Day 8 - Disembark m/s Paul Gauguin

One of our least favorite parts of any cruise is disembarkation. Not only is it the end of a vacation, but getting off the ship can often be difficult, and then you have to deal with airports and airlines. Yuck. This morning, m/s Paul Gauguin is docked back in Papeete, Tahiti, where our adventure began just seven short days ago.

m/s Paul Gauguin docked in Papeete, Tahiti

Fortunately, Paul Gauguin Cruises makes getting off the ship in Papeete, Tahiti, as painless as possible. Guests are issued colored luggage tags and assigned a time to be off the ship. Large luggage needs to be outside the stateroom by 11pm the night before disembarkation, and tagged with the appropriate colored tag. We had the pink tags indicating that we had a post-cruise tour combined with a day room at the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort (more about that later). Guests must vacate their staterooms by 9:30am, which is actually pretty generous. And, disembarkation for us was not until 12:10pm. The late disembarkation is due to the fact that most flights don't leave Tahiti until late in the evening or almost midnight. Guests can even enjoy lunch from 11am until 12pm before disembarking. We had our traditional disembarkation-day breakfast with Rickee ordering Eggs Benedict in La Veranda.

Eggs Benedict served in La Veranda

After breakfast, we sat on the back deck outside La Palette and waited for our tag color to be called for disembarkation. Paul Gauguin Cruises does something else that is admirable: guests who sign up for the week-long Internet/WiFi package get to keep using the Internet until 11:59am. Many cruise lines shut down the WiFi accounts at midnight the night before. We were walking down the gangway by noon, ahead of schedule. Getting off the ship was very organized and orderly.

Rickee disembarks M/S Paul Gauguin in Papeete

In a tent near the end of the gangway, all of the large luggage (that was retrieved from the hallways the night before) is organized by luggage tag color, making it simple to find your bags. Next the luggage is loaded into a waiting truck that will take it to the hotel. A representative from the Shore Excursion department is on site to help should any problems occur.

Luggage is organized by tag color

With hand-luggage in tow, we walk down to the cruise terminal exit where a bus is waiting to take us on our local tour of Papeete before dropping us at our day-room hotel.

Fortunately, the bus was air conditioned because is broiling hot today and very humid. Our first stop was the home of James Normal Hall, author of many famous novels including Mutiny on the Bounty.

A guide took us on a tour of the place, which is actually a replica of James Norman Hall’s Tahitian home. The guide pointed out interesting facts about Mr. Hall's life and his children. You know, I guess I have been on so many of these kinds of tours that I sort of tune everything out. I just walk around on my own, look at the pictures on the wall, and wait for the bus to leave. I know I am not going to remember any of the information the guides disseminate. At my age, my "hard drive" is full. In order for me to remember anything new, I would have to throw out something else that I already know.

The next stop on the tour was at a lighthouse, where it became clear that the object of this tour is to just kill time until the hotel is ready for us to check in. The final stop was at some sort of scenic overlook. Bottom line: there is really nothing to see in Papeete! I think a better option, which the cruise line does offer, would be to skip the tour, go directly to the hotel and just hang out at the pool until time to check-in. When we do finally get to the hotel around 2:15pm, check-in is really hectic and not all of the rooms are ready for us.

Check-in is hectic at hotel

The post-cruise day-room hotel is the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort, which may sound luxurious, but trust me, it is not. Paul Gauguin Cruises offers two hotels for post-cruise day rooms, with the other being the Intercontinental. Trust me on this, opt for the Intercontinental. The Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort is in a state of disrepair. One of the first things you see when you drive into the circular drive in front of the hotel is big chunks missing from the thatched roof over the lobby! This property really does not live up to the standards we have become accustomed to for the last seven days aboard m/s Paul Gauguin.

When we finally do get our room keys (by 3pm), we go to our "Premium" room, which honestly was not too bad. It was a two-story, large room with a nice large balcony. However, the A/C in our room never did get the temperature below 80 degrees. We decided to spend our time at the pool, which also is pretty nice. However, they were out of towels at the pool, and the pool attendant asked for a "towel card" which was supposed to be issued with our room key at check in but was not. To his credit, he did eventually bring a towel to Rickee but not without her guarantee that she would not take the frayed and worn blue towel home with her since she had not been issued an "official" towel card!

A nice pool at the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort

We did not eat at the hotel, but I did try ordering a rum punch at the pool bar. Nobody at the bar spoke English, only French. I tried to describe a rum punch, but the bartenter just started making his own concoction, which ended up tasting like a Margarita. There were about five slices of muddled lemon in the bottom of the glass and it was filled with ice, so I only got about three straws full of drink. The price? $14 (US)!

When we checked in, we were told that check-out time was 7pm and that we had to have our luggage in the lobby by that time, even though the transfer to the airport was not until 9:10pm. We later learned that other guests were told they could stay in their rooms until 8pm. I wish we had known that! Nevertheless, we did enjoy a beautiful scene on our balcony as the sun set behind Moorea in the distance.

Sunset from our hotel balcony

Our luggage was transported to the airport in a separate truck and was waiting for us when we arrived. The pre-arranged transfer to the airport (bus) arrived right on time at 9:10pm and by 9:30 we were checking in for our 11:59pm flight to LAX on Air Tahiti Nui. All along the way there was a representative from Paul Gauguin Cruises with us to answer questions or provide assistance. I will spare you the details of our overnight flight to LAX, and connecting flight to DFW. That tale is for another blog and another day. Suffice it to say that the Air Tahiti Nui flight had one of the most uncomfortable airline seats we have ever occupied, with little to no leg room, in the center section of an old airplane.

Watch for our full review of m/s Paul Gauguin coming to CruiseReport.com soon.

Day 7 - Moorea, Society Islands

m/s Paul Gauguin is still anchored off the coast of Moorea, Society Islands, this morning. The view from our stateroom balcony is spectacular!

We spend the morning packing for the trip home tomorrow. This is our last full day aboard m/s Paul Gauguin, a depressing thought for sure. Nevertheless, all good things, and cruises, must come to an end. But, only seven days? It seems like we just got here!

We have booked the Slow-Paced Belvedere E-Bike tour ($85/pp) through the cruise line's shore excursion department. The tour is scheduled for 1pm, so we have time to enjoy lunch in La Veranda before our excursion.

After lunch, we gather our backpacks and head down to the Grand Salon to meet other guests on tour this afternoon. Once again, a short tender ride to shore is necessary, but today it is raining when we board the tender! When we arrive at the tender pier, the rain is still falling lightly. A young lady is waiting for us with an E-BIKE sign.

There is only one other couple on our tour today, plus our E-Bike tour guide, Ari. We walk from the pier about 100 yards to an area with several of the E-Bikes lined up. Each of us is offered a helmet and a bike is sized for us. There is a brief instruction on how the E-Bike functions. Basically, it is like any other 10-speed mountain bike, except that it has an electric-assist motor. This is not to be confused with a Mo-Ped. The electric motor will not power the E-Bike by itself. You still have to pedal the bike. But, you can dial in varying degrees of "assistance" to make peddling easier.

We are shown how to adjust the level of electric motor assistance

It only takes a few minutes to get used to how the E-Bike works, and the electric motor really does make a huge difference in the amount of energy needed to propel the bike forward. Before long, we are all heading off down the main island road using the designated bike lane, following our guide Ari.

Ari, our tour guide

After about a mile, we turned off the main road on to a narrower, paved road. The roads were all in good condition. However, one has to be careful not to run off the road into a deep rain gutter alongside the road in some places. Paying attention to where you are riding is very important. Soon, we are riding along tree-lined, curvy roads enjoying some really beautiful scenery.

In actuality, we are slowly climbing a mountain with moderate grades. There is no way Rickee nor I could have ridden this road on a normal bike. The E-BIke really makes going up hills much easier. I should also point out that once the rain subsided, it is VERY hot and VERY humid, making this ride a bit more challenging. The only breeze comes when you are riding the bike. When we make a stop for Ari to show us something, or just for a break, it is very hot.

Along the way to Belvedere (a popular lookout spot), we stop at a fruit jam stand where we get to taste a variety of locally produced fruit jams. When we finally arrived at Belvedere, I think we were all pretty spent from the ride up the winding roads. We took a moment to take in the view and get some keepsake photos.

I was able to rig up my GoPro on the handlebars of my bike, so hopefully, I will have a short video of some of the action to post later!

After the visit to Belvedere, it was time to turn off the E-Bike's electric motor and basically coast back down the mountain. This was the most fun. Just ride the brake all the way down! On the way down, we did make a couple of other stops, one to view the spot where Captain Cook first landed on Moorea.

Monument to Captain Cook

By 4:00pm, we were pulling into the port area where our tour began. I think we were all pretty tired, but exhilarated and glad we had booked the tour. We surrendered our E-Bikes and walked back to the pier to catch the last tender back to the ship. I think Rickee and I agree that the E-Bike excursion is well worth the $85 per person, and one that you should consider, as long as you are in moderately good physical condition.

Back on board m/s Paul Gauguin, I take a quick shower so that I can get up to the Pool Deck for the Captain's Farewell Party, which is already in full swing by the time I arrive.

Guests gather for Captain's Farewell Party

The drinks are flowing, and Santa Rosa (the ship's band) is playing, and everyone looks to be having a great time. There are a few "surprises" thrown in during the festivities, but those shall remain secret. You will have to sail on m/s Paul Gauguin to experience for yourselves!

Santa Rosa entertains at Captain's Farewell

I left the celebration to visit the best place on the ship to observe the sunset: La Palette on Deck 8 aft. As we sail from Moorea, the sunset is as beautiful as any I have ever seen. Many guests gather on the aft deck for photos, or just to take in the beauty.

After sunset, Rickee and I meet at our favorite spot, the Piano Bar, for one last cocktail. After the second day, the bartender knew our favorite drinks, so all we have to do is sit down and the waiter delivers my Crown Royal and Rickee's sparkling wine. A plate of canapés accompanies our drinks.

After we enjoy our drink, we visit L'Etoile for dinner. I enjoyed a perfectly seasoned, and perfectly cooked rack of lamb while Rickee had a nice bowl of spaghetti bolognese. We both agreed that it was the best meal of the cruise!

Tomorrow morning, we will disembark m/s Paul Gauguin and say goodbye to our new friends we have met on board. It will be a long day culminating with a day room at a local hotel followed by a midnight flight back to LAX. We have really enjoyed our short time aboard m/s Paul Gauguin and look forward to our next adventure.

Don't forget to watch for a full, in-depth review of m/s Paul Gauguin coming soon to CruiseReport.com!

Day 6 - Moorea, Society Islands

This morning, m/s Paul Gauguin is sailing toward Moorea, Society Islands. I was working on our blog at around 5:45am in La Palette when the most amazing sunrise caught my attention. I was able to use my phone to capture the moment.

We arrive in Moorea later this morning and the backdrop of jagged peaks and lush greenery is stunning.

m/s Paul Gauguin anchored off coast of Moorea

We have booked an afternoon "Moorea by Catajets" tour through the cruise line's shore excursion program ($299 for two people). We met in the Grand Salon at 1:15 as instructed on the tickets. We then boarded the ship's tender for the ride to the pier in Moorea. The outrigger is waiting nearby that will take us to our Catajet.

The outrigger boat ride only lasts about 10 minutes before we arrive at a hotel beach from where the Catajets and wave runners are operated. We are the only couple from the ship that signed up for the Catajet tour. Everyone else on the outrigger signed up for the wave runner excursion. You may be wondering what a "Catajet" is. Basically, it is a miniature catamaran. Sort of like a 2-person, side-by-side, wave runner.

Chris and Rickee with the Catajet

There is one other couple on the Catajet tour (guests from a hotel) and our guide, who is in a small lead boat. The Catajet is pretty simple to operate. It has a small outboard prop motor, so I am not sure where the "jet" term comes from. Nevertheless, it was pretty fun to drive through the crystal clear, calm waters surrounding Moorea. There is very little instruction from Tom, our guide: basically, here's how you turn on the engine, and here's the throttle, and "stay 30 feet behind me." We rode the Catajet for about 10 minutes to a sandbar where we had an opportunity to swim with black-tipped reef sharks and stingrays.

Snorkeling with the rays and the sharks

We are actually in about four feet of water, so you can easily stand up. The water is so clear that you can see the fish, sharks and rays swimming below even when you are standing up. But, using a snorkel and mask is the best way to get up-close-and-personal with the sea life.

Rickee swims alongside reef sharks

In case you are afraid of sharks, and who isn't, these sharks seem pretty disinterested in people. They tend to keep their distance, whereas the stingrays will swim right up to you and brush past you. It takes some getting used to, but the rays are much more social than the sharks.

We snorkeled here for about 40 minutes before boarding the Catajets for another short ride over to a motu where we had the opportunity to swim in some warmer, deeper waters. However, the current was so strong that swimming was difficult. Soon, the wave runner tour joined us on the motu for a snack of fresh pineapple and lemon-water.

Before we boarded our Catajet for the last time, two rays decided to stop by the motu for a visit. We were in ankle deep water and noticed that the rays have no problem swimming in the shallow water.

I suspect the rays see people as a food source since the guides always feed them fish. We board the Catajet for the 10-minute ride back to the hotel beach. The tour lasted about two hours total, but really only about 1.5 hours on the tour, and most of that time you are in the water. We probably only drove the Catajet for about 20 minutes total. So, it is really a snorkeling and swimming tour. The Catajet is just a form of transportation. At $299, this is not an inexpensive excursion. But, swimming with the sharks and rays helped to make the cost worth it. And, the Catajet is probably easier to operate than a wave runner.

Before we boarded the tender back to the ship, we had some time to do a little souvenir shopping from the local merchants. We bought a couple of refrigerator magnets for our collection. We were back on board m/s Paul Gauguin in time for an amazing sunset and the Polynesian Night celebration.

Sunset in Moorea

Tonight is Polynesian Night and the ship takes on a Polynesian look. Tonight, each restaurant serves the same Polynesian-inspired menu, albeit with a French influence. Rickee dons her new pareo that she bought at the beach BBQ in Taha'a and we hit the Piano Bar for a cocktail before going to dinner. Before we can finish our drink, Rickee is drawn to the Polynesian "mamas" who are sitting on the floor in front of L' Etoile restaurant making fresh flower leis. Everyone is invited to make their own lei, so Rickee joins in the fun.

Rickee begins making her own lei

Interestingly, other than the Gauguines (female crew members), Rickee is the only woman I saw who wore a pareo to the event. She really represented!

Rickee with her self-made fresh flower lei

After she completed her lei, Rickee and I returned to the Piano Bar to finish our drinks. The Piano Bar has become our favorite watering hole on m/s Paul Gauguin. Since I drink Crown Royal, I prefer to have it served in a rocks glass instead of a plastic water glass, which is what you get at the Pool Bar. They also serve delicious canapés each evening at the Piano Bar.

This evening we decided to dine in L' Etoile. Actually, L' Etoile is your only choice unless you make reservations at La Veranda or Le Grill. So, it was an easy choice! We were seated at a nice table for two and given the Polynesian Night menu. One of the most interesting dishes I had was the pumpkin gnocchi with roast suckling pig ragout. What a weird combination, but it worked.

Pumpkin Gnocchi with Roast Suckling Pig (it's hiding under the spinach)

For a main course, I had the filet and Rickee had the fish. Both were good. During the meal, the Gauguines parade through the dining room entertaining guests with Polynesian song and dance.

We decided to skip dessert tonight and head back to the stateroom early. Tomorrow, we are still in Moorea and we have booked an E-Bike tour.

Day 5 - Bora Bora, Society Islands

This morning, m/s Paul Gauguin is still anchored off the coast of Bora Bora. And why not? It just happens to be one of the most beautiful places on Earth!

Today, we have booked one of the ship's shore excursions: the Lagoonarium Snorkeling Experience ($105pp).

Per instructions on our tickets, and in la Orana (the ship's daily newsletter), we meet with other guests at 8:15am in the Grand Salon on Deck 5. We brought our snorkel gear (mask and fins) provided by the ship as well as towels, sunscreen, bottled water and a ziplock bag for our money and other non-waterproof items. Within minutes of arriving at the lounge, we were led down to Deck 3 to board the ship's tender for the short ride to the village.

When we arrive at the village, our local guide for the day is waiting for us, holding a "LAGOONARIUM" sign. We all dutifully follow him and board a small outrigger boat just steps from where the tender drops us off.

There are a total of 12 guests on our tour today, all from m/s Paul Gauguin. Once everyone is on board, the outrigger heads out toward the Lagoonarium.

The Lagoonarium is located on a motu about 45 minutes from the village in Bora Bora. The Lagoonarium is basically a portion of the lagoon that has been fenced off, with ocean life inside the fence. Think of it as an aquarium large enough for you to swim in.

Guests snokeling in the Lagoonarium

Not long after we enter the water, we are surrounded by Lemon sharks. They are about eight feet long and have a mouth large enough to take a big chunk out of you if they saw you as a food source. Fortunately, they don't!

Rickee is surrounded by Lemon sharks

At one point, the guide convinced Rickee that it would be a good idea for her to grab the fin of the largest shark and ride it. Great idea, let's torment the deadly, man-eating fish! Of course, she had to do it.

Rickee grabs the fin of the largest shark in the Lagoonarium!

After Rickee cheated death, we continued to snorkel with the sharks for about 45 minutes. We also got to see a huge eel up-close and a stone fish. Afterwards, we were treated to a snack of fresh island fruit.

Bananas, coconut and grapefruit

We re-boarded the outrigger for a short ride out to the coral garden. Here, we all had the opportunity to snorkel above large sections of coral and admire the colorful fish that inhabit this area.

We spend about 45 minutes snorkeling at the coral garden before it is time to return to the village. The excursion took about four hours and is an excellent value at $105/pp. We highly recommended it!

We were back on board the ship in time for a delicious lunch at La Veranda. Today is "Greek" day and the buffet features a variety of typical Greek cuisine including moussaka, lamb, gyros, hummus, dolma, and really, really good tzatziki.

This afternoon, we attended an Indian cooking demonstration conducted by Vikram Vij, a notable Canadian chef. Chef Vij owns four restaurants in Canada and has been featured on Top Chef Canada, Chopped Canada, and Dragon's Den. He has also authored several cookbooks. As Chef Vij prepared his Chicken Curry, he entertained us with story after story, some quite "colorful", to say the least. At the conclusion of the demonstration, we all got to try his curry, which was delicious. But, it was Chef Vij's storytelling that was the real star. It was one of the most entertaining lectures/demonstrations we have ever attended on any cruise ship.

Chef Vij prepares his chicken curry

After the demonstration, Rickee and I head up to the Bar du Soleil for the ship's repeat-guest party.

We are welcomed by the Hotel Director and Les Gauguines as we reach the top of the stairs.

Waiters deliver chilled glasses of champagne and circulate with trays of appetizers. We spend time visiting with Alison, the Asst. Cruise Director, and Chef Vij is on hand with more interesting stories. Cruise Director, Claudine, takes to the microphone to greet everyone and express the cruise line's appreciation for the guests' loyalty. It was a very nice "repeater" party. Afterwards, Rickee and I enjoyed a cocktail in the Piano Bar before our 7:00pm dinner reservation at La Veranda.

La Veranda is one of the specialty restaurants on board and reservations are required. The restaurant features a Chef's Dégustation menu, or an a la carte menu. Our waiter informed us that we could mix and match items from either menu. La Veranda becomes a very romantic venue in the evening, with candlelit tables and fine linens. Our meal was delicious, and mine ended with a delicious vanilla creme brulee.

Tomorrow, we will be in Moorea where we have booked a Catajet excursion. Check the blog tomorrow for more excitement from French Polynesia!

Day 4 - Bora Bora, Society Islands

This morning, m/s Paul Gauguin is anchored off the shores of Bora Bora, Society Islands.

Sunrise in Bora Bora

Truly, this has to be one of the most romantic and beautiful places on Earth. It was the scene for the movie South Pacific, and it is no wonder that it has become one of the most popular destinations in the world for honeymooners. Premium resort hotels here can cost $1,000 to $3,000 per night!

Over-the-water bungalows with this view will cost you $1,000 per night or more

We boarded the ship's first tender this morning at 8:30am for the short ride over to Bora Bora. Today, we have arranged our own tour with Vavau Land and Sea Adventures, in part, so that we have a basis of comparison with the ship's tours (which we will do tomorrow). As soon as we stepped off the tender, our driver, Patrick, was waiting for us with a sign with my name on it.

Patrick waiting for us ashore

We boarded Patrick's van for the 10-minute drive to Mai-Tai Hotel where an outrigger boat was waiting for us to board. Another guest from New York was already onboard. We were greeted by our boat Captain and his assistant and we headed off to pick up some other guests at another hotel. We actually made a couple of stops to pick up other tour guests, which took about an hour before we got to our first actual tour stop.

We will do a more in-depth review of Vavau Land and Sea Adventures in a future blog entry, but in summary, we did swim with black-tip sharks and stingrays. Very cool.

Rickee watches a group of black-tip sharks swim just a few feet from her

The tour included a stop on a sand bar where we could easily stand in four feet of water as the huge stingrays swam all around us. There were sharks in the water here, too. Rickee even got to kiss one of the stingrays!

Rickee kisses a stingray

The tour ended around 1:00pm and we were delivered back to the village and the pier where our ship's tender took us back to m/s Paul Gauguin. The ship operated tenders all day from 8:30am until 10:00pm, every thirty minutes. This made it very convenient for guests to go ashore for shopping or to enjoy lunch or dinner at a local restaurant.

m/s Paul Gauguin anchored in Bora Bora

We were back on board the ship by 2:00pm. I was able to grab a quick salad plate from Le Grill before they discontinued lunch service. In the meantime, Rickee wanted to grab a few rays by the pool. The sun has finally emerged from the clouds, and it is really HOT! Her stint in the Tahitian sun is a short one, and by 3:00pm she decides to retreat to the cool stateroom. Besides, we need to get ready for a special event to which we have been invited. At 5pm, we have been invited to celebrate our wedding anniversary with several other couples in Le Palette on Deck 8. Interesting, since we are not married! I can only assume that Paul Gauguin Cruises wanted us to experience this event so that we can inform others of what to expect when celebrating a honeymoon or anniversary aboard m/s Paul Gauguin.

Invitation to special celebration

When we arrived at Le Pallete, we were greeted by Cruise Director, Claudine, and a waiter brought us glasses of champagne. There were about ten other couples at the celebration, most celebrating anniversaries but there were also a couple of honeymooners. Les Gauguines were entertaining us with song, and a special dance was performed by one of the Gauguines.

Les Gauguines perform

After the reading of a poem (in three languages), each couple was wrapped in a special French Polynesian ceremonial blanket and the ship's photographer was on hand to capture the moment with Bora Bora in the background. Truly, this is an anniversary or honeymoon event that these folks will remember forever. The event ended with everyone being served a piece of cake.

Special anniversary/honeymoon cake

We feel very honored that Paul Gauguin Cruises included us in this special celebration. This is a very popular cruise with those who are celebrating an anniversary or honeymoon, and now we see why.

Photo session with ceremonial blanket

Our evening ended with a very romantic dinner at Le Grill on Deck 8. Le Grill is one of the specialty restaurants on board m/s Paul Gauguin. And, while there is no charge to dine here, reservations are required. What is a pretty typical pool grill at breakfast and lunch is magically transformed into a romantic bistro each evening with a unique Asian-inspired menu (same menu every day). Since we are anchored in a protected bay tonight, and the weather is perfect, the tables have been brought outside, around the pool. The only light is coming from the candlelit tables (I am pretty sure these are battery-operated candles), so it is too dark to get any good photos, but trust me, this is something you must experience when sailing on m/s Paul Gauguin.

After our meal, we retired to our stateroom to rest for another day of adventure in Bora Bora tomorrow where we will be experiencing our first ship's excursion!

Day 3 - Taha'a, Society Islands

Today, m/s Paul Gauguin is anchored off the shores of Taha'a, Society Islands, in French Polynesia. Our target destination is the tiny Motu Mahana, which has been set up for a day at the beach exclusively for guests of the m/s Paul Gauguin. However, since the tenders do not start operating until 10:30am, we have plenty of time to sit in on a Q&A session with Canadian chef, restaurateur and author, Vikram Vij. Chef Vij gave a brief talk about his culinary success, sharing his philosophy and answering questions from the audience. Chef Vij has a huge personality and we really enjoyed his session. We are looking forward to his cooking demo on Wednesday!

Chef Vikram Vij

After the Q&A with Chef Vij, we waste no time getting to Deck 3 to board the first tender to the island. The tender drops guests off about 50 yards from the beach, in knee-high, crystal clear water. Our aqua socks came in very handy as we made our way to the beach, where we were greeted by waiters offering cups of fruit punch.

Tender drops guests off in knee-high water at Motu Mahana

A floating inner tube has been decorated and converted into a swim-up bar and filled with bottles of rum, vodka, gin, and a variety of mixers. The floating bar would be visited by one of us at least one too many times before our day at the beach is over.

Rickee gets a rum punch from the floating "bar"

We quickly find a couple of loungers right on the shore with a great view of m/s Paul Gauguin in the distance. We drop all of our snorkeling gear on the loungers and head off to do a little exploring of the tiny motu.

m/s Paul Gauguin in the distance

We noticed a few little stalls set up along the beach with locals selling souvenirs. Rickee has been wanting a Pareo and several of the colorful wraps are gently swaying in the breeze, calling her name. As she shops for a Pareo, I sneak back to the bar for a delicious, and potent, rum punch.

Rickee picks out a pareo

Our objective in coming to Motu Mahana was to kayak the clear, calm waters surrounding the island, and perhaps even enjoy some snorkeling. That was our objective before my third rum punch. At one point, I even sent Rickee back out to the floating bar to get me another rum punch!

To heck with kayaking, bring more rum punch!

A couple of Les Gauguines were demonstrating how to crack open a coconut and all of the products that can be made using the meat, water and oil of the coconut.

Coconut demonstration

Of course, during Rickee's shopping, the coconut demonstration, etc., one thing remained consistent: my left hand was never far from a cup of the delicious rum punch. By the time the beach BBQ started, I was doing good to make it to the buffet line which, by the way, was filled with a variety of salads, veggies, BBQ chicken, ribs, burgers, hot dogs and fish. After lunch, it was pretty apparent I was in no shape to get into the water. As it turns out, I was so out of it, I forgot to get pictures of the beach BBQ!

So what did we learn today? One: The visit to Motu Mahana is one of the highlights of the 7-night Tahiti & Society Islands cruise, and two: I should never get near rum again. We caught a tender back to the ship where I attempted to sleep off my overindulgence. By the time for the sailaway party, I was back in full force. We visited the pool bar for a cocktail as m/s Paul Gauguin sailed away from Taha'a and toward Bora Bora.

For dinner this evening, we decided to try L'Etoile, the ship's main dining room. We were fortunate to get a nice table for two. The restaurant was busy, but not packed. Rickee had a salad for her main course and I tried the Thai Wok with shrimp and scallops.

Thai Wok served at L'Etoile

After dinner, we made our way to the Grand Salon for the evening show, "Unforgettable Divas," performed by our Cruise Director, Claudine Carle. The one-woman show featured several singing styles of international divas. Ms. Carle is obviously very talented and, by the end of the show, everyone was on the dance floor. The show ended with a rousing round of applause.

Claudine Carle performs "Unforgettable Divas"

After the show, we head back to the stateroom and to bed. Tomorrow will be a busy day as we visit Bora Bora!

Day 2 - Huahine, Society Islands

This morning, m/s Paul Gauguin is anchored off the coast of Huahine, Society Islands. In the past, Huahine was a center for Polynesian culture, and is now one of the richest in archeological sites.

Huahine

The day begins with an 8:30am muster drill held in the Grand Salon on Deck 5. Unlike most cruise ships, m/s Paul Gaugin does not store lifevests in the staterooms. Instead, they are on the lifeboats themselves, which makes sense when you think about it. So there was no need to drag a lifevest to the drill for the demonstration. Crew members demonstrated the proper way to put on the vest in the event of an emergency, then each group (A, C and D) were led out to the lifeboat deck for further safety instructions.

After the drill, we decided to grab a late breakfast in La Veranda (Deck 6 aft). They were just about to close down the breakfast buffet (open from 6:30am until 9:30am) but graciously took Rickee's egg order and gave us one last run at the buffet. After breakfast, Rickee wanted to learn how to tie a Pareo, a traditional Tahitian wraparound skirt/dress. Even though the Pareo can be worn by men or women, I did not choose to participate in the demonstration. I was left to camera duty instead.

Rickee learns the art of tying a Pareo

Since we expect to be spending some time in the water on this trip, we decided to visit the Marina on Deck 4 aft to obtain our snorkeling gear. Paul Gauguin Cruises provides guests with complimentary use of snorkel masks and fins. When we arrived, the marina door was open and some guests were already taking advantage of the paddleboards and kayaks, also provided for guest use.

Rickee gets fitted for fins

The weather today is a bit undecided. It is mostly cloudy, with a few bursts of sunshine breaking through, and even a little rain shower from time to time. There was something for everyone! Many guests went ashore for excursions and the ship ran tender service throughout the day for those wanting to go ashore on their own. There is also a shuttle that runs every thirty minutes to take guests into Fare from the tender pier. When we learned that the shops in town close at noon, we decided to stay on board and enjoy the pool, the intermittent sun, and other activities.

A beautiful day at the pool

Just aft of the pool is Le Grill, and that is where we decided to enjoy our lunch today. Le Grill offers a very nice selection of salads, sandwiches, soup, desserts and a made-to-order pasta station. The a la carte menu features burgers, hot dogs and sandwiches. I ordered a cheeseburger and Rickee tried the grilled mushroom and brie sandwich. Both came with fries and both were good!

Variety of salads offered at Le Grill for lunch

This afternoon, we thought we would check out the "Children of Huahine" show in the Grand Salon where a group of children from the local village of Tamarii Maroe entertained with a colorful local dance performance.

Children of Huahine perform

After the show, we read where Executive Chef Stephane Palluaud was going to perform a Moonfish presentation in Le Grill. Before long, Chef Paliuaud was carving up huge filets of the fish for this evening's dinner in Le 'Etoile restaurant.

Chef Paliuaud filets the Moonfish

After the demonstration, we had just enough time to stop by La Veranda on Deck 6 for "Ti No Avatea", or what we refer to as Afternoon Tea (4pm to 5pm). In addition to a substantial buffet of cookies, desserts, scones, et al, fresh, hot Crepe Suzette was being served.

Crepe Suzette

The visit to Afternoon Tea might have been the final nail in the coffin. There was no way we would be able to have dinner tonight! Instead, we decided to clean up and get dressed for the Captain's Welcome Party. After a quick meet-and-greet with the Captain and Senior Staff, we were treated to an Homage to Tableau Gauguin, a unique performance featuring Les Gauguines and music by Santa Rosa. Afterward, the Captain took the stage to introduce members of the Senior Staff and welcome all of the guests.

Captain Mirkovik

After the Welcome Party, we visited the Piano Bar on Deck 5. While most guests were heading to dinner, we sat at the Piano Bar enjoying a quiet cocktail and reflecting on all we had done today. Tomorrow, we will be in Taha'a where, weather permitting, we will enjoy a day at the beach!

Day 1 - Fly to Tahiti and Embark m/s Paul Gauguin

In spite of every effort by American Airlines to prevent us from making our 4:30pm departure on Air Tahiti Nui, we somehow arrived at LAX with only about 15 minutes to spare. The 45-minute wait for our luggage at baggage claim had us fearing that we might miss the flight to Tahiti. Rickee decided to walk over to the Tom Bradley International terminal to get us checked in while I waited for our luggage at baggage claim. The last time we took an international flight out of LAX, the line at security (TSA) took over an hour! Once Rickee made it to the Air Tahiti Nui desk, she texted me that a Paul Gauguin Cruises agent was there to reassure her that we would make the flight, no problem.

Paul Gauguin Cruises Agent

Not many cruise lines provide an agent to meet guests at an airport of departure. In fact, I can't think of another one right off hand. I have to tell you, it was very reassuring to have an advocate at the airport.

The flight from LAX to Papeete takes close to eight hours. And, no matter how hard we tried to use our American Airlines miles to upgrade to Business Class, we ended up in Economy. The seats are cramped, and quite uncomfortable, but there is a nice touch-screen entertainment system in the back of each seat with a decent selection of on-demand movies and games.

Air Tahiti Nui Economy Class

ATN does provide each seat with a pillow, blanket and small amenity kit. Meal service begins within an hour after takeoff and included a choice of fish or beef curry.

In-flight menu

I ordered the Beef Massaman Curry which, I am sorry to say, was inedible. I love curry, but everything in this dish tasted off, even the rice. I ate the chicken and rice salad and a piece of bread and sent the rest back.

Beef curry

To their credit, ATN does offer complimentary wine and spirits with dinner. They even offer a sparkling wine, which tasted quite nice.

About two hours before landing, there was another snack service, this time featuring a cold pasta salad with cheesecake. Overall, the service was good throughout the flight. Attendants routinely walked through the cabin offering water. Even though the flight was an hour late taking off, we did land on time in Papeete, Tahiti, at around 10:30pm. As we enter the open-air airport, we are greeted by Tahitian musicians before we line up at Immigration. A Customs form and an Immigration form were handed out on the flight, so we had them completed before we arrived

Immigration and Customs forms

Since the flight was full, the wait in line to clear Customs and Immigration took about 40 minutes, after which we collected our soaking wet (it was raining when we arrived) checked luggage and fought the substantial crowd to get outside the airport where a Paul Gauguin Cruises sign greeted us. The cruise line representative checked for our names on her list, then placed a fresh flower lei around our necks and guided us to the waiting bus.

Rickee gets her lei on

By the time we arrive at the pier, it is close to midnight. The first sign of 5-star service is when an attendant grabs Rickee's hand luggage to carry it up the gangway for her. We walk aboard on Deck 5 and are invited into the lounge where we are greeted with a glass of champagne. Check in is quick. A swipe of our passports and our photos are taken for security, then we are given our stateroom keys. A stewardess is waiting for us to escort us to our stateroom.

We are completely exhausted. By the time we unpack our luggage it is nearly 1am, and that is 5am at home! We quickly unpack and get into bed. We have to be up in time for the 8:30am muster drill. More details to come...