famous Twin Pitons, most guests took the complimentary tour which included the lush Diamond Botanical Garden and Waterfall plus the world’s only drive-in volcano (still bubbling and steaming, it was formed by a collapsed crater more than 400,000 years ago).

*St. Lucia's Drive In Volcano. Always steaming.*

We were reluctant to leave this remarkable and historic vessel once we returned to Barbados but we had booked a half day Lickrish Food Tour through the UNESCO listed center of Bridgetown. We’ve been on food tours in other cities but this was by far the most complete. Our entertaining guide was very knowledgeable about the history and culture of the city and took us to seven restaurants and food stands specializing in local Bajan cuisine like barbequed pig tails and spicy fish cakes. Generous portions for all.

*The Twin Pitons and local St. Lucia Beer.*

After the extraordinary food on Sea Cloud we really didn’t need more temptations but the Lickrish tour was a delightful addition to our unique Caribbean land and sea adventure.

John and Sandra Nowlan are travel and food writers based in Halifax.

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan

John & Sandra Nowlan 6/13/19 John & Sandra Nowlan 6/13/19

Chicago to Toronto – Cruising the Inland Sea on Victory I

“The Great Lakes – Unsalted and Shark Free”. It was an effective bumper sticker but the publisher could have added, “Wonderful Cruising”.

By John and Sandra Nowlan

“The Great Lakes – Unsalted and Shark Free”. It was an effective bumper sticker but the publisher could have added, “Wonderful Cruising”.

The Great Lakes contain fully a fifth of all the standing fresh water in the world. With 10,000 miles of shoreline, the five lakes, in many ways, dominate the geography, culture and history of North America. The region has never had the profile of ocean or European river cruising…but it should.

Chicago, with its grand buildings, many museums and outstanding cuisine was an ideal city from which to begin our cruise to Toronto.

Victory I. Ready to sail the Great Lakes.

Our ship was Victory I, a comfortable 200 passenger vessel built in 2001 and owned by Victory Cruise Lines, now part of the American Queen Steamboat Company. Its registered tonnage is just 5,000 and it’s 300 feel long. Its unusual bow is vertical rather than slanted.

Finding Victory I was a challenge. We gave our taxi driver, a 30 year veteran, a street address and told him it was at the “Chicago Dock”. “Never heard of it”, he said. After consulting his GPS with a long ride south (almost to the Indiana border), the handsome ship was finally spotted in a gritty, very unattractive industrial area. Chicago, if it wants to be a major cruise player, has to find a better port facility closer to downtown.

Once aboard the Victory I the atmosphere improved rapidly. A welcome drink and smiling crew members made registration simple and we were escorted to our room. It was small with muted, attractive colors but cleverly laid out with a surprising amount of storage space. Two large picture windows offered great views. The bathroom was tiny but quite functional with luxury touches like L’Occitane toiletries.

Before sailing, a quick tour of Victory I showed off its passenger-friendly attributes. On Deck two a comfortable Compass Lounge had enough room for all passengers and became the center for entertainment and lectures. A small library on either side of the lounge led to the “Tavern” with its bar and complimentary beer, wine, spirits and cocktails. Good complimentary wine was also available with meals in the two dining areas, the large Coastal Dining Room on Deck one and the more intimate one, The Grill, with excellent views, at the rear of Deck four. All meals were surprisingly good with our German chef and his team producing imaginative dishes like Beef Steak Tartar, Colcanon Soup, Venison Toutiere and Planko Crusted Atlantic Cod. The fish, mostly pre-frozen, was of a high quality with the very fresh Ontario trout a highlight one evening. Service from the well-trained Indonesian, Filipino and Indian waiters was very professional.

Compass Lounge for Relaxing and Lectures.

While food, service and comfort were excellent, it’s the Great Lakes itinerary that really shone. With outstanding guides, we visited both small, intimate communities and major North American cities.

Our first stop was new to most of the ship’s American, Canadian and Australian guests. On the east side of Lake Michigan, the largest city is Muskegon (population: 38,000). It boasts two fascinating World War 2 vessels that are now floating museums. The USS Silversides was the most decorated surviving submarine from the war. Visitors can walk through the claustrophobic interior and see the small galley and the crew’s bunk beds adjacent to the torpedo tubes. Nearby, visitors can also enjoy a tour through the cavernous interior and huge front unloading ramp of USS LST 393, one of only two remaining tank landing craft that were used to bring Sherman tanks and troops to the shores of Normandy 75 years ago during D-Day. More than a thousand of these versatile craft, each more than 300 feet long, were built for use in World War II.

One of two remaining tank landing ships from WW2.

In the afternoon another complimentary tour took us to the charming town of Holland, Michigan. As expected, the community was filled with tulips (luckily, it was tulip season) but the most interesting sight was the only authentic Dutch windmill in the US. The De Zwaan windmill was built in the Netherlands in 1761, then moved piece by piece to Holland, Michigan in 1964. Visitors can take a tour inside this working wind machine.

After a relaxing day on Lake Michigan (including elegant Afternoon Tea) we arrived at Mackinac Island, a unique US destination where cars have been banned since 1898. All transportation is by bicycle and horse drawn carriages, through the village with its 17 fudge shops and on to the historic Grand Hotel (built in 1887) with its 397 rooms and world’s longest porch. Victory Cruise Lines reserved a section of the Hotel’s huge restaurant for the extravagant Grand Luncheon Buffet.

Our first Canadian destination was Little Current, Ontario, a village on Manitoulin, the world’s largest freshwater island. It’s home to the Ojibwe People, part of the largest First Nation population in North America. All guests were invited to the nearby cultural center for a welcoming smudging ceremony and a Pow Wow, a lively exhibit of native drumming, singing and dancing.

After we re-boarded Victory I we went though the Little Current Swing Bridge dating from 1913 and past the Strawberry Island Lighthouse in Georgian Bay. Built in 1881 it’s one of the most photographed in North America.

After small, rural communities it was fascinating to dock beside the downtowns of two major US cities, Detroit and Cleveland. It was an easy walk from the ship to the central cores. Both offer a multitude of tourist attractions so, with just a day in each port, our tour organizers chose well. In Detroit the highlight was the Henry Ford Museum, second only to the Smithsonian in Washington for cultural significance. Among the exhibits in its huge, one level gallery are the limousine that carried President Kennedy on that fateful 1963 day in Dallas, the Alabama bus in which Rosa Parks defied seat segregation laws and the actual chair from the Ford Theatre occupied by President Lincoln when he was shot in 1865. Of course there are several exhibits showing early airplanes and locomotives along with Model A and Model T Fords where Henry Ford pioneered vehicle assembly lines.

In Cleveland, Victory guests were taken on an extensive Trolley Tour of the impressive city including a drive through the 170 acre medical campus of the world-renowned Cleveland Clinic and a stop at the outstanding Cleveland Museum of Art. But next door to the ship was an architectural masterpiece, the I.M. Pei designed Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, paying homage to the greats of rock music history, from Buddy Holly to Elvis and the Beatles to the Rolling Stones and Prince. Great fun for music nostalgia fans.

Wet fun and fine wine were in store for our final day of the cruise as Victory I entered the eight locks of the Welland Canal, avoiding Niagara Falls and lowering ships 326 feet between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. All guests were given a picturesque bus ride along the Niagara Parkway and then invited aboard one of the Hornblower Niagara Falls ships. Outfitted with red ponchos, guests sailed past the American Falls to the base of the dramatic Horseshoe Falls where wind, spray and towering cascades of water made an unforgettable impression.

Fully dried, we boarded our buses to Chateau des Charmes, one of the many fine wineries in the Niagara region where we enjoyed lunch and samples of excellent Ontario vintages. We then had free time in Niagara-on-the Lake, a charming community renowned as the home of the Shaw Summer Festival.

The next morning we woke up in Toronto in an industrial part of Lake Ontario but facing the extraordinary skyline of Ontario’s capital. It was certainly a prettier sight than the depressing view from the Chicago cruise port. The good news is that Victory Cruise Lines has promised that future Great Lakes sailings between Chicago and Toronto will use a much more convenient port, closer to downtown Chicago. A great start for a wonderful cruise experience.