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Scenic Portugal. Five star service, accommodation and cuisine
Scenic Portugal. Five star service, accommodation and cuisine on the Douro River in Portugal.
By John and Sandra Nowlan
Portugal’s Douro River, winding 130 miles from the city of Porto on the Atlantic coast to the border of Spain, is a remarkable stretch of water. The former rapids have been tamed by a series of five giant dams and the topography is ever-changing. Between the various green hues of olive and almond trees, the views range from pastoral sheep and cattle farms to massive, colorful vineyards climbing in neat rows from the waterline to hundreds of yards high to narrow passages with giant boulders and steep, rocky cliffs on either side.
Scenic Azure in Porto.
Currently there are 22 river cruise ships from several companies that ply the tranquil waters of the Douro from Porto. No one does it better than Scenic, the Australian-owned river cruise company that’s active on all the major European waterways. Our ship, the Scenic Azure, held just 96 guests, at least a dozen fewer than the competition. The ship’s General Manager, Jean-Paul Oliveira, said that Scenic always tries to set the standard for quality. “Our rooms are bigger,” he told us “and we can pay more attention to the needs of our guests. There are no extra costs. Everything is done for them.” Included in the fare are all airport transfers, meals, snacks, wine, bar drinks, tours, laundry and gratuities. For a luxury touch, every suite has the services of a butler.
The butlers are introduced.
All suites, except six on the lower deck, have full length, full width picture windows that lower at the touch of a button. The innovative balcony is actually part of the room, making the area seem more spacious. At night, another button lowers the room-darkening shade. The king size bed is totally adjustable with electric switches to move the mattress up and down. The bathroom includes a large shower enclosure with a half dozen nozzle choices and locations. High end L’Occitane soap, lotion, shampoo and conditioner are standard.
The clever balcony and huge windows.
Dining was a special treat on Scenic Azure. Crystal, the main dining room, has open seating with tables for two to eight guests. Breakfast and lunch were buffet-style (with some specialty items available at lunch, including fresh grilled sardines) but dinner was full service with an extensive menu of Continental and Portuguese dishes. The beef, lamb and pork dishes were superb. Early in the cruise, the fish was not as good as it should have been but, towards the end of the week, the chef told us he changed his supplier. Major improvement!
Imaginative dessert at Table D’Or.
The wines at lunch and dinner were especially good. Seeing all the vineyards along the Douro made us crave local vintages…and the ship delivered. Every evening the sommelier on board chose some wonderful white, red and rosé vintages, all very tasty and ideal for the cuisine. As expected, the selection of Port Wine was extensive with ruby, tawny and late bottles vintage all available. One afternoon the chefs offered a tasting combo of port wine and chocolate truffles. Decadent!
Port wine and chocolate truffles.
Every guest could book an evening at Portobello’s, where the front of the main lounge was turned into an excellent specialty restaurant with unique Portuguese fare and appropriate wines. For Diamond Level guests (Deck 3) an even fancier dinner, called Table D’Or, was offered. Limited to ten guests at a time, two chefs created an exquisite tasting menu with some of the best Douro wines and port. White glove service was provided by the three staff butlers. The Port highlight was a 2010 Ferreira Late Bottled Vintage. Rich, ultra-smooth and fragrant.
The outstanding onboard experience was matched by the scenery and by the excellent tours. Going through the five locks was a unique experience for many guests. One of the dams we traversed had a 115 feet water difference, the highest in Europe.
Approaching the first lock.
Onboard activities included Portuguese tile painting (the fired tiles were returned at the end of the cruise) and the pastry chef demonstrated how to make the unique and decadent Portuguese Custard Tarts. But the main attraction was the Douro River Valley itself (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the art, history and culture of its communities.
Like a painting. Scenery along the Douro.
First stop was Regua, a lively riverside town of 17,000, and its excellent Douro Museum, focusing mainly on the historic Port wine trade. Wine production in the region goes back 2000 years but the name “Port” was not recognized until the late 1600s.
The Wall of Port at the Douro Museum.
The next day a trio of Scenic buses took guests to the early 18th Century Baroque masterpiece, Mateus Palace. The famous rosé wine, no longer made there, is named for this opulent property with its intricately carved wood ceilings and beautifully sculptured gardens.
The Mateus Palace.
The gardens at Mateus Palace.
The last Portuguese village on the Douro is Barca D’Alva where the Scenic Azure had to dock because the Spanish portion of the river lacks locks on its hydro dams. Again, the comfortable Scenic buses took us for an almost two hour ride to the remarkable Spanish city of Salamanca, population 150,000, dating back to the pre-ancient Rome period (Hannibal laid siege to the city in 220 BC). Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city centre boasts Spain’s oldest university and iconic buildings like its 12th Century Romanesque-style Old Cathedral, the 16th Century Casa de las Conchas (covered in symbolic seashells) and the Baroque style City Hall in the largest public square, La Plaza Mayor. Lunch and a Spanish Flamenco Dance show were provided at the nearby Hacienda Zorita, a 700 year old former monastery, now a five star resort. Its wine cellar holds almost 1500 barrels.
Lunchtime entertainment. Flamenco Dancers.
Heading downriver again towards Porto, we stopped at the Portuguese village of Pocinho where three tours were offered – the Coa Valley Museum, a kayak adventure or, our choice, a gourmet almond experience at the Casa Palnova Estate, a 1652 manor house that also produces olive oil and port wine. We were shown how local almonds are opened with small hammers, then how they are roasted in sugar syrup and covered with cinnamon, orange or ginger flavour. Lots of samples!
Cracking almonds the traditional way.
The next day we all took the Scenic buses for a hair-raising climb along narrow, switchback roads to the village of Provesende, a tiny town with stone houses, narrow streets and cobblestone roads. In its heyday it was filled with opulent manor houses, many of which have fallen into ruin, It’s quiet, almost ghostly (a 1573 pillory stands in the town square) but there’s activity at the Paderia Fatima bakery where 200 round loaves are produced daily in an ancient looking, wood-fired oven. In the barn-like basement of a 1680 manor house we were treated to port wine and bolo fresh bread (filled with meat) while surrounded by wine barrels, two of which were car size. It truly was a step back in time.
Back in Porto, our Scenic guides took us to the 14th Century Sao Francisco Church with its glowing altar covered with 600 kilograms of gold, for a special evening concert of traditional Fado. Called “The Soul of Portuguese Music”, Fado is haunting and melodic, often mournful. We were treated to Fado by both a female and a male singer, accompanied by two guitars.
The brilliant fado singer.
The highlight of our final day in Porto was the remarkable Sao Bento railway station. The vestibule is covered with more that 20,000 blue and white Azulejo tiles, depicting scenes of Portuguese history and transportation.
Porto railway station.
With fewer than 100 guests on the Scenic Azure (a friendly mix of Brits, Australians, Canadians and Americans), it was easy to get to know fellow travelers. Karen Maher of Scottsdale, Arizona, was on her first ever cruise with her sister. “Portugal kind of spoke to us,” she said. “I loved the activities but wish I’d done even more research on the towns and villages we visited. This was a great starter cruise for me.”
At the other end of the travel spectrum we met Mike and Margaret Metcalfe of Yorkshire, England. They have now completed 90 ocean and 21 river cruises! They travel this way because, “We unpack once and see lots of different places. This Douro cruise is by far the best way to see the scenery of Portugal.” They added that too many people have opinions about cruising without trying it. “There’s something for everyone on ocean and river cruises. But frankly, we prefer smaller ships like this one.”
Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan
European Christmas Markets with Tauck River Cruises
A European Christmas Markets river cruise should be on everyone’s bucket list. And, there’s no better way to do it than with Tauck.
Itinerary: Vienna, Vienna, Melk, Salzburg/Linz, Passau, Regensburg, Nuremberg
December 2017 - As the saying goes, this was not our first rodeo. And, with a 90-year history of conducting tours and cruises all over the world, it is most certainly not Tauck's first rodeo. Our recent European Christmas Markets Cruise aboard Tauck's ms Savor was our fourth Christmas market river cruise on as many cruise lines in the past three years.
ms savor in vienna
Tauck River Cruises is what we consider a "Luxury" brand. By our definition, a Luxury brand includes most, if not all, excursions in the cruise fare. All cocktails, beer and wine are also included as are gratuities. Of course, the ships must be modern with comfortable accommodations. And, "luxury" means that service levels must be unmatched.
We arrive at ms Savor in Vienna about 10:00 in the morning, several hours before actual embarkation begins (3:00pm). As we arrive at the bottom of the gangway, we are pleasantly surprised to be greeted by Cruise Director, Steve Marchant, whom we immediately recognized. Steve was the Cruise Director on our 2014 Tauck ms Inspire river cruise. Steve welcomed us aboard and offered to let us hang out in the Panorama Lounge until embarkation begins, or, take a taxi into Vienna to do some sightseeing. We chose the latter. Another couple who also arrived early shared a taxi with us, with Tauck picking up the tab. What other cruise line would offer to pay for our taxi into town just because we showed up early?
The Christmas markets in Vienna
When we returned from our time in Vienna (around 12:45pm), Steve informed us that our stateroom was now ready. After a quick check-in at Reception, one of the Reception staff members escorted us to our stateroom (216).
Accommodations
Our Category 6 Cabin was 225 sq. ft. and was nicely laid out and quite comfortable. Even though there is no desk, there is a tall coffee table that can be used as a desk. Two chairs are placed at this table.
Category 6 Cabin
The substantial closet (9) would hold enough clothing for two people for up to two weeks. A storage cabinet (6) with drawers is something you don't find on all river cruise ships. The electronic safe is found in this cabinet.
There is a large sliding glass door with French-style balcony (1) and another floor-to-ceiling window (3) on the opposite side of the cabin. Between the two windows is a flat-screen HD television (2) with good programming choices including CNN, BBC, Sky News, Euro News (What? no Fox News?) and a couple of movie channels. There are also some CCTV channels with safety information, a bow cam, and some On Demand movie channels (complimentary).
Beautifully appointed bathroom
The bathroom (10) is the largest and nicest you will find on any river cruise ship. The very roomy shower stall (11) is outfitted with both a rain shower head and a hand-held wand. An expansive medicine cabinet-style mirror hangs over the sink offering tons of lighted storage for all of your toiletries, cosmetics, etc. There is even more storage under the vanity and above the toilet. A small, magnifying makeup mirror is attached to the interior of the medicine cabinet. Tauck supplies a nice hair dryer and top-quality Molton Brown amenities, including shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and shower gel.
We found the pillow-top, queen-size mattress (4) to be comfortable, but the pillows were a little too soft for our liking. No problem -- a visit to Reception and a request to Simona for firmer pillows quickly resolved that issue. Firmer, foam pillows were delivered to our cabin and were perfect!
More information about Tauck Christmas Markets cruises
Tauck has intelligently included three 110 US-Style outlets. There is one on each bedside table and one by the stateroom door (next to the Vox charging device).
Overall, we found the Category 6 Cabin to be very quiet and very comfortable. Rickee still prefers the Category 3 (Loft) cabin, but I think I prefer the Category 6. They are the same square footage, but laid out differently.
Excursions
The main appeal of river cruising is the included tours in each city/town visited along the river. And, this is one area where Tauck has no real competition. They just do everything to near perfection. Disembarking the ship requires guests to be "swiped out" by presenting their room key to the crew member manning the "reader". This allows ms Savor staff to know who is on board and who is ashore. Upon returning to the ship, each guest presents his/her card to a crew member who "swipes" the card through the reader once again, showing that the guest has returned. It is the most secure system we have seen on a riverboat as each passenger's photo appears on the check-in screen when the card is swiped. Complimentary bottles of water are available at Reception before every excursion, with Tauck thoughtfully offering both small and large bottles.
When motor coaches are required for transport, Tauck uses modern, clean and comfortable coaches. Colored signs in the window of the bus correspond to the color designation of the tour group you have chosen for that excursion.
Tauck continues to provide guests with the Audio Vox receivers for use when on walking tours. Each stateroom has two Vox receivers placed in a charging base by the cabin door. Guests are responsible for making sure the Vox units are always charged and ready to go, a simple matter of placing the Vox units back into the charger when you return to your cabin after an excursion.
Vox receivers in charging base
Another way Tauck sets itself apart from other river cruise lines is the presence of Tauck Tour Directors on each sailing. On our sailing, there were three Tauck Tour Directors overseeing the local excursions. Even though local guides are used on many walking tours, A Tauck Tour Director is never far away should additional support be needed. These Tour Directors also make onboard presentations about local culture and customs.
Jillian, one of the Tour Directors, leads the walk into Nuremberg
Coordinating all of the local tour guides and other activities on board is Tauck Cruise Director, Steve Marchant.
Cruise Director, Steve Marchant
On this Christmas Markets cruise, Tauck included several special events. One such event was a group lunch at St. Peter's Restaurant in Salzburg, perhaps the oldest restaurant in the world! Another special treat was a tour of the Thurn and Taxis palace in Regensburg, which included admission to the palace's private Christmas market.
Tickets to a tour of Thurn and Taxis palace
A tour of Shönbrunn Palace in Vienna, along with a special buffet lunch at Palais Pallavicini, was also included. These are optional excursions on most other river cruise lines, at additional cost. But, Tauck includes them, which is another reason we consider Tauck a "luxury" brand.
Shönbrunn Palace in Vienna
In addition to these special events, Tauck also throws in a few lagniappes (unexpected little extras) along the way. One such lagniappe on our cruise was a gingerbread demonstration and tasting at Cafe Simon in Passau where we were given a decorated gingerbread star to take with us. Another little extra was a coupon for a warm drink at the Christmas Market at Schönbrunn Palace and you even got to keep the decorated mug!
Chef Simon gives a gingerbread demonstration
We also enjoyed the little pillow gifts left on our bed at turndown each evening. It was like Christmas every night!
A glühwein spice mix was one of our pillow gifts and we had pillow chocolates each night
When it comes to excursions, nobody does a better job than Tauck.
Food and Dining
At this point, we should note the special relationship between Tauck and Scylla. All Tauck-branded river cruise ships are owned and operated by Scylla. Therefore, all hotel operations, including Food and Beverage, engineering, and getting the ship from one place to another, are the responsibility of Scylla. Tauck basically handles all of the excursions and guest activities. It is a unique partnership that leverages the skills and assets of each company, and it works seamlessly.
Elegant seating in Compass Rose
As with most river cruise ships, the main dining room, Compass Rose, is located on Deck 1 forward. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style with a few á la carté items available at breakfast. Dinner is available from 6:30pm until 8:30pm on most nights and is open seating. Unlike the dining policy on many river cruise ships where there is only one time for dinner, on Tauck you can dine any time within that two-hour window. So, there is no mad rush to the dining room when the restaurant opens like we've experienced on other ships.
Fruit and desserts on the lunch buffet in Compass Rose
Breakfast each morning in Compass Rose features a variety of fruit, cereals, breads and pastries. Scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage are available from the buffet. An eggs-cooked-to-order station is available where you can get omelets or fried eggs cooked to your specifications. Eggs Benedict and pancakes are available from an á la carté menu on the table and ordered from your waiter. Rickee tried the Eggs Benedict and they were perfectly poached.
Salad bar at Compass Rose
Lunch items change each day and include a nice salad bar, some sort of sandwich, a couple of hot entrées and side dishes, soup and a carving station. Dinner menus change each evening and offer a variety of starters, main courses and desserts. The Gala Dinner, held one evening during the cruise, it not to be missed.
The Gala Dinner was a multi-course, elaborate meal with some impressive offerings. The Smoked Duck Breast starter was especially nice.
Smoked duck breast at Gala Dinner
Overall, the food served in Compass Rose falls into the "good to very good" range. Service from the wait staff was excellent. Complimentary red and white wines were offered each evening, and were also very good. When I mentioned to my waiter that I preferred a Reisling instead of Savignon Blanc, he did not hesitate to fill my glass with a very nice German Reisling.
Enjoying our table for two in Compass Rose
There are only two two-top tables in Compass Rose, one on each side of the dining room. However, because guests have the option to dine any time between 6:30pm and 8:30pm, there are usually enough four-top tables available allowing you to dine alone if you wish.
Sample lunch menu in Compass Rose
Tauck is the only river cruise line on which we have sailed that offers an alternative dining venue that is open all day long, from 11am until 11pm. Arthur's is located aft on Deck 3 and starts each day with an Early Riser breakfast at 6:00am.
Early Riser breakfast at Arthur's
A selection of cereals, yogurt, fruits, cheeses, meats, juices and pastries is available each morning in Arthur's. There is an automatic coffee machine available 24 hours-a-day along with a very nice selection of tea. Cookies are always available for the taking.
Coffee machine at Arthur's
At lunchtime (beginning at 11am), Arthur's offers a lunch menu with a choice of sandwiches, flatbreads, burgers, salads and soups.
Lunch menu at Arthur's
In the evening, the dinner menu at Arthur's changes to offer a steakhouse-style menu with a variety of steaks, chops, chicken and fish. One item that spans both lunch and dinner menus is the Goulash Soup, a spicy and rich broth with chunks of beef and a flavor reminiscent of Texas chili. It was delicious and a good way to warm up on a cold winter day!
Casual seating at breakfast and lunch in Arthur's
There is also a full bar in Arthur's, making it a great place to go for a drink, even if you don't want to have a meal.
The bar at Arthur’s
Arthur's is a great concept offering an all-day dining alternative to Compass Rose.
Bars and Lounges
The Panorama Lounge is the main lounge on ms Savor. It is located forward on Deck 3, just forward of Reception. The elegant decor of Panorama Lounge is reflective of other Tauck/Scylla river ships on which we have sailed.
Panorama Lounge
Seating is very comfortable and there are expansive, scenic views of the landscape as the ship sails the rivers of Europe. The bar is located in the front half of the lounge, with a few smaller tables in front of the bar.
ms Savor Bar
Tauck river cruises are all-inclusive, so there is no need to sign a ticket for cocktails, beer or wine as all drinks are included in the cruise fare. The quality of cocktails is unmatched, anywhere. There is a house sparkling wine, or, you can order a glass of Moet & Chandon Champagne. My Crown Royal (below) pour was nearly double what was delivered on another river cruise line, and I was paying $7.50 per drink on that cruise! And, on Tauck, if you want a double, just ask for it. The price is the same!
As you can see from the photo above, there are mixed nuts on each table in a proper "pour out" bottle. There is a Cocktail Hour each evening before dinner where waiters/esses circulate with trays of delicious hors d' oeuvres. A "premium" cruise line may offer hors d' oeuvres once or twice per cruise, but a "luxury" cruise line, like Tauck, does so each evening. This is a pretty big deal for us because we often don't go to dinner. We can eat two or three of the hors d' oeuvres and be set for the night.
As mentioned previously, there is also a full bar located aft on Deck 3 in Arthur's. So, if you prefer a smaller, more intimate spot to enjoy your favorite beverage, you have that option.
Entertainment
As with any river cruise, the main form of entertainment is the destination and the excursions. However, Tauck provides guests with an array of onboard activities and entertainment. There is a resident pianist who plays in Panorama Lounge each evening after dinner and during Cocktail Hour. A small dance floor allows those who so desire to "cut a rug."
In Regensburg, we were treated to an acapella concert by Spitzweig Quartet. They performed a series of Christmas songs in both German and English. When we returned to our stateroom that evening, a CD of their music was waiting for us on our bed!
One afternoon, there was a gingerbread house decorating competition in Panorama Lounge. Each "team" was given a kit with pre-formed gingerbread pieces and instructions. Candies and a piping bag filled with icing were provided for construction and decorations.
Gingerbread house "kit"
Team members start building the house by using the icing to "glue" the pieces together.
Then, pieces of colorful candy, and more icing, are used to decorate the house.
Rickee's team members and their gingerbread house
At the end, each team's gingerbread house was put on display in the Reception area for everyone to admire. Rickee said it was the most fun activity she has ever had on a cruise ship!
Another fun activity was when Tauck gave each guest 10 Euros to purchase a Christmas ornament at one of the Christmas markets we visited. These ornaments would be placed on the Christmas tree in the Reception area. We all gathered one evening to place the ornaments we purchased on the tree. Christmas music was playing and hot beverages were served along with Christmas snacks. It was such fun! At the end of the cruise, each guest got to take his/her ornament home with them.
If you are one of those who cannot go a week without exercise, there is a nicely-equipped Fitness Center on Deck 1, and even a steam room and sauna! There is a hair salon on Deck 1 for those who want additional pampering.
Fitness Center
Although not used on this cruise due to cold weather, the Sun Deck (top deck) has a hot tub and golf putting green. It is important to note that there is an elevator that travels between decks.
The Tauck Experience
The dress code is casual with one opportunity to "dress up" at the Gala Dinner. During the day, I wore blue jeans, vest, jacket and flannel shirts. After 5pm, it is suggested that guests not wear shorts or jeans in the public areas or dining room, a non-existent issue on this sailing with temperatures in the 30s most days. Umbrellas are provided in each cabin as well as at Reception; however, packing a small portable umbrella is advisable.
River cruising, in general, tends to attract a mature crowd, and the guests on Tauck fit this description. You will rarely find families with small children on a river cruise and, there were none on this sailing. Tauck does offer river cruise itineraries designed specifically for families.
Tauck delivers an all-inclusive experience that includes gratuities and beverages in the cruise fare. Depending on the package you purchase, it may also include a pre-/post-cruise hotel stay and airfare. This can make Tauck a very good value compared to other river cruise products. Gratuities on other river cruises can be as much as $20 per day/per person. On this sailing, that would be $280 for two people! An unlimited drink package on another popular river cruise line costs another $20 per day, so add another $280. Tauck also includes special events and meals off the boat that would easily cost you several hundred dollars on other cruise lines.
WHAT'S INCLUDED
Cruise accommodations
All meals on board
Special events and meals off the boat
All excursions
All gratuities
Airport transfers
Soft drinks, bottled water, beer, wine and liquor
Premium spirits
Complimentary use of bicycles when docked
Complimentary WiFi
WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED
Incidentals (gifts, postcards, postage, etc.
Salon services (hair, nails, massage)
One important thing should not be overlooked, considering that this was billed as a "Christmas Markets" cruise. Of the four Christmas Markets river cruises we have enjoyed, none evoked the feeling and spirit of Christmas as completely as this Tauck cruise. Everywhere you looked, there were beautifully decorated Christmas trees, greenery and ornaments.
From this vantage point, you can see three Christmas trees!
Even the handrails were wrapped with Christmas bows and decorations.
The gingerbread house display in Panorama Lounge was also very special.
Tauck Tour Director, Zophia, is all wrapped up in a bow for Christmas
And, of course, Cruise Director, Steve Marchant is not going to be outdone. He wore a different colorful Christmas sweater each day.
Tauck also puts a lot of emphasis on giving to those less fortunate. There is a Giving Tree in the lobby and guests are encouraged to purchase gifts or necessities (diapers, clothing) etc. for children up to the age of six and place these unwrapped gifts under the tree in the Reception area. In addition to the presents, Tauck contributes 200€ to the charity.
Gifts donated by Tauck guests on this sailing
Summary
We have been singing the praises of Tauck River Cruising for years. So, we were not surprised when this cruise lived up to our high expectations. This was our 15th European river cruise and our fourth Christmas Markets cruise (on four different cruise lines). Every Christmas Markets cruise we have taken has been enjoyable. But, none has evoked the feeling of Christmas like the ms Savor cruise. If you love Christmas and want to immerse yourself in the Christmas spirit, take a Tauck Christmas Markets river cruise!
Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson are luxury cruise and travel journalists for CruiseReport.com
Christmas Markets Cruise on Avalon Waterways
We get to enjoy our first cruise with Avalon Waterways during the Christmas Markets in Europe!
Itinerary: Prague, Nuremberg, Nuremberg, Regensburg, Salzburg/Linz, Melk, Vienna
December 2017 - This was our first time sailing on Avalon Waterways, bringing our total number of European river cruise line experiences to 14 cruises across five different brands over the past ten years. This was also our fourth European Christmas Markets cruise. In case you are unfamiliar with the event, Christmas markets in Europe can be found in most towns, and were present in every town we visited along the Danube. Vendors set up small stands from which to sell their handmade (and sometimes imported) handicrafts, ornaments, food items, clothing, etc. Towns in Europe really go all out when it comes to decorating for Christmas making this an excellent destination for those who love to be immersed in anything Christmas.
Christmas Market Vendors
We would categorize Avalon Waterways in the "Premium" river cruise category, comparable to Viking River Cruises and AMA Waterways, other "Premium" brands on which we have sailed. In our opinion, a "Premium" river cruise is one that has modern ships, complimentary excursions in every town/port, comfortable accommodations, and complimentary WiFi on board.
Rickee boards Avalon Vista in Nuremberg
We boarded Vista in the festively decorated Reception area where a line of staff waited to greet us and invite us into the Panorama Lounge to relax before check-in.
Check-in was simple. We dropped our passports at Reception, then one of the stewards grabbed our hand luggage and escorted us to our stateroom (323).
Robert shows us how to use the electronic key
Accommodations
Our Category P Panorama Suite was more like a stateroom than a suite. At 200 sq. ft., it is large for a river cruise ship stateroom, but calling it a suite is a bit of a stretch. It was, however, one of the most uniquely laid out staterooms we have seen. The interior wall of the bathroom is angled, which causes the bed to be positioned at an angle.
Bed is angled, facing toward the river
The outside wall of the stateroom is made entirely of glass and, with the curtains open, you have an almost completely unobstructed view of the river and passing landscape. The wall of glass is actually made in three sections, two of which will slide open, great for leaning out to take photos! A solid rail keeps you from falling into the river.
Closet, desk and sofa
A nice-sized desk is big enough for my laptop and a few other gadgets. However, electrical outlets are hard to find. There is only one 220 outlet on the desk, and one next to the nightstand on the opposite side of the room. There were no 110 (US-Style) outlets, so you will need to bring adapters (220 Euro-style to 110 US-Style.) Adapters are available from Reception if you don't have one. There are no USB charging ports, something that every river cruise line should have added by now. There is a desk lamp that can be unplugged to free up an additional 220 Euro-style outlet.
The are a couple of shallow shelves on the left-hand side of the desk behind a door. They are shallow because of an HVAC vent that occupies the back 8 inches or so of the desk (you can see the vent in the photo above). Apparently, the duct for the vent is behind the desk. On the right-hand side of the desk is a mini-fridge/mini-bar stocked with a variety of beverages and snacks (not complimentary). A small sofa, coffee table and chair are at the end of the desk. Complimentary bottled water is placed on the coffee table. There is a closet with an electronic safe. Since there are no drawers to speak of, storage space is somewhat limited.
Marble bathroom and L'Occitane amenities
Other than the limited storage space and lack of electrical outlets, we found the Category P stateroom to be one of the most comfortable of any river cruise ship. The stateroom was well-insulated, making it super quiet. We never heard our neighbors, and since Avalon has a "no announcement" policy, we were never disturbed by voices over the PA system. The mattress was one of the most comfortable we have found on a river cruise ship. The standard memory foam mattress topper made it feel like we were sleeping on a cloud! We would like to see USB charging ports added, and more hooks! You can never have too many hooks to hang jackets, caps, scarves, etc. That said, we would give the Category P a solid 4.5-out-of-5 rating.
Excursions and Activities
Avalon Waterways includes an excursion in each town/city we visited. There are optional excursions available in some cities at additional cost such as an evening concert in Vienna. The optional excursions were reasonably priced. Clean modern motor coaches were used to shuttle guests from the ship to the walking portion of the excursions.
Motor coaches were clean, modern and comfortable
Portable audio devices are available in the Panorama Lounge before each tour and are different colors. Guests taking the walking tours are divided into groups of 15 to 25, based on which color of audio device they selected. This color corresponds to the color of the flag the local guide was holding. Guests could choose to be in the "red" group one day, or the "green" group the next, and so on. Avalon also offered a "Gentle Walkers" group for those who may have mobility issues, or simply choose to go at a slower pace.
Color-coded audio receivers
Most modern river cruise operators now use these portable audio devices. They allow guests to hear the tour guide through an earpiece, making it unnecessary for the guide to yell information. The devices have a pretty good range, so if you want to drop back a few hundred feet to take photos without a crowd, you can still hear the tour guide. One advantage of the color-coded audio devices is that guests never had to fumble with setting a channel to match the transmitter used by the guide. The devices were pre-set.
Tour guides carry a colored flag
The color-coded system works really well. If you forget which group you are in, just look at the color of your audio device. Then, look for the guide carrying that color flag. There is a color-coded sign in the window of the motor coach, too, so you will always get back on the correct bus!
We found the excursions to be very good. In Regensburg, Avalon gave us complimentary tickets to the Thurn & Taxis Christmas Market (7.50€ per ticket). This "private" Christmas market is set up on the grounds of the Thurn and Taxis Palace and was one of our favorite Christmas markets we visited during our two-week assignment. It was here we found more local craftsman and handmade items than at some of the other markets.
Thurn and Taxis Christmas Market
Avalon also provided us with vouchers for a meal at the historic Wurstkütcht (Sausage Kitchen) located on the south bank of the Danube at the Old Stone Bridge.
Sausage Kitchen in Regensburg
Whenever we visit Regensburg, we always try to visit the Sausage Kitchen. They simply have the best sausages in the world. So, when Avalon gave us vouchers for a free meal, we were delighted! It is the first time any cruise line has done that. The voucher paid for a plate of six sausages, sauerkraut, one roll and one beer or Coke. So, once you are seated and have placed and received your order, the way it works at the Sausage Kitchen is as follows:
Grab one of the crusty rolls from the basket on the table
Slice it open
Place 3 sausages on the roll
Slather on some of the sweet honey-mustard
Consume
Repeat steps 1 thru 5 (but be aware that each additional crusty roll you consume costs .90€!)
Sausages and sauerkraut
Now, in all honesty, we would have visited the Sausage Kitchen anyway, but it was a nice treat to have Avalon pay for our meal!
Food and Dining
As with most modern river boats in Europe, the main restaurant is located on Deck 1, forward. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style and dinner is full menu service, a' la carté dining, complete with white tablecloths and linen napkins.
The Dining Room
There are six two-top tables for those couples who prefer a more intimate dining experience; however, the four that are located in the center of the dining room have very little space between the two-top and the adjoining four-top, so it is almost like dining at a six-top table. If you want more separation from your fellow diners, opt for one of the two-top tables near the entrance into the dining room.
The breakfast buffet offers anything you could want including fruits, cereals, breads, pastries, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, etc. There is an eggs/omelette cooked-to-order station in the center of the buffet line. You can also order Eggs Benedict or daily specials from your waiter. Something you will not find on any other river cruise ship, or at least the ones on which we have sailed, is a huge honeycomb!
Honeycomb available at breakfast
Lunch buffet selections change each day and there is a carving station, and a fresh pasta station, in the center of the buffet line.
Carving station
During breakfast and lunch, guests can start at each end of a semi-oval buffet line and they ultimately meet in the middle where the traffic can get pretty crazy. The design of the buffet can result in traffic jams. One problem is that there are different items on each side of the buffet and, rather than go to the end of the opposite line and wait their turn, when guests complete the first line they just jump in and grab whatever item they want on the opposite line, often in front of guests already in line.
The food was quite good, certainly as good as we have found on any other river cruise. Our advice: arrive early and beat the crowd!
Daily menus are posted at entrance to the Dining Room
During breakfast and lunch, waiters are on hand to deliver your drinks or take orders for á la carté selections. Complimentary red and white wines, beer, and soft drinks are offered at lunch and dinner. Sparkling wine is available in the mornings to make your own Mimosa. We found the wines offered to be of good quality and a nice variety was available.
An early-riser breakfast is available in the Club Lounge on Deck 3 aft, and in the main lounge each morning. I should also point out that the coffee served throughout the ship is very good, and that is something you don't usually find on any cruise vessel.
The Club Lounge has a 24-hour coffee and tea station and was the perfect spot for my early morning coffee workstation.
Coffee and tea available 24 hours a day in Club Lounge
Something we have not seen on any other river cruise is an Afternoon Tea. Around 4pm each day, there is a very nice selection of cakes, macarons and finger sandwiches available in the forward part of the Panorama Lounge. They even offered glühwein each day at tea time on our cruise. The finger sandwiches are some of the best we have had on any ship.
Typical afternoon tea treats
An alternative lunch venue was set up in the forward part of Panorama Lounge, serving a lighter fare. As an alternative to dinner in the Dining Room, Avalon offers The Bistro, an 11-course wine/food pairing "experience" served in the Panorama Lounge. The Bistro was only available on three nights during our sailing, so we made sure to get our names on the reservation list early. A maximum of 30 guests can be served each evening in The Bistro.
Four wines served during The Bistro meal
The 11 courses served at The Bistro are tapas-style, almost like a tasting menu. There is a variety of seafood, beef and vegetable dishes served. To be honest, we felt some of the dishes were a little too ambitious for a river cruise ship galley.
One of the courses served at The Bistro
The food was good, but no better than what we experienced in the Dining Room. However, it is a much quieter, more peaceful dining experience than the Dining Room, which could get quite noisy when full of guests since there is only one seating for dinner. If you are on an Avalon Waterways cruise, you should definitely try The Bistro at least one time during your cruise. There is no charge for this unique experience.
Overall, we found the food and dining to be on par with other Premium river cruise lines. We always like to point out that rating food is difficult because taste is so subjective.
Bar Service
The Panorama Lounge is located on Deck 2 forward and is very nicely laid out with comfortable furnishings and tasteful, contemporary decor. One of the nicest features of the lounge is the virtually unobstructed panoramic view provided by the surrounding floor-to-ceiling windows.
The Panorama Lounge
The bar is located at the back of the lounge, near the entrance, and is stocked with virtually any adult beverage you could ever want. The price for cocktails is on par with other Premium river cruise lines.
A Crown Royal (neat) was 6.30€ (about $7.50 US) for only 1.36 oz., which is a little on the skimpy side. A 1.5 to 2 ounce pour for a whisky neat is more common. House sparkling wine (3.38 oz.) was the best value at only 3.70€ (about $4.35 US), and it was quite good.
A 1.36 oz Crown Royal is 6.30€
A better value is Happy Hour which occurs each evening for an hour before the daily briefing. During Happy Hour, all drinks are half price! Bar service from the wait staff was very attentive. And, there are two occasions where you can enjoy a complimentary glass of sparkling wine: the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Reception, held on the evening of embarkation, and the Captain's Farewell Reception, on the last night of the cruise. Waiters circulate with trays of sparkling wine and, if you drink fast, you might even get a second glass! These two receptions are also the only evenings where waiters serve a selection of hors d'oeuvres.
The lounge also has a large wooden dance floor in the center of the room. Piano music is played each evening during Happy Hour and after dinner. The resident pianist was one of the best we have heard on any river cruise.
Entertainment
We have already mentioned the piano player in the Panorama Lounge each day during afternoon tea, happy hour and in the evenings. In addition, it seemed there was always some special event going on each day in the lounge. One afternoon, we enjoyed a Christmas cookie demonstration and tasting.
In Regensburg, we were treated to an excellent onboard acapella Christmas concert performed by Spitzweig quartet, former members of the Regensburg Boys Choir.
Spitzweig Quartet
Earlier that same evening, we enjoyed a Bavarian Beer Tasting in the lounge where we had the opportunity to try four different Bavarian craft beers and learn all about how different beers are made.
Rickee toasts with one of the Bavarian beers
Overall, our Avalon Vista cruise was one of the best we have experienced in the area of entertainment offerings.
Other Ship Features
Avalon guests enjoy complimentary WiFi/Internet. The WiFi worked about as well as on any river cruise...that is to say, poorly. It is just the nature of the beast. Whenever river ships go under bridges, go through locks (there were 23 on this cruise), or even narrow valleys with steep hills, satellite communications (Internet and TV) can get interrupted. We also experienced a two-day "blackout" near the end of our cruise when we had no Internet or TV due to "technical difficulties."
The Daily Newsletter for the following day is placed on the bed each evening during turn-down service, along with a map of the next place we are to visit. The newsletter is very well organized and gives a chronological view of the day's activities along with weather updates and local destination information.
For those so inclined, there is a small Fitness Center on Deck 1 with treadmills, stationary bicycles and a few free weights. Towels and bottled water are provided in there. A beauty salon is located on Deck 1 where, in addition to salon services, you can also get a massage. There is an elevator to use to move from deck to deck.
Before disembarking the ship for an excursion there was complimentary bottled water available for guests to take with them.
A bin with umbrellas was available for guest use.
A pad of tear-off maps showing details of the local area were also available at Reception, which is great for those of us who like to get off the ship and explore the town on foot.
On our cruise, the weather prohibited visits to the Sun Deck, other than to quickly go up to take some pictures. But, you can see that in warmer weather, this space would get a lot of use. There is a hot tub, one of the obligatory large chess sets that I have yet to see anyone use on any river cruise, and lots of covered and uncovered lounge seating.
Since this was a Christmas Markets cruise, the ship was nicely decorated for Christmas. There were Christmas trees in the Panorama Lounge, Reception and Club Lounge, and ornamentation in every public space. It really helped to put the spirit of Christmas in the air.
Staff and Service
We found the entire crew to be very friendly and always willing to go out of their way to offer assistance. Cruise Director, Tony, is a river cruise veteran and did a great job of keeping everything moving smoothly. The housekeeping department kept our stateroom, and the rest of the ship, spotlessly clean during our cruise.
Tony and Rickee
Summary
We would not hesitate to recommend Avalon Waterways to anyone considering a European river cruise. Comfortable accommodations, an excellent, caring staff, good food, exceptional entertainment and well-conducted excursions combine to make Avalon Waterways a real contender in the rapidly expanding river cruise market. The no-smoking and no-announcement policies enhance the onboard experience. We look forward to experiencing Avalon Waterways again!
Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson are luxury cruise and travel journalists for CruiseReport.com
Rhine Getaway on Viking Alruna
Viking River Cruises continues to impress with the best hardware on the rivers of Europe and great service.
Itinerary: Basel, Breisach, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Koblenz, Cologne, Kinderdijk, Amsterdam
The Assignment
This assignment took us on a seven-night cruise from Basel, Switzerland, to Amsterdam on Viking Longship Alruna, one of the newest longships in the Viking fleet. This was our second sailing aboard a Viking Longship, the first being aboard Viking Hlin in 2014 on the Danube River.
Viking Alruna
Pre-Cruise
We arrived in Basel the day before embarkation. For overseas cruises, we like to spend one or two days in a hotel before embarkation to overcome the jet lag and explore the city of embarkation, which often gets overlooked by the embarking guests. Also, in the event of an airline delay or flight cancellation, by going in a day or two early, we are less likely to miss a sailing. This is our third visit to Basel and we chose to spend one night at the Swissôtel Le Plaza. Basel may not be the most picturesque city in Switzerland, but it is definitely worth a two-night stay if you can arrange it.
Swissôtel Le Plaza, Basel
A few days before we were scheduled to depart the USA, we received an email from Viking River Cruises informing us that, due to technical difficulties, Viking Alruna would not be able to embark guests in Basel. Instead, the boat would be in Breisach, Germany, (about 40 miles north of Basel) and Viking Cruises would provide a shuttle from Basel to Breisach on the morning of embarkation. The email also indicated that we had the option of joining a Basel walking tour on the morning before the transfer to Breisach. We decided to join the walking tour, which was quite informative and enjoyable. Viking Cruises did a very good job of dealing with a schedule change.
Basel Walking Tour
Embarkation
After the Basel walking tour, guests boarded the motorcoach for the 45-minute drive to Breisach, Germany, where Viking Alruna was ready and waiting for us. Upon arrival, we step aboard Viking Alruna on Deck 2 and are greeted by Hotel Manager, Evelyn Kolditz, who, after looking at our passports, checked us in and handed us our stateroom keys. But wait a minute, we were supposed to be in an odd-numbered cabin and now we are in an even-numbered cabin. What's up? As it turns out, we got upgraded to a Veranda Suite! I suspect that this is because the boat only had 93 guests on this sailing which is less than half full.
Reception Desk on Viking Alruna
The entire check-in process took less than three minutes. Viking has the process down to a science and guests never have to wait in a long line to check-in. When we enter our stateroom, we find that our luggage has already been delivered since it had been transported by truck from the hotel.
Viking Alruna
Viking Alruna is the newest boat in the Viking Longship fleet, having made only four sailings prior to ours. Of course, everything is shiny and new. But, with the housekeeping and maintenance that Viking has in place, the boat will look brand new for years to come. All Viking Longships share the same basic design and layout. We were told by a crew member that you can tell the Longships apart by looking at the picture hanging at the top of the lobby staircase.
The Viking Lounge
The Viking Lounge is the most visited place on any Viking Longship. Located forward on Deck 3, the lounge is bright and light with soothing colors, leather seating surfaces and a decidedly contemporary Scandinavian decor. There is a large well-stocked bar at the back wall and a small dance floor in front of the bar. Off to one side of the dance floor is a piano where Stefan entertains guests each evening and during lunchtime.
The lounge is where guests congregate for daily briefings, evening entertainment, or just to relax, enjoy a cocktail and watch the riverscape go by. The floor-to-ceiling windows that line both sides of the lounge offer unprecedented views of the river. Furnishings, carpeting and all surfaces are of the highest quality and give the lounge a very rich feel. The Viking Lounge would be our pick as the best lounge of any river cruise boat on which we have sailed.
Aquavit Terrace
Viking Longships are immediately recognizable by the Aquavit Terrace located at the bow of the boat, just forward of the Viking Lounge. Aquavit Terrace is an indoor/outdoor alternate dining venue where guests can enjoy a casual lunch, dinner or continental breakfast.
Aquavit Terrace is very intelligently designed with collapsible glass wall panels that can be opened on sunny, bright days, and closed in the event of inclement weather. No other river cruise boat offers al fresco dining at the bow of the boat, at least none we are aware of.
Library/Internet Cafe
On Deck 3, just above the Reception Desk, there is a small, but very nicely stocked, library with a comfortable seating area. Opposite the library is the boat's "Internet Cafe" with two computers available for guest use. All guests have complimentary WiFi Internet access and complimentary use of the computers.
Reception/Gift Shop
Located on Deck 2, the Reception area is where you embark and disembark the vessel. There is someone at the Reception Desk 24 hours a day to assist guests. Directly across from Reception is a "gift shop" which is actually a wall of shelves and racks filled with Viking logo items.
Also located in the Reception/Lobby area is a Concierge Desk. Yes, all Viking Longships have a Concierge! The Concierge can assist guests with restaurant recommendations/reservations in the towns visited along the river, make transportation arrangements, and provide a host of other concierge-like tasks.
The Restaurant
Located forward on Deck 2, The Restaurant is Viking Alruna's main dining room. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served here.
The Restaurant is designed with large tables to seat 6, 8 or 10 guests. There is a buffet/serving station located in the center of The Restaurant which is used for breakfast and lunch buffet service. Like the rest of the boat, The Restaurant is decorated in light wood and beige tones and reflects the same Scandinavian style.
Coffee Bar
Another great feature of a Viking Longship is the coffee bar, or coffee bars, as there are actually two of them. The coffee bars are located at the top of the staircase on Deck 3, just above Reception and at the entrance to the Viking Lounge. Each coffee station has an automated coffee/espresso machine where guests can get hot tea, a cup of coffee or hot chocolate 24 hours a day. In the morning, a selection of pastries is available. In the afternoons, delicious cookies are there for the taking. Go ahead, grab a few, nobody is counting!
Sun Deck
Every European river cruise boat has a "Sun Deck." But, only Viking Longships have a living herb garden on their Sun Decks! And yes, the chef uses the herbs grown here in some of the dishes he prepares.
Of course, the Sun Deck is much more than herbs. This is the place to be on a beautiful day as Viking Alruna sails up or down the Rhine River. The expansive deck is covered with plush Astroturf and there are dozens of lounge chairs for relaxing in the sun or under one of the many canopies.
Herb Gardem
At the aft end of the Sun Deck you will find the aforementioned herb garden flanked by a shuffleboard court and golf putting greens.
Accommodations
Our Veranda Suite (304) was the forwardmost cabin on Deck 3. Our unexpected upgrade gave us an opportunity to compare the Veranda Suite to Viking's Category A/B Veranda Stateroom, which we occupied on Viking Hlin in 2014. Even the smallest Viking staterooms are comfortable and well designed. As you might expect, the Veranda Suite is quite a bit larger. At 275 sq. ft., the Veranda Suite (Cat AA) is quite an upgrade from the 205 sq. ft. of the Veranda Stateroom (Cat A or B).
Veranda Suite Living Room (notice the 'cubbies')
The Veranda Suite is one of the most intelligently designed "suites" we have occupied on any cruise vessel. Alruna's (and all Longships for that matter) designers have squeezed the most use out of 275 sq. ft. The separate living room can be closed off from the bedroom allowing an early riser like me to watch TV or work on my computer without disturbing a late riser like Rickee. There is a small desk in the living room, but it is plenty large enough for a laptop workstation. My favorite feature? Cubbies are everywhere surrounding the desk. These little cubbies can be used to store cameras, sunglasses, caps, binoculars, cell phones, etc. They are extremely handy and were quickly filled with all of our travel gadgets.
Every stateroom is equipped with two QuietVox personal communication devices (in a recharging station) for guest use on excursions. Fresh fruit is replenished daily as is bottled water. Instead of using plastic bottles of water, Viking has employed the use of glass bottles which they refill with fresh water each day. We found the decanted water to taste very good.
Bottled water is replenished daily
The attention to detail in the Veranda Suite (and really, throughout the entire boat) is as good as we have seen in 15 years of cruising. A small shelf under the flat screen televisions (one in the bedroom and one in the living room) has two USB outlets above it and is just wide enough to place a cell phone or pocket camera to recharge them. Someone really put some thought into that.
Small shelf under television and USB charging ports
The Veranda Suite utilizes a very unique lighting system. There are light switches/buttons located throughout the suite which have a series of pre-set lighting configurations. Selecting a bright daytime, dim daytime, bright evening, dim evening allows you to set the mood in the bedroom and/or living room with a single touch. Of course, you can fine tune the lighting using up and down arrow buttons.
Unique lighting controls
There is a sofa, chair and coffee table in the living room. One end of the sofa is an ottoman which performs double duty as a desk chair. The other end of the sofa is where you will find a small table with a pull out cube tucked beneath it that can be used for additional seating. A small mini-fridge is located behind a door in the bottom part of a cabinet where you can store soft drinks, beer or wine. And, there are two more drawers below the cabinet surface to use for storage. There is NO wasted space in this suite. A full-length mirror next to the entry door is a nice touch as are the hooks placed on the door to hang coats and hats.
Bar in Veranda Suite
Moving to the bedroom, the king-sized bed (which can also be configured as two twin beds) is dressed with quality linens. There is a lot of room under the bed to stow your luggage once you have unpacked. However, we did not find the mattress to be as comfortable as we remembered from our Hlin sailing. The closet has more than enough storage space for two weeks of river cruising. It would be nice if they added some hangers with clips for hanging pants. One of the four drawers in the closet has an electronic safe to store valuables. All closet doors and drawers throughout the suite have soft-closing dampers to prevent the annoyance of slamming doors and drawers.
King-size bed
There are two bedside tables, one with a small drawer and cubby underneath and the other with two nice-sized drawers and a pull out shelf. There was also a plug located above each nightstand which came in handy for charging a cell phone or iPad. The flat-screen HD television is mounted on the wall across from the bed and has decent programming choices including BBC World News, CNN International, Sky Sports, CNBC Europe, TNT, Nat Geo and Sport 1, etc. On our sailing, the bridge cam and lounge cam were not functioning, even though we could get the audio from the lounge cam channel.
TV Programming menu
The bathroom is very nicely laid out with a larger than expected shower stall with beautiful ceramic tile walls. The large vanity has lots of storage including a small medicine cabinet on one wall that was large enough to hold all of Rickee's creams, lotions and potions. There were additional shelves on the left side of the mirror and also below the vanity. The plush towels are very high quality. The L'Occitane bathroom amenities that we loved on Viking Hlin in 2014 have been replaced with Viking's own brand, Freyja, named for the Torsten Hagen's grandmother. We found the Freyja products to be high quality. Bathrobes and slippers are available upon request. A nice addition that would make this a perfect bathroom would be a magnifying makeup/shaving mirror.
Freyja bathroom amenities
As you would expect, the Veranda Suite also has a full balcony with two chairs and small table accessible via a sliding glass door in the living room. In the bedroom, there is another sliding glass door opening to a "French-style" balcony.
Full balcony and French balcony (left) in Veranda Suite
Now that we have had the unexpected pleasure of occupying the Veranda Suite, we are spoiled for anything else! If you are trying to decide which category of stateroom to book, treat yourself and go for the Veranda Suite.
Food and Dining
We have noticed a continual improvement in the quality of food on Viking River Cruises over the years we have been covering them. With each and every sailing, we notice something new and improved. Guests can enjoy a casual continental breakfast in Aquavit Terrace each morning starting at 6:00am. The term "casual" may be misleading, as all dining on a Viking River cruise is casual. A full breakfast buffet is offered each morning in The Restaurant from 7:00am until 9:30am (times may vary depending on the day's activities). There is an omelette station where a chef will create your favorite omelette with a variety of fresh ingredients. You can also order pancakes, waffles or egg dishes (including Eggs Benedict) a la carte from a menu. On the buffet, you will find a variety of fruits, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, breads, cereals. You can also enjoy a Mimosa made with orange juice and Viking's sparkling wine.
Continental Breakfast Buffet in Aquavit Terrace
At lunchtime (typically served at noon), The Restaurant once again offers a salad, soup and sandwich buffet. A choice of a la minute entrees is available from your waiter. You may also choose to dine in Aquavit Terrace where a smaller buffet is available with soup, salads, sandwiches and hot entrees. This quickly became our favorite place to enjoy lunch as there are a few two-top tables here and if the glass doors are open, you can enjoy the fresh air.
Table for two in Aquavit Terrace
For dinner, The Restaurant typically begins seating guests at 7pm and it is recommended that you show up at that designated time. There are no assigned tables or seating so you dine with whomever you choose. In the evenings, a full menu service is offered with a variety of dishes that change daily. There are a few 'always available' items like the rib eye steak, chicken breast and pasta dish. The rib eye has replaced the NY Strip that was on the menu during our Viking Hlin cruise in 2014. Personally, I preferred the NY Strip served with the three dipping sauces. But, the rib eye is still a good choice, topped with a chimichurri sauce.
Delicious dessert creations served in The Restaurant
At the Captain's Welcome Dinner, guests were invited to select a table and dine with a member of the Senior Staff seated there. I don't recall this from previous Viking sailings, but it is a very nice touch. We enjoyed a fun and delicious meal with our Program Director, Dewi (pronounced Day-Wee), who is from the Netherlands.
Captain's Welcome Dinner with our hostess, Program Director, Dewi
A casual dinner is offered in Aquavit Terrace from 7:00pm each evening which features a starter plate of Norwegian specialties, said to be some of Viking CEO Torsten Hagen's favorites. A carmelized, brown cheese named Gudbrandsdalen (say that three times real fast!) that is slightly sweet and delicious was our favorite. A salmon dip, crab dip and marinated shrimps were also very good. There is a soup and entree served each evening in Aquavit that changes daily. One evening we had BBQ brisket sliders and pork spareribs...delicious! Judy and Michael were always on hand in the evening to prepare a memorable meal.
Norwegian specialty starters served in Aquavit Terrace
The service in Aquavit and The Restaurant was very good. Guests can enjoy complimentary wines and soft drinks at lunch or dinner. A house red and white wine are offered throughout the cruise, but other 'premium' wines are available at an additional cost. A Silver Spirits drink package can be purchased that features unlimited wine, cocktails and soft drinks throughout the cruise.
Bar Service
Bar service is available throughout the day and evening in the Viking Lounge and Aquavit Terrace. Drink prices are competitive with other cruise lines. A 3.5 oz. glass of the Viking-label sparkling wine is 3.50€ (about $4.00 US) and is a good value. In fact, Viking's house sparkling wine has always been one of Rickee's favorites. The fully-stocked bar was able to make any cocktail you desire. Unfortunately, my personal favorite, Crown Royal, was not available on the bar menu.
Excursions
River cruising is all about the destination and the daily excursions to explore the cities, towns and attractions along the river. Every Viking River cruise includes at least one complimentary excursion in each town you visit. Early each evening, there is a daily briefing held in the Viking Lounge to inform guests of the following day's schedule. Dewi, our Program Director, would explain the excursion options and meeting times. Typically, we were off the boat by 8:30am each morning, but there were a couple of days when we got to sleep longer due to a later excursion departure time.
Dewi conducts a daily briefing each evening
Viking River Cruises has a very efficient system for dividing guests into smaller tour groups. Before departing the boat, guests are asked to retrieve their excursion group cards and "port pass" from the Reception Desk. The excursion group card has a number identifying which tour group you are a part of that day. The port pass lets Reception keep track of who is on or off the boat. After exiting the boat, all you have to do is look for the Viking motorcoach with your group number in the window. What could be easier?
Tour group number matches motorcoach
On walking tours that depart directly from where the boat is docked, you simply look for the local guide holding a lollipop sign with your group number and join that group. Upon your return to the boat, you turn in your group card and port pass to let them know you are back on board.
Lollipop signs keep you with the correct local guide
It is not uncommon for several tour groups from different river cruise boats, or even land tours, to be at the same location. Fortunately, Viking River Cruises pioneered the use of the QuietVox communication devices, which are provided to each guest. With the QuietVox, you will only hear your local guide's commentary. You can also wander away a bit to take a photo or examine something a bit closer and still be able to hear what the guide is saying.
Rickee shows her QuietVox
We were very impressed with the quality of the local guides Viking River Cruises utilized during this cruise. Every guide was very knowledgeable, fluent in English and kept the groups organized and separated from other tour groups. We have previously experienced excursions in several of the cities we visited on this cruise and we felt that Viking Alruna provided as good or better an experience on every excursion as compared to any we had taken before.
Guests have complimentary use of umbrellas, which are conveniently stashed in a bin as you exit the boat. Complimentary bottled water is also available for the taking as you depart for your tour.
Complimentary bottled water
While some walking tours begin and end at the boat dock, many will require a motorcoach transfer. Viking River Cruises has a fleet of modern, new and spotlessly clean motorcoaches to shuttle guests to and from their tours. In certain towns where Viking Alruna was scheduled to stay for a longer period, shuttle buses were provided so guests could remain in town longer and return to the ship later.
Viking motor coach
OPTIONAL EXCURSIONS - On this sailing, we booked several of Viking River Cruises' optional excursions which incurred an additional cost. These excursions can be pre-booked and paid for through the MyVikingJourney.com website. Our optional excursions included:
Medieval City of Colmar ($49) - This optional tour departed from Breisach, Germany. After a 45-minute drive to Colmar, our local guide conducted a walking tour of the Old City. The guide had a great sense of humor and knew his Colmar history. We had enough free time at the end of the tour to do some souvenir shopping and exploring on our own. Colmar is a charming place well worth visiting, especially if it is not a Sunday and more shops are open. We would rate the value of this tour as a 5 out of 5.
Alsatian Wine Tasting ($79) - This tour departed from Kehl, Germany, and occurred in the afternoon (after lunch), after our included morning tour of Strasbourg. The tour started with a motorcoach drive through the Alsatian wine country to the small town of Obernai. A brief guided walking tour of Obernai concluded with some free time to do souvenir shopping. Afterwards, the motorcoach took us to the Zeyssolff winery where we were given a brief tour of the winery and had the opportunity to taste six different Alsatian wines. We even got to keep the small shot glass used for the tasting. As wine tastings go, this one was fairly typical. At the conclusion of the tour, guests were given the opportunity to purchase wine while some guests went across the street to visit a gingerbread shop. We would rate the value of this tour as a 4 out of 5.
German dinner in Rüdesheim ($99) - On this optional excursion, we departed Viking Alruna early in the evening for a short mini-train ride into the charming little town of Rüdesheim, one of the most visited cities on the Rhine River. We arrived at a local German restaurant, Rüdesheimer Schloss, and were seated at a large table set for 10 people. The restaurant had a lively, albeit a bit touristy, atmosphere. There was a band playing German music, and the place got rather raucous and noisy. The multi-course German meal was a set menu, so we did not have a choice of courses, but the food was good. Beer and wine flowed freely, but soft drinks were also available for the asking. Guests were encouraged to participate in some fun group activities, including a conga line marching through the restaurant to German music. I think everyone had a good time and we would rate the value of this excursion as a 5 out of 5.
Tour of Augustusberg Palace in Brühl ($59) - This afternoon tour begins with a 40-minute motorcoach drive from Cologne, Germany, to the town of Brühl where Falkenlust was our first stop, the favorite hunting lodge of elector and Archbishop of Cologne, Clemens Augustus. Afterwards, we toured Augustusberg Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Both tours were excellent and we found the palace to be well worth a visit. The value of this optional excursion is rated a 5 out of 5.
Entertainment
You won't find flashy production shows on a river cruise. The entertainment, for the most part, is provided by entertainers from the area you are visiting and provides an insight into the local culture and traditions. On our Rhine River cruise, we experienced a variety of local groups including four performers from the Alsace region who took us on a musical journey from the Rhine to the Seine with German and French songs. In Mannheim, a traditional German glassblower came on board to create an exquisite work of art during a demonstration of his craft. During our Taste of Germany dinner, we were entertained by two local musicians who played rousing German melodies while we dined. In Cologne, two extremely talented local musicians treated us to a classical concert. When we were not being entertained by local groups, the onboard pianist, Stefan, played for our listening (and dancing) pleasure. Or, you could always watch an on-demand movie on your stateroom television.
The cultural immersion included lectures on pertinent topics such as Dutch Water Management and an introduction to the Dutch Masters and their art by Program Director, Dewi Klop, who also introduced us to Dutch cheeses and gin with samples of each for us to taste. A guest lecturer, Birte Meinschien, talked to us about France and Germany and their place in Europe today. Executive Chef Mark Anthony Saldua demonstrated how to prepare various local specialties such as Flammkuchen, a German version of pizza, and the famous Rudesheim Coffee, with samples for all, of course.
The next day's activities were listed in the Viking Daily, which is delivered to your stateroom each evening. In addition to meal times and starting times for each event, the Viking Daily is packed with interesting and helpful information about the place we would next visit including the area's history, geography, things to see and do, special products the area is known for, and local customs and traditions. The Viking Daily gave you a peek into what you could look forward to the next day. The expected temperature and weather conditions were also included along with the ship's phone numbers, the Program Director's phone number and the ship's docking location should you somehow get lost.
Staff and Crew
Viking River Cruises has a knack for hiring good people. This is not an easy task when you launch as many new boats per year as they do. How they get good people and get them all effectively trained remains a mystery. Nevertheless, every single member of the crew and Senior Staff we encountered was friendly and knowledgeable. From Ozzy, our room steward, to Dana at the bar who always called us by name, to Evelyn and Dewi (Hotel Manager and Program Director), everyone was wonderful.
Dewi, Program Director and Evelyn, Hotel Manager, at Explorer's Society Cocktail Reception
Disembarkation
Viking has a very efficient mechanism in place for a smooth, painless disembarkation. Guests are organized into groups based on their flight departure times. Those with early flights disembark first, those who are staying for a post-cruise hotel disembark last. We did not observe any crowding or hassle at all. In our case, we required a taxi to transfer to another river cruise a couple of miles away. The Concierge, Zoltan, made a phone call to the other boat to see where they were docked and arranged for a taxi to pick us up. Great service!
What’s Included?
Included in your cruise fare:
Cruise accommodations (stateroom or suite)
All meals on board vessel (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
Bottled water and fresh fruit in stateroom (replenished daily)
Excursions in each town visited (motorcoach or walking tour)
Use of QuietVox communication devices
Wine with lunch and dinner (choice of house red or house white)
Soft drinks or beer with lunch and dinner
Use of umbrellas
Bottled (plastic) water available on excursions
Entertainment in lounge each evening
Airport transfers (if air is booked through Viking River Cruises)
Not included:
Wine, beer, cocktails or soft drinks served in lounge
Premium wines
Optional excursions
Meals off the boat
Gratuities
Airfare (unless booked as part of your Viking River Cruises package)
Airport transfers (unless you book your air through Viking River Cruises)
Incidentals
The Experience
On a Viking River Cruise, you can expect a casual, relaxed atmosphere. There's no need to pack a suit, or even a sport coat, unless you just want to. Slacks and a shirt with a collar are recommended after 6pm, but shorts and t-shirts are acceptable during the daytime. The clientele leans toward a more mature crowd, but that is changing. Every year we are seeing more and more 30 to 40-year-olds in the mix. You won't see many families with small children. In reality, there is nothing for kids to do on a river cruise. We have also noticed that most people who love river cruising have little or no interest in big, oceangoing cruise ships with a thousand or more people.
Summary
You would think that with the rapid expansion of Viking River Cruises over the past few years, the quality of the product would suffer. This company defies logic because somehow, the bigger it gets, the better it gets. How is that possible? We still consider the Viking Longships to be the best hardware sailing in Europe. Even though the boats can carry up to 190 guests, they feel incredibly spacious and comfortable. The quality of workmanship both inside and outside the vessel is impressive.
Viking Hlin and Viking Alruna docked together in Breisach
Equally impressive is the polished service Viking guests enjoy delivered by a well-trained, friendly staff. Viking River Cruises continues to exceed our expectations each time we sail with them. We will continue to recommend Viking River Cruises to our friends and followers who are looking for a high-value European river cruise.
Pros and Cons
Pros
Best boats sailing in Europe. Spacious, modern, comfortable
Veranda Suite is awesome, roomy and super comfortable
Excellent local tours and guides
Concierge available to make local reservations or arrangements
Optional tours are a good value
Food and dining continue to improve
Bar service and reasonable drink pricing
Aquavit Terrace alternate dining
Most comfortable lounge of any river boat (on which we have sailed)
Motorcoaches - new, clean and very comfortable
Excellent, polished service throughout the boat
Cons
Internet/WiFi needs improvement (true of all river cruises)
Mattress was not as comfortable as we remember
Bathroom could benefit from addition of magnifying makeup mirror
Video
The Rhine and Moselle on Tauck MS Grace
Tauck's newest riverboat continues the tradition of excellent service
Itinerary: Amsterdam, Amsterdam, Nijmegen, Remagen, Cochem, Bernkastel/Luxembourg, Trier, Boppard/Rüdesheim, Heidelberg, Baden-Baden, Strasbourg, Basel/Lucerne
The Assignment
We spend 12 nights aboard Tauck's new ms Grace sailing The Rhine and Moselle rivers from Amsterdam to Basel. Grace is one of Tauck's newest riverboats and we will be aboard the 6th sailing of this brand new vessel. Tauck Grace is basically the exact same class of vessel as Tauck Inspire, on which we sailed in 2014.
Tauck/Scylla Relationship
At its core, Tauck is a tour company. They have been in the tour business for more than 90 years. When the decision was made to enter the rapidly expanding river cruise market, Tauck partnered with Scylla, a Swiss river cruise operator with 40 years of experience in the industry. This unique partnership gives Tauck guests a "best of both worlds" experience. Tauck sets a brand standard on its ships that Scylla is required to meet. Therefore, Scylla hotel/restaurant staff deliver their portion of the onboard experience to meet or exceed Tauck's requirements. In addition, Scylla designs the Tauck-branded riverboats to meet Tauck's specifications. With Scylla responsible for the hotel side of the experience, Tauck can focus on the destination presentation, excursions and enrichment experience. This arrangement may seem a bit confusing at first, but the system works, and works very well. Both Tauck and Scylla appear to have the same focus on, and penchant for, great customer service.
The Scylla flag flies proudly beside the Tauck flag on MS Grace
Embarkation
We arrived very early on the morning of embarkation, around 10am. Embarkation day for us is also disembarkation day for the guests from the previous sailing, so early in the morning things are a bit hectic. As soon as we stepped aboard, we met Maggie, Grace's Cruise Director. In spite of being very busy helping guests who were disembarking, she took the time to greet us and invite us to relax in the Panorama Lounge until our stateroom was ready for occupancy. Normally, we would have used the time to explore Amsterdam on foot, but the weather today is extremely cold, windy and rainy. As soon as we were seated in the lounge, we were approached by a waiter who asked us if we would like something to drink, a preview of the great service we knew we were going to enjoy over the next 12 days.
About 11am, the crew began setting up a "Welcome" lunch buffet in the Panorama Lounge with soup, sandwiches and light snacks. By noon, the Hotel Manager informed us that our stateroom was ready. We visited the Reception Desk where we left our passports, had our photos taken (for security reasons) and were issued our stateroom keys. The whole process only took a few minutes.
MS Grace
The interesting thing about riverboats in Europe is that, regardless of the cruise line, the boats are all roughly the same size. This is due to the limitations imposed by the rivers themselves. A riverboat can only be so long, so wide and so tall, otherwise it would not be able to transit the various locks along the river or travel under the bridges. Where Tauck distinguishes itself from other companies is the space-to-guest ratio. Tauck's ms Grace only has 67 cabins which means it is designed to carry a maximum of 134 guests. There are riverboats exactly this same size that carry up to 190 guests.
Tauck ms Grace
PANORAMA LOUNGE - The heart of every riverboat in Europe is the lounge. The Panorama Lounge on Grace is located forward on Deck 3, "Diamond Deck." The lounge is elegantly decorated in blue and silver velvet fabrics giving it a very rich look and feel.
Elegant Blue and gray decor
The fully-stocked bar is located forward in the center of the room with seating surrounding the bar. There are sliding doors on each side of the lounge leading to the outer deck and to stairs that go up to the Sun Deck. Each evening around 5:00pm, you will see guests begin to make their way to Panorama for a "social hour" and to hear the daily briefing about the next day's activities. The lounge is also the venue for evening entertainment.
RECEPTION/GIFT SHOP - The Reception Desk is located on Deck 3 starboard just aft of the lounge. There is always at least one crew member at Reception 24 hours a day. Guests interact with Reception each time they leave or return to the boat. Before exiting the boat, guests are asked to "swipe out" by handing their room key to someone at Reception who swipes the key through the onboard system to record that the guest is off the boat. Upon returning to the boat, you hand your key to someone at Reception to "swipe in" to let them know you are back on board. Of course, Reception is available to answer any questions or deal with any issues with your cabin. On our sailing, Edua and Sintija (Cynthia) were always at the desk, smiling and willing to help. If you wanted to use the complimentary WiFi service on board, it was necessary to register your devices with Reception. This was a simple process wherein your computer, tablet and/or phone were scanned into the onboard system to allow you to access the Internet.
Gift shop
COMPASS ROSE - The Compass Rose Dining Room is located on Deck 2 forward. The dining room is laid out exactly like Tauck's other ships on which we have sailed. Tables are elegantly set with white tablecloths for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most tables are set for four, six or eight guests. However, there are two tables-for-two (one portside and one starboard). Seating is along the sides of the boat while the middle of the dining room is occupied by a long buffet serving station.
Compass Rose
ARTHUR'S RESTAURANT - Arthur's Restaurant is Grace's alternate dining venue, and more. Located aft on Deck 3, Arthur's is an all-day dining venue, 24-hour coffee station, game center and bar.
FITNESS CENTER/SALON - The Fitness Center and Beauty Salon are located on Deck 1. There is even a massage room with a nice selection of massage treatments offered at reasonable prices. There is an elevator/lift that transports guests from Deck 1 to Deck 3.
The Fitness Center - Deck 1
SUN DECK - The Sun Deck (top deck) on Grace is open to the elements, as is the norm on European riverboats. However, there are a lot of covered areas to provide protection from the sun and rain. A section behind the Bridge is protected by glass on three sides for more protection from the wind. Aft, you will find a large hot tub and a putting green.
Forward of the Bridge on the Sun Deck there is an open area with very comfortable wicker furniture, the perfect location for enjoying your favorite beverage while taking in the sights of the river.
SECURITY - It is worth noting that Tauck has enhanced its security when it comes to how guests, and others, are able to access the interior of the boat. The guest must place their room key on a scanner which will open the door to Reception, Arthur's or the Panorama Lounge. It is no longer possible to simply walk onto the boat unless the room key is swiped across the scanner. While this is a little inconvenient, it is a measure we would like to see other river cruise companies employ. On most river boats, there is nothing to keep anyone from just walking into the Reception area. So, we commend Tauck for this new security measure. We also noticed on this trip that, when tied up right next to another riverboat between us and the shore, which is common practice on the increasingly crowded European rivers, we no longer exited through the lobby inside the other boat but instead had to go outside, climb the stairs up onto our Sun Deck and step across to the other boat's Sun Deck and down their outside stairs to access the shore.
Accommodations - Loft Cabin
Our Loft Cabin is a totally new stateroom design, and one we were anxious to experience once again. To fully appreciate the Loft Cabin, you have to be familiar with a typical Deck 1 (the lowest deck) cabin on a river ship. The floor of these cabins actually rests below the water line and a typical cabin will only have the top few feet above the water line. Therefore, a traditional Deck 1 cabin will only have a small window about 14 inches tall just above the water line. By comparison, the Loft Cabin is actually a split-level design with five steps up to a "loft" landing which has a very high ceiling that has been "carved" out of Deck 2. The Loft Cabin is one of the most innovative concepts we have ever seen on any ship. The windows, which are 1.5 decks tall, are fantastic. It was so nice to sit at the table and chairs in front of the windows and watch the river go by! And, a portion of the window could be raised at the touch of a switch to allow fresh air into the cabin or to take pictures without shooting through glass. Very nice!
The Loft Cabin is 225 sq. ft., which is quite large for a riverboat. The loft platform initially makes the room seem smaller than it is, but you soon realize that this is a very roomy and usable space. There is ample storage in the form of closets and drawers. The contemporary carpeting and furnishings offer both style and class. The mattress on the bed is as comfortable as you will find on any ship --- river or ocean. The pillows were a bit on the soft side, but after an extra one was delivered from housekeeping, I found the 'sweet spot'. Whomever designed the cabin has obviously been the victim of limited AC outlets on other ships. I counted more than 10 electrical outlets! And, there are US-style 110 outlets in addition to the European-style 220 outlets. Bravo! Stateroom lighting can be controlled from switches by the door, or from either side of the bed. "Cove" lighting beneath the stairs and around the headboard offers a soft glow that really classes up the room. There are also adjustable LED reading lights attached to the wall on each side of the bed. Even the tall curtains and sheers covering the massive window are controlled electronically from switches in the loft, or on one side of the bed. And, just when you think you have found every possible electronic control, you find yet another switch by the bed to raise and lower the flat-screen TV to make it more viewable from the bed! That is just plain cool. There is a mini-fridge that is stocked daily with your choice of beverage and an electronic safe for your valuables. An espresso machine was placed in each cabin along with a variety of coffee pods to use in it. Each cabin also is equipped with an alarm clock, a feature we really appreciated.
Switches next to bed can control lights and curtains
The bathroom is perhaps the nicest one you will find this side of a top-level suite on a 5-star cruise ship. The ceramic tile has the look of wooden planks and really gives the bathroom a warm and inviting appearance. The shower stall is large and has a rain shower head as well as a handheld shower head/wand combination. The vessel sink, a popular trend on new ships these days, places form over function. Prepare for water to splash all over the place when you wash your face or brush your teeth. A large two-door medicine cabinet opens to reveal roomy shelves that keep liquids and creams hidden from view and there's even a small magnifying makeup mirror mounted inside. The medicine cabinet doors are mirrored on both sides so you can use the items you need inside the cabinet without having to repeatedly close and re-open the doors. And, there is even additional lighting within the medicine cabinet itself making it easier to see to apply makeup! There is also a large cabinet under the sink that can be used for storage.
Even though the Loft Cabin is the most innovative and downright "cool" stateroom we have ever occupied, it is not without its shortcomings. There is a little problem with the noise coming from neighboring cabins' vacuum toilets when they are flushed. This is an issue we noted in our 2014 review of Tauck Inspire and, even though more insulation has been added for noise abatement, the flushing noise is still noticeable. We were often awakened by the loud sound of running water that seemed to flowing down the inside of our cabin walls. Even with the noise, the positives of this cabin far outweigh the negative. I would still rate this cabin 4 out of 5 and would not hesitate to sail in a Loft Cabin again in the future.
Food and Dining
Meal service starts each morning from 6:30am till 9am (times may vary) in Compass Rose with an elaborate buffet breakfast. As you would expect, there are scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, pastries, fruit, cereals, breads, etc. An á la carte breakfast menu is available for cooked-to-order eggs, a variety of pancakes, French toast or waffles. Early risers will find a selection of Continental Breakfast choices at Arthur's from 6am until 10am.
The lunch buffet in Compass Rose begins at 12:30pm or later, depending on the daily activities, with buffet choices that change each day. There is always a variety of freshly-made salads, sandwiches, breads, hot entrees, and even a carving station. There is also an extensive charcuterie platter each day on the buffet with a beautiful selection of salami, Parma ham, proscuitto, liverwurst, etc. Soups are delivered to your table by your waiter/waitress.
Dinner in Compass Rose is full-service with menus that change each evening. We found the service to be very polished and prompt. The menus were varied and we found the food quality and presentation coming from Dutch-born Executive Chef, Fenna, to be even better than what we remembered from past Tauck sailings. All of the beef dishes I had were excellent and perfectly prepared. The food served in Compass Rose was as good or better than we have found on any river cruise to date. The suckling pig served at lunch one day was delicious, as was the roasted chicken. The only slip up was one morning when Rickee's Eggs Benedict has a strong smell and taste of vinegar. Apparently, too much was added to the poaching liquid. Every other egg dish we ordered during the cruise was perfectly cooked.
Arthur's is open from 11am until 11pm each evening and offers a complete menu with a variety of lunch and dinner selections. Throughout the day, all dishes are prepared á la minute in the restaurant's "open" kitchen where you can see the chef making your meal. Burgers and steaks are prepared on a flattop grill. A hamburger is on the menu, the only burger I have ever seen on a riverboat.
The atmosphere in Arthur's does not change from lunchtime to dinnertime and is much more casual than the previous steakhouse concept. Tables are set up as needed, when guests arrive. There is a small full-service bar in Arthur's and a large table in the back of the dining room sports several board games for guests to enjoy. Bridge players also congregate here for card games, so you might be dining right next to a heated bridge game. Therefore, an intimate, romantic dining venue, Arthur's is not.
The bar in Arthur's
Arthur's also serves as Grace's 24-hour coffee bar where guests can enjoy a cup of coffee or tea and a choice of freshly baked cookies. If you want something light to snack on, you can order a "Bite to Eat" plate available daily from 10am until midnight which can be delivered to your stateroom, the Sun Deck, the Panorama Lounge or Arthur's. The menu is found in your stateroom and also at Arthur's and consists of items such as a cheese plate, sandwiches, cookies, etc.
Bar Service
Grace guests can enjoy their favorite beverage in Panorama Lounge (Deck 3 forward), Arthur's (Deck 3 aft) or on the Sun Deck. Waiters circulate through the Panorama Lounge taking and delivering drink orders. Rickee and I have a favorite table near the bar that we occupy each evening. By the second night, Farhan Hamdi (Bar Manager), knows our favorite drinks and a waiter delivers them to our table without our even having to order. We sailed with Mr. Hamdi on Tauck Inspire in 2014, and he remembered us. Farhan makes an excellent Mojito, which Rickee loves. There is a "social hour" in Panorama Lounge each evening to entice guests to attend the daily briefing before going to dinner. Waiters circulate through the lounge offering trays of delicious appetizers. On more than one evening, we ate so many of the amazing hors d'oeuvres that we had to skip dinner altogether!
Excursions
Visiting the towns, cities and villages along the rivers is what river cruising is all about. When it comes to immersing guests in the destination, nobody does it better than Tauck. From the very first off-the-boat excursion, it becomes obvious that Tauck has unequaled experience in this area. Overseeing all local excursions is Tauck's team of Tour Directors. Tauck Directors are knowledgeable professionals, well-versed in local culture, customs and traditions. They seem to always be looking for creative ways to share their love of the destination, with pleasant surprises or spur-of-the-moment opportunities along the way to make the each day the best day of your river cruise. In addition to Tauck Directors, local guides are used in most places, all speaking very good English, and all very knowledgeable about their local points of interest.
Each day, guests are invited to join one or more of the offered excursions. A complete description of the day's excursion(s) is provided during the previous day's briefing in the Panorama Lounge. Information is also available in the daily newsletter. To divide guests into smaller groups, Tauck uses colored poker chips. Each morning, guests are asked to select a colored poker chip (one per person) to determine which tour group/guide they will be assigned to for that day. The chips are then dropped into a waiting silver bucket to be used again the next day.
When all the chips of a certain color are gone, the group is full. Upon exiting the vessel, guests look for the local guide holding a sign with the color of the chip(s) they selected for the day. The system seems to work very well and keeps everything organized. On most days, there is one group geared toward a slower pace, which is great for guests with mobility issues.
Bottled water is always available in Reception before an excursion departure and, when guests return from the excursion, they are welcomed back on board with a moist warm or cold towel (depending on outside temperature) and some sort of local delicacy refreshment such as candy or cookies or special beverage.
Each guest is provided a personal communication "Vox" device, complete with an earpiece, that is programmed to the transmitter used by their local guide. These devices are becoming commonplace now and they really make local excursions much more enjoyable. The Vox units used by Tauck can be worn around your neck using the provided lanyard, or they will easily slip into a shirt or jacket pocket, great for those of us that have a camera hanging around our neck. The provided earpiece is very comfortable and can be fitted to either ear. At the end of the day, the Vox units are placed into a charging station in your stateroom.
While some excursions take place right from where the boat docks, others require a short drive to a tour departure point. Tauck has a fleet of new, comfortable and spotlessly clean motorcoaches to transport guests. The buses are wrapped in recognizable Tauck-branded graphics to make them immediately recognizable when parked among dozens of other tour coaches. These coaches also serve as shuttle buses that transport guests back to/from the ship at scheduled times when the opportunity exists to remain in a city for lunch, extra shopping or additional exploration. Tauck is all about choices. You usually have more than one choice of excursion. Don't feel like going on a walking tour today? No problem. A Tauck motorcoach will pick you up at the boat at a certain time and take you to meet the rest of the group at the winery or restaurant or wherever the walking tour was scheduled to end.
Entertainment
Riverboat entertainment, for the most part, is geared toward a cultural experience. Local entertainers come on board to sing, dance and play instruments. On this trip, we were treated to performances by La Prada, a string trio that played classical and not-so-classical music; the Sandy Quartett, who have been entertaining fans for over 25 years on European stages; and an Alsace Folklore show featuring local costumes and dances. But, the highlight was the Scylla Crew Show!
We were educated by guest lecturers and enlightened on local cultural topics by our Tour Directors. One night a movie on Dutch waterway management was shown in the Panorama Lounge. We even had a "Battle of the Sexes" game one evening after dinner! Musical entertainment was always available in the Panorama Lounge from Stefan, the onboard pianist. If you did not feel like venturing out, you have access to on-demand movies on your stateroom television. There was also a control on your stateroom wall that would allow you to listen to music or hear commentary delivered by a Tour Director when we were sailing through notable scenic areas of the rivers.
Board games were available in Arthur's and Bridge players were often found there in a friendly game. If you felt like getting some exercise, yoga classes were offered on several mornings or, when we were docked, you could ask a member of the crew to get a bicycle out for you to ride along the river paths. Golf putters were available at Reception if you wanted to get a little practice in on the Sun Deck putting green.
Staff and Crew
During a Tauck river cruise, guests will engage with both Tauck and Scylla employees. However, this is really seamless to the experience and every member of the Tauck and Scylla staff we encountered was friendly and dedicated to providing a great experience. From the Tauck side, our Cruise Director, Maggie Chada, could always be found at her desk across from Reception. It was pretty obvious that Maggie runs the show and she does an amazing job of keeping everything running smoothly. There were three Tauck Tour Directors on our sailing, Michael, Kati and Iris, and each of them went out of their way to ensure that each guest had a memorable experience.
Maggie Chada, Cruise Director
The Hotel Manager, Marija, and her team of Edua and Sintija were always available at the Reception Desk to handle any issues or answer questions.
Edua, Marija and Sintija
The housekeeping staff is also worthy of mention. Crew members are continually cleaning the public areas and keeping the brass surfaces polished and free from fingerprints. Our room steward, Yusup, did an admirable job of keeping our Loft cabin clean and well stocked. Room stewards and stewardesses also perform a variety of other tasks, including waiting tables in the restaurant and bar.
Jenny and Yusup
The Tauck River Cruise Experience
The dress code is casual with opportunities to "dress up" provided with the Captain's Welcome and Captain's Farewell receptions and dinner. During the day, we wore blue jeans and tees with a light jacket since the weather was on the cool side. After 5pm, it is suggested that guests not wear shorts or jeans in the public areas or dining room but we saw several male guests wearing shorts and jeans during cocktail hour. Umbrellas are provided in each cabin as well as at Reception; however, packing a small portable umbrella is advisable.
River cruising in general tends to attract a mature crowd, and the guests on Tauck fit this description. You will rarely find families with small children on a river cruise and, there were none on this sailing. Tauck actually offers four river cruise itineraries designed specifically for families, one each on the Danube, Rhine, Rhone and Seine. Naturally, families will gravitate toward those sailings. Part of the Tauck Bridges collection of family tours and cruises, the four Bridges river cruises are very popular with families. In 2017 Tauck will be doubling family river cruise departures from 10 to 20. On our sailing, the average age was between 45-65 with an occasional 30-something or 80-something in the mix. Tauck guests tend to be very experienced travelers.
Tauck delivers an all-inclusive experience that includes gratuities and beverages in the cruise fare. Depending on the package you purchase, it may also include a pre-/post-cruise hotel stay and airfare. This can make Tauck a very good value compared to other river cruise products. Gratuities on other river cruises can be as much as $20 per day/per person. On this sailing, that would be $480 for two people! An unlimited drink package on another popular river cruise line costs another $20 per day, so add another $480. Tauck also includes special events and meals off the boat that would easily cost you several hundred dollars on other cruise lines.
WHAT'S INCLUDED
Cruise accommodations
All meals on board
Special events and meals off the boat
All excursions
All gratuities
Airport transfers
Soft drinks, bottled water, beer, wine and liquor
Premium spirits
Complimentary use of bicycles when docked
Complimentary WiFi
WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED
Incidentals (gifts, postcards, postage, etc.)
Salon services (hair, nails, massage)
Summary
Tauck River Cruises is far from the largest river cruise line, but what they lack in fleet size, they more than make up for in quality. This a truly all-inclusive vacation. The only thing we ended up paying for after twelve days was a few stamps for postcards, which were mailed for us by Reception. All beverages consumed on board are included as are gratuities. Staterooms are elegantly decorated, with plenty of storage, and the most comfortable beds you will find on any ship at sea or on a river. The partnership between Scylla and Tauck works to the benefit of the guests who sail with them. Our advice: book now before the word gets out about these exciting new ships!
Review by Chris Dikmen and Rickee Richardson
Chris Dikmen is President of CruiseReport.com. Rickee Richardson is Senior Editor of CruiseReport.com. Together, they have reviewed more than 120 cruises over the past 13 years.