John & Sandra Nowlan 12/14/24 John & Sandra Nowlan 12/14/24

A Mississippi River Cruise with American Cruise Lines

We sailed down the lower Mississippi River with American Cruise Lines

By John and Sandra Nowlan

We knew there’d be some great music as we sailed down the Mississippi from Memphis on one of American Cruise Lines new, modern riverboats. We didn’t expect the Southern food and hospitality to be so good nor, as Canadians, to appreciate American history and culture so much.

The music began as soon as we entered the Memphis airport shuttle bus. The unmistakable voice of Elvis Presley singing “Love Me Tender” drifted down the aisle from hidden speakers. The bus Shaked, Rattled and Rolled as it took us to the Guest House at Graceland, a four star, 450 room hotel adjacent to Elvis’ Graceland mansion. American Cruise Lines offers guests an optional two night stay at the comfortable Guest House with free access to the mansion and the separate, vast collection of Presley airplanes, cars, motorcycles, costumes and gold records. We could see why the Graceland complex is the most visited private home in the United States.

Walls filled with Elvis performance outfits

En route to the riverboat, the cruise line gave us a bus tour of Memphis with stops at Beale Street (home of the Blues), Sun Records (where Elvis made his first recordings) and the Lorraine Motel (now part of The National Civil Rights Museum) where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in 1968. We felt a strong sense of sadness as we gazed at the balcony of Room 306.

Our first glance of our Mississippi riverboat was from atop a levee in Memphis. We headed down the steep ramp to board the American Melody through its unusual flipped-up bow. Riverboats on the Mississippi have a unique challenge. With flood-control levees, some as high as 50 feet, all along the Mississippi, American Cruise Lines always carry golf carts to help the elderly and infirm safely navigate the challenging slopes.

In 2018 American Cruise Lines, the largest river and small ship cruise line in the United States, introduced the first modern riverboats in North America. American Melody was built in Maryland in 2021 with a maximum capacity of just 175 guests and an average room size of 350 square feet. Our “Veranda Suite” was 405 square feet and felt more like a spacious hotel room but with better, ever-changing views. We particularly appreciated the comfortable, king size bed and luxurious sheets and pillows. There were plenty of power and electronic outlets, high quality internet, much more drawer space than we’d ever need, very efficient temperature control, a 50 inch TV, and a large bathroom with soft, fluffy towels and two separate nozzles in the shower. We weren’t surprized when we were told that the ACL fleet of 20 riverboats (operating in 35 states) has the largest average guest rooms of any cruise line.

With the failure of American Queen Voyages, the only current competition for American Cruise Lines on the second longest river in the U.S. (the Missouri is about 100 miles longer) is the Viking Mississippi. This cruise ship is much larger than the ACL boats, accommodating up to 386 guests. The Hotel Manager on American Melody told us that the smaller boats of his company are better suited for the Mississippi because occasional low water levels can prevent the bigger, deeper draft of large boats from operating. American Cruise Lines riverboats have never missed a scheduled sailing due to water depth.

Finally heading downriver with a full passenger load (mostly Americans but with a smattering of Canadians, Brits and Australians) we were impressed with the layout of American Melody. Its four story atrium and public rooms never seemed crowded. On Deck 3 forward the large bright River Lounge was used for port briefings, trivia, excellent enrichment lectures and entertainment. The smaller indoor/outdoor Sky Lounge at the back of Deck 4 was a snackers dream, offering freshly baked cookies, 24 hour snacks, a wide selection of drinks, excellent coffee and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches. Plenty of loungers and a wrap around walking track were available on the full length top deck so guests could enjoy the passing scenery, including heavily laden barges pushed by strangely-named tow boats, semi tropical vegetation and small communities. When we reached Baton Rouge, heavy industry tended to dominate the shoreline.

Meals were a special treat on American Melody. As expected, emphasis was on Southern U.S. dishes, especially Creole, Cajun, even a noontime pig roast. We loved our Cornmeal Crusted Catfish with Collard Greens, Gulf Coast Blue Crabcakes, Sea Bass with Sauteed Crawfish and Jambalaya. The fish was particularly tasty. The Hotel Manager told us all seafood is fresh, never frozen. Lunch and dinner included complimentary wine, beer and spirits as well as a good selection of non-alcohol beer and wine. In the evening, white tablecloths graced the tables.

Cornmeal crusted catfish with collard greens

The serving staff on American Melody was young and energetic. By U.S. law, all staff must be American because ACL riverboats do not visit a foreign country. Although friendly and well-meaning we found the restaurant staff to be less efficient and well-trained as the primarily Filipino and Indonesian staff on international river, lake and ocean ships. Hotel Manager Glenn Taylor told us that while his staff may not be as polished as the international competition, they’re always pleasant and accommodating. He added that this is often the first full time job for young servers and he’s delighted that so many have used the riverboat experience as a stepping stone to a career in hospitality.

We were impressed with the quality of evening entertainment on American Melody. The talented performers were better than musical acts we’ve enjoyed on many European river cruises. Our favorites included Mississippi Marshall, a master of the Blues who played a mean guitar (we bought his CD), Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers (a three man band with female vocalist) and the Banjo Cats, a husband and wife team who have mastered several instruments.

The tours (most were complimentary) were outstanding. Who knew that tiny Cleveland, Mississippi, is the home of the impressive Grammy Museum, highlighting the amazing musical talent in southern states and around the Mississippi Delta? A stop in Vicksburg allowed us to visit a private Civil War museum with its huge collection of artifacts from that troubled time as well as the unusual Coca-Cola Museum in the building where Coke was first bottled in the U.S.

In Vidalia, Louisiana we visited a cotton plantation where we were able to hand pick some fluffy cotton, explore a historic cotton gin, then observe in a modern cotton gin the process of cleaning and bundling in 500 pound bales for transport. Along the way we were also able to visit several southern antebellum mansions that resembled a scene from Gone With the Wind. Standouts were The Myrtles in St. Francisville, Louisiana, and Oak Alley in Vacherie, Louisiana.

Oak Alley antebellum mansion in Louisiana

Our highlight in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was a visit to the capital building that dominates the skyline. At 450 feet it’s the tallest state capital in the United States. The panoramic view of the city and meandering Mississippi from the observation deck is spectacular. Built in the early 30s during the Depression, it was a project masterminded by controversial Governor and then Senator Huey Long. He was assassinated inside the building in 1935 where there’s now a memorial. We ended the day relaxing on our balcony admiring a magical pastel sunset.

Louisiana is well known for its plentiful bayous, slow moving marshy waterways. On our last day aboard American Melody we signed up for a tour called, “Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure”. Adventure indeed! Aboard a 40 passenger, flat-bottom aluminum boat, our captain took us through the narrow bayous where alligators were plentiful, either lounging on the shoreline or swimming alongside us (our captain even fed a few without losing his hand). In addition, we met many playful racoons and a family of not-so-playful wild hogs.

A small alligator on the Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure

The guest mix aboard American Melody was interesting. The personable and efficient Cruise Director, Colin Hietikko, told us that many of his American guests had traveled the world in their younger years and now wanted to stay closer to home with something safe and accessible. Older couples were certainly the prime demographic on our cruise with an average age of more than 70. But Glenn Taylor, the hotel manager, said that was slowly changing as the modern, all-inclusive riverboats in the American Cruise Lines fleet were beginning to attract more young people. That, along with fascinating itineraries, is a recipe for continued success.

John & Sandra Nowlan 11/28/18 John & Sandra Nowlan 11/28/18

Scenic Portugal. Five star service, accommodation and cuisine

Scenic Portugal. Five star service, accommodation and cuisine on the Douro River in Portugal.

By John and Sandra Nowlan

Portugal’s Douro River, winding 130 miles from the city of Porto on the Atlantic coast to the border of Spain, is a remarkable stretch of water. The former rapids have been tamed by a series of five giant dams and the topography is ever-changing. Between the various green hues of olive and almond trees, the views range from pastoral sheep and cattle farms to massive, colorful vineyards climbing in neat rows from the waterline to hundreds of yards high to narrow passages with giant boulders and steep, rocky cliffs on either side.

Currently there are 22 river cruise ships from several companies that ply the tranquil waters of the Douro from Porto. No one does it better than Scenic, the Australian-owned river cruise company that’s active on all the major European waterways. Our ship, the Scenic Azure, held just 96 guests, at least a dozen fewer than the competition. The ship’s General Manager, Jean-Paul Oliveira, said that Scenic always tries to set the standard for quality. “Our rooms are bigger,” he told us “and we can pay more attention to the needs of our guests. There are no extra costs. Everything is done for them.” Included in the fare are all airport transfers, meals, snacks, wine, bar drinks, tours, laundry and gratuities. For a luxury touch, every suite has the services of a butler.

All suites, except six on the lower deck, have full length, full width picture windows that lower at the touch of a button. The innovative balcony is actually part of the room, making the area seem more spacious. At night, another button lowers the room-darkening shade. The king size bed is totally adjustable with electric switches to move the mattress up and down. The bathroom includes a large shower enclosure with a half dozen nozzle choices and locations. High end L’Occitane soap, lotion, shampoo and conditioner are standard.

Dining was a special treat on Scenic Azure. Crystal, the main dining room, has open seating with tables for two to eight guests. Breakfast and lunch were buffet-style (with some specialty items available at lunch, including fresh grilled sardines) but dinner was full service with an extensive menu of Continental and Portuguese dishes. The beef, lamb and pork dishes were superb. Early in the cruise, the fish was not as good as it should have been but, towards the end of the week, the chef told us he changed his supplier. Major improvement!

The wines at lunch and dinner were especially good. Seeing all the vineyards along the Douro made us crave local vintages…and the ship delivered. Every evening the sommelier on board chose some wonderful white, red and rosé vintages, all very tasty and ideal for the cuisine. As expected, the selection of Port Wine was extensive with ruby, tawny and late bottles vintage all available. One afternoon the chefs offered a tasting combo of port wine and chocolate truffles. Decadent!

Every guest could book an evening at Portobello’s, where the front of the main lounge was turned into an excellent specialty restaurant with unique Portuguese fare and appropriate wines. For Diamond Level guests (Deck 3) an even fancier dinner, called Table D’Or, was offered. Limited to ten guests at a time, two chefs created an exquisite tasting menu with some of the best Douro wines and port. White glove service was provided by the three staff butlers. The Port highlight was a 2010 Ferreira Late Bottled Vintage. Rich, ultra-smooth and fragrant.

The outstanding onboard experience was matched by the scenery and by the excellent tours. Going through the five locks was a unique experience for many guests. One of the dams we traversed had a 115 feet water difference, the highest in Europe.

Onboard activities included Portuguese tile painting (the fired tiles were returned at the end of the cruise) and the pastry chef demonstrated how to make the unique and decadent Portuguese Custard Tarts. But the main attraction was the Douro River Valley itself (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the art, history and culture of its communities.

*Like a painting. Scenery along the Douro.*

First stop was Regua, a lively riverside town of 17,000, and its excellent Douro Museum, focusing mainly on the historic Port wine trade. Wine production in the region goes back 2000 years but the name “Port” was not recognized until the late 1600s.

The next day a trio of Scenic buses took guests to the early 18th Century Baroque masterpiece, Mateus Palace. The famous rosé wine, no longer made there, is named for this opulent property with its intricately carved wood ceilings and beautifully sculptured gardens.

The last Portuguese village on the Douro is Barca D’Alva where the Scenic Azure had to dock because the Spanish portion of the river lacks locks on its hydro dams. Again, the comfortable Scenic buses took us for an almost two hour ride to the remarkable Spanish city of Salamanca, population 150,000, dating back to the pre-ancient Rome period (Hannibal laid siege to the city in 220 BC). Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city centre boasts Spain’s oldest university and iconic buildings like its 12th Century Romanesque-style Old Cathedral, the 16th Century Casa de las Conchas (covered in symbolic seashells) and the Baroque style City Hall in the largest public square, La Plaza Mayor. Lunch and a Spanish Flamenco Dance show were provided at the nearby Hacienda Zorita, a 700 year old former monastery, now a five star resort. Its wine cellar holds almost 1500 barrels.

*Lunchtime entertainment. Flamenco Dancers.*

Heading downriver again towards Porto, we stopped at the Portuguese village of Pocinho where three tours were offered – the Coa Valley Museum, a kayak adventure or, our choice, a gourmet almond experience at the Casa Palnova Estate, a 1652 manor house that also produces olive oil and port wine. We were shown how local almonds are opened with small hammers, then how they are roasted in sugar syrup and covered with cinnamon, orange or ginger flavour. Lots of samples!

The next day we all took the Scenic buses for a hair-raising climb along narrow, switchback roads to the village of Provesende, a tiny town with stone houses, narrow streets and cobblestone roads. In its heyday it was filled with opulent manor houses, many of which have fallen into ruin, It’s quiet, almost ghostly (a 1573 pillory stands in the town square) but there’s activity at the Paderia Fatima bakery where 200 round loaves are produced daily in an ancient looking, wood-fired oven. In the barn-like basement of a 1680 manor house we were treated to port wine and bolo fresh bread (filled with meat) while surrounded by wine barrels, two of which were car size. It truly was a step back in time.

Back in Porto, our Scenic guides took us to the 14th Century Sao Francisco Church with its glowing altar covered with 600 kilograms of gold, for a special evening concert of traditional Fado. Called “The Soul of Portuguese Music”, Fado is haunting and melodic, often mournful. We were treated to Fado by both a female and a male singer, accompanied by two guitars.

The highlight of our final day in Porto was the remarkable Sao Bento railway station. The vestibule is covered with more that 20,000 blue and white Azulejo tiles, depicting scenes of Portuguese history and transportation.

With fewer than 100 guests on the Scenic Azure (a friendly mix of Brits, Australians, Canadians and Americans), it was easy to get to know fellow travelers. Karen Maher of Scottsdale, Arizona, was on her first ever cruise with her sister. “Portugal kind of spoke to us,” she said. “I loved the activities but wish I’d done even more research on the towns and villages we visited. This was a great starter cruise for me.”

At the other end of the travel spectrum we met Mike and Margaret Metcalfe of Yorkshire, England. They have now completed 90 ocean and 21 river cruises! They travel this way because, “We unpack once and see lots of different places. This Douro cruise is by far the best way to see the scenery of Portugal.” They added that too many people have opinions about cruising without trying it. “There’s something for everyone on ocean and river cruises. But frankly, we prefer smaller ships like this one.”

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan