A Mississippi River Cruise with American Cruise Lines
By John and Sandra Nowlan
We knew there’d be some great music as we sailed down the Mississippi from Memphis on one of American Cruise Lines new, modern riverboats. We didn’t expect the Southern food and hospitality to be so good nor, as Canadians, to appreciate American history and culture so much.
The music began as soon as we entered the Memphis airport shuttle bus. The unmistakable voice of Elvis Presley singing “Love Me Tender” drifted down the aisle from hidden speakers. The bus Shaked, Rattled and Rolled as it took us to the Guest House at Graceland, a four star, 450 room hotel adjacent to Elvis’ Graceland mansion. American Cruise Lines offers guests an optional two night stay at the comfortable Guest House with free access to the mansion and the separate, vast collection of Presley airplanes, cars, motorcycles, costumes and gold records. We could see why the Graceland complex is the most visited private home in the United States.
Walls filled with Elvis performance outfits
En route to the riverboat, the cruise line gave us a bus tour of Memphis with stops at Beale Street (home of the Blues), Sun Records (where Elvis made his first recordings) and the Lorraine Motel (now part of The National Civil Rights Museum) where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in 1968. We felt a strong sense of sadness as we gazed at the balcony of Room 306.
Our first glance of our Mississippi riverboat was from atop a levee in Memphis. We headed down the steep ramp to board the American Melody through its unusual flipped-up bow. Riverboats on the Mississippi have a unique challenge. With flood-control levees, some as high as 50 feet, all along the Mississippi, American Cruise Lines always carry golf carts to help the elderly and infirm safely navigate the challenging slopes.
Am Melody Ready To Board Passengers
In 2018 American Cruise Lines, the largest river and small ship cruise line in the United States, introduced the first modern riverboats in North America. American Melody was built in Maryland in 2021 with a maximum capacity of just 175 guests and an average room size of 350 square feet. Our “Veranda Suite” was 405 square feet and felt more like a spacious hotel room but with better, ever-changing views. We particularly appreciated the comfortable, king size bed and luxurious sheets and pillows. There were plenty of power and electronic outlets, high quality internet, much more drawer space than we’d ever need, very efficient temperature control, a 50 inch TV, and a large bathroom with soft, fluffy towels and two separate nozzles in the shower. We weren’t surprized when we were told that the ACL fleet of 20 riverboats (operating in 35 states) has the largest average guest rooms of any cruise line.
With the failure of American Queen Voyages, the only current competition for American Cruise Lines on the second longest river in the U.S. (the Missouri is about 100 miles longer) is the Viking Mississippi. This cruise ship is much larger than the ACL boats, accommodating up to 386 guests. The Hotel Manager on American Melody told us that the smaller boats of his company are better suited for the Mississippi because occasional low water levels can prevent the bigger, deeper draft of large boats from operating. American Cruise Lines riverboats have never missed a scheduled sailing due to water depth.
Finally heading downriver with a full passenger load (mostly Americans but with a smattering of Canadians, Brits and Australians) we were impressed with the layout of American Melody. Its four story atrium and public rooms never seemed crowded. On Deck 3 forward the large bright River Lounge was used for port briefings, trivia, excellent enrichment lectures and entertainment. The smaller indoor/outdoor Sky Lounge at the back of Deck 4 was a snackers dream, offering freshly baked cookies, 24 hour snacks, a wide selection of drinks, excellent coffee and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches. Plenty of loungers and a wrap around walking track were available on the full length top deck so guests could enjoy the passing scenery, including heavily laden barges pushed by strangely-named tow boats, semi tropical vegetation and small communities. When we reached Baton Rouge, heavy industry tended to dominate the shoreline.
Relaxing on back deck
Meals were a special treat on American Melody. As expected, emphasis was on Southern U.S. dishes, especially Creole, Cajun, even a noontime pig roast. We loved our Cornmeal Crusted Catfish with Collard Greens, Gulf Coast Blue Crabcakes, Sea Bass with Sauteed Crawfish and Jambalaya. The fish was particularly tasty. The Hotel Manager told us all seafood is fresh, never frozen. Lunch and dinner included complimentary wine, beer and spirits as well as a good selection of non-alcohol beer and wine. In the evening, white tablecloths graced the tables.
Cornmeal crusted catfish with collard greens
The serving staff on American Melody was young and energetic. By U.S. law, all staff must be American because ACL riverboats do not visit a foreign country. Although friendly and well-meaning we found the restaurant staff to be less efficient and well-trained as the primarily Filipino and Indonesian staff on international river, lake and ocean ships. Hotel Manager Glenn Taylor told us that while his staff may not be as polished as the international competition, they’re always pleasant and accommodating. He added that this is often the first full time job for young servers and he’s delighted that so many have used the riverboat experience as a stepping stone to a career in hospitality.
We were impressed with the quality of evening entertainment on American Melody. The talented performers were better than musical acts we’ve enjoyed on many European river cruises. Our favorites included Mississippi Marshall, a master of the Blues who played a mean guitar (we bought his CD), Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers (a three man band with female vocalist) and the Banjo Cats, a husband and wife team who have mastered several instruments.
The Banjo Cats
The tours (most were complimentary) were outstanding. Who knew that tiny Cleveland, Mississippi, is the home of the impressive Grammy Museum, highlighting the amazing musical talent in southern states and around the Mississippi Delta? A stop in Vicksburg allowed us to visit a private Civil War museum with its huge collection of artifacts from that troubled time as well as the unusual Coca-Cola Museum in the building where Coke was first bottled in the U.S.
In Vidalia, Louisiana we visited a cotton plantation where we were able to hand pick some fluffy cotton, explore a historic cotton gin, then observe in a modern cotton gin the process of cleaning and bundling in 500 pound bales for transport. Along the way we were also able to visit several southern antebellum mansions that resembled a scene from Gone With the Wind. Standouts were The Myrtles in St. Francisville, Louisiana, and Oak Alley in Vacherie, Louisiana.
Oak Alley antebellum mansion in Louisiana
Our highlight in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was a visit to the capital building that dominates the skyline. At 450 feet it’s the tallest state capital in the United States. The panoramic view of the city and meandering Mississippi from the observation deck is spectacular. Built in the early 30s during the Depression, it was a project masterminded by controversial Governor and then Senator Huey Long. He was assassinated inside the building in 1935 where there’s now a memorial. We ended the day relaxing on our balcony admiring a magical pastel sunset.
Louisiana is well known for its plentiful bayous, slow moving marshy waterways. On our last day aboard American Melody we signed up for a tour called, “Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure”. Adventure indeed! Aboard a 40 passenger, flat-bottom aluminum boat, our captain took us through the narrow bayous where alligators were plentiful, either lounging on the shoreline or swimming alongside us (our captain even fed a few without losing his hand). In addition, we met many playful racoons and a family of not-so-playful wild hogs.
A small alligator on the Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure
The guest mix aboard American Melody was interesting. The personable and efficient Cruise Director, Colin Hietikko, told us that many of his American guests had traveled the world in their younger years and now wanted to stay closer to home with something safe and accessible. Older couples were certainly the prime demographic on our cruise with an average age of more than 70. But Glenn Taylor, the hotel manager, said that was slowly changing as the modern, all-inclusive riverboats in the American Cruise Lines fleet were beginning to attract more young people. That, along with fascinating itineraries, is a recipe for continued success.
