Itinerary: Dunedin, The Snares, Enderby Island, At Sea, Macquarie Island, At Sea, Campbell Island, At Sea, The Antipodes, Bounty Islands, Pitt Island, Chatham Islands, At Sea, Napier, Wellington

Just days after announcing Silversea Expeditions' Silver Explorer as our pick for BEST Expedition Cruise Ship in 2014, we embark on her sister, Silver Discoverer. This time, it is a 15-night expedition to the rarely visited subantarctic islands off the coast of New Zealand.

Silver Discoverer is the newest ship in the Silver Expeditions fleet, and she just happens to also be the smallest, catering to only 120 guests with a crew of 96. The ship was most recently refurbished in 2014. We boarded the ship using the gangway up to Deck 4 where you will find the Reception Desk and the Explorer Lounge. The Explorer Lounge is the hub of activity on Discoverer, serving as both the ship's lecture center and only indoor bar. Deck 3 is where you will find The Restaurant which is reminiscent of other Silversea ships and is the venue for evening meals. Deck 5 is where you will find the Discoverer Lounge, which is actually not a "lounge" at all but the ship's Lido buffet where all breakfast and lunch meals are served.

*Comfortable seating in Explorer Lounge*

Aft of Discoverer Lounge is the Pool Bar and The Grill (outside). This space is open for lunch each day serving burgers, hot dogs, fries, onion rings, chicken sandwiches, etc. In the evening, this space is used for Silversea's signature "Hot Rock" dining. Staterooms, or as Silversea prefers, "suites", are located on decks 3, 4, 5 and 6. On Deck 7 is the ship's small fitness center and salon/spa. There is a lot of open deck space on Deck 7 which is good for whale-watching or bird spotting. This is also where the ship stores the Zodiacs used for exploring and for shuttling guests to shore.

*Silver Discoverer is the smallest ship in the Silver Expeditions fleet*

There is an elevator across from Reception that takes you from Deck 3 all the way to Deck 7. There is only one indoor staircase located amidships. It is very easy to find your way around Silver Discoverer. Below the pool deck aft is where guests access the Zodiacs, the small, rubber expedition boats that are the workhorses of any expedition ship. A retractable "marina" platform makes embarking and disembarking the Zodiacs an easy process

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Veranda Suite on Deck 6 (604) was a comfortable 284 sq. ft (including a 30 sq. ft. balcony). The comfortable queen bed is two twin beds pushed together and topped with the highest quality linens you will find on any cruise ship. A selection of pillows is available to add to the perfect night's sleep.

On the wall across from the bed is a long desk/dresser/vanity with a mirror above and drawers for storage. Next to the bed is another desk that I was able to use for my laptop workstation. There is a small mini-fridge under the desk, stocked daily with your beverages of choice. On top of the desk is a plastic holder for glasses in an attempt to make this sort of an in-suite bar. There are two small closets side-by-side with adequate hanging space for a 15-night cruise. At the bottom of the closet there was one long, shallow drawer and one small drawer. There is also a large drawer under the bed on each side.

*Elegant accommodations for an expedition ship*

What you won't find are shelves in the room for things like camera gear, etc. We soon learned why this is the case on an expedition ship. In rough seas, you don't want your $3,000 Canon flying across the room! There is a nice sofa, marble coffee table and two chairs. The coffee table can easily be converted into a dining table for en suite dining (there is a square table top hidden behind the sofa that can be placed on the coffee table to make it larger.)

The large flat screen television is mounted on the wall across from the bed, just above the sofa. Silver Discoverer has a different television system than we experienced on Silver Explorer last year, and not one we are crazy about. In fact, the only real problem we had with the suite was with the television. First, the remote control would only work from within about three feet of the television, so to change channels, volume, etc, you had to get out of bed and walk over to the TV. That sort of defeats the purpose of a remote. Also, the television would routinely "crash" or hang, which meant a "reboot" of sorts was required. Our butler showed me how, by removing the HDMI cable on the side of the unit and re-inserting it, the system would reset itself. This was required at least once a day to keep the TV working. On the plus side, the programming choices offered are excellent. There are current movie choices, several news channels including FOX News, Sky News, BBC, etc. And, all of the TV programs can also be accessed over the ship's Wi-Fi using your laptop or portable device. Pretty cool.

The bathroom in the Veranda Suite is a nice size with decent storage. In keeping with Silversea's unmatched style, the bathroom is clad in elegant marble and amenitized (yes, I just made up that word) with high-quality Bvlgari products.

The most important feature of any Silversea suite is the butler, and we had a great one. Soon after we were in our suite, Jomit showed up to introduce himself and explain all about the suite. He and his assistant, Ronaldo, did an excellent job of keeping the suite in perfect condition during the cruise.

THE CREW

We have always found Silversea crew to be warm, friendly and welcoming. This was certainly the case on Silver Discoverer. Our butler, Jomit, seemed to know what we wanted even before we did. When he and his capable assistant, Ronaldo, decorated the suite for my birthday, the festive décor even included a light show! A Silversea butler will unpack your bags, make dining and/or spa reservations, arrange en suite dining, and provide just about anything else you might require. Both Jomit and Ronaldo went out of their way to always greet us by name and wish us a wonderful day. This level of friendly, efficient service pervaded the entire ship.

In the Explorer Lounge, Welma tended bar and always knew that Rickee liked Stellina prosecco and I liked Dewars on the rocks. When she found out we liked potato chips, she included them each day as one of our cocktail "snacks". Shieba knew we had a special wine and always made sure to have it available for us at lunch and dinner. After our first onboard dining experience, where Rolondo provided excellent service, he always brought butter and bottled water for us at lunch without our having to ask. In the Restaurant, we seemed to always occupy the same table for two where we were in the capable hands of Jesse. When he learned that Rickee liked smaller portions of food, he made sure that she always received a beautiful plate of food, just with smaller portions. These are just a few examples of the kind of excellent personalized service that each Silversea guest receives. It always amazes us that the crew can address each guest by name on the first day of the cruise!

FOOD AND DINING

Silversea always does a good job of providing a quality dining experience. That is no easy task on an expedition ship that can go 15 days without re-provisioning. Even though tomatoes and a few other fresh vegetable items become scarce by the end of the sailing, the executive chef and his brigade did an admirable job of delivering Silversea quality under challenging conditions. The breakfast buffet in Discoverer Lounge each morning had everything you would find on a much larger ship, including eggs made to order.

A substantial lunch buffet was served each day in Discoverer Lounge with a variety of salads, sandwiches, soups, main courses and desserts. We found a small table for two on the first day that was positioned right in the middle of the dining room (between port and starboard). The location in the middle minimizes the effect of any rolling motion of the ship. And, in the subantarctic region, the seas can be formidable. Since we always arrived for lunch early, this table became ours for the entire cruise. Even though Silversea offers a choice of red and white wines that change each day, we asked Shieba if they had any Riesling or Moscato on board. She presented us with a Bin 90 Moscato that was perfect for our tastes and from that day forward, we never had to ask. Shieba would bring us Bin 90 at lunch or dinner. That is typical of Silversea service and attention to detail.

*Discoverer Lounge is the spot for breakfast and lunch each day*

Another option at lunch is The Grill located aft on Deck 5. While we did not dine outside on this sailing due to the wind and cold, I did order a cheeseburger at lunch a couple of times from our waiter in Discoverer Lounge. The Grill offers burgers, fries, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, etc.

*A choice of delicious salads and sandwiches/wraps is available each day*

An Afternoon Tea is served each day at 4pm, typically in Discoverer Lounge. On sea days, the Tea was moved to Explorer Lounge and combined with Team Trivia. Afternoon Tea offers guests a selection of teas along with scones, cookies, finger sandwiches and other goodies.

For dinner, guests can choose from three venues. First, The Restaurant on Deck 3 is a formal dining room with full menu service. I should qualify that "formal" pertains only to the decor of the dining room, and the dress code of the staff. There are no "formal" nights on Silversea Expeditions (see Experience below for more information on dress codes). Another option is to dine al fresco on Deck 5 at The Grill featuring "hot rock" dining under the stars. Guests choose their seafood or prime meats and grill them at their table on a heated volcanic rock plate. We have enjoyed Hot Rocks on other Silversea ships, but did not dine there on Silver Discoverer. It was a bit cold and windy outside on this sailing, and The Restaurant was so comfortable we found ourselves dining there each night. Another option is room service. In the evening, any item on The Restaurant menu is available for delivery to your suite.

ENTERTAINMENT/ACTIVITIES

Each Silversea Expeditions ship is staffed with a knowledgeable and capable Expedition Team consisting of subject matter experts in various scientific fields pertinent to the area in which you are sailing. On our Sub-Antarctic Islands voyage, we had the pleasure of again sailing with Expedition Leader, Juan Restrepo, with whom we had sailed last year onboard Silver Explorer in the Chilean Fjords. Juan and his team of nine were always available to answer questions or provide additional information about what we had seen on our excursions.

As with most expedition voyages, this trip was all about the destination and the amazing wildlife and birds that populate this remote area. The ship does not have a casino or production shows in the evening. There are no guest entertainers, although each evening Mervin played the piano for our listening pleasure in the Explorer Lounge. We were entertained by the incredible scenery and plants and birds and seals and whales we saw each day, either from a trip to shore in the Zodiac or a Zodiac "cruise" around that day's island when local regulations did not allow us to go ashore. Expedition Team members were utilized as Zodiac drivers and pointed out wildlife, geological formations, birds and plant life as we motored to or around an island. The fleet of Zodiacs that the ship carries make it possible to get to places where there are no piers and to islands surrounded by shallow waters. These rigid rubber boats are specifically designed for nature exploration and are rugged and very safe, sturdy and durable. The marina platform at the aft end of Silver Discoverer made getting into and out of the Zodiacs a lot easier.

*Zodiacs are the workhorses of a Silversea Expeditions adventure*

On our few days at sea, or mornings and afternoons en route to our next island, members of the Expedition Team gave lectures on subjects in their fields of expertise which, among our Expedition Team, included botany, zoology (especially ornithology), marine biology, geology, and history of exploration. Documentary videos pertinent to the area we were visiting were shown in Explorer Lounge. Afternoon Tea Team Trivia was conducted by different members of the Expedition Team and the questions were usually based on his or her latest lecture. On some days, weather-permitting, deck time with the Expedition Team was scheduled where guests would join the team on deck to look for sea birds or other wildlife.

Each evening during Recap and Briefing, everyone looked forward to Juan's description of what we would see and do the next day. His detailed charts on predicted weather and sea conditions were spot on! In addition, Expedition Team members would take turns giving short presentations "recapping" and elaborating on what we had seen that day. During this time each evening, canapes were offered by waiters.

Another activity we enjoyed was a "martini tasting" where we got to taste four different martinis and see how each is made. We sat around the bar in Explorer Lounge and watched Welma make the martinis while Bar Manager, Elbert, talked about the ingredients and how each recipe originated. It was great fun and we all received a copy of the martini "recipes" to take with us.

To let you know what to expect for the next day, activities and meal times were noted in the Chronicles which was delivered to your stateroom each evening. The Chronicles also presented information about the history of the island we would visit next and what we should expect to see there in the way of flora and fauna. It was a nice introduction to things to come.

There is a small gym on Deck 7 and a spa offering services such as massage, manicures and pedicures.

THE DESTINATION

Expedition cruises are ALL about the destination and this one was no exception. The subantarctic islands are a remote group of islands south of New Zealand which, in recognition of their rare and special nature, were designated a World Natural Heritage Area in 1998. Because these islands, uninhabited by humans, are so remote and logistically difficult to get to, they are visited by only about 500 tourists per year. Silver Discoverer visited all five island groups - The Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Auckland and Campbell Islands - each of which exhibit a character all its own. Their geographical isolation from the mainland and each other has shaped these islands' remarkable biodiversity and made them epicenters of evolution. We also visited Macquarie Island, Australia, where they had recently successfully completed a seven-year project to eradicate rats, rabbits and mice from the island.

Silversea works closely with the Department of Conservation of New Zealand, and by implementing strict bio-security protocols, ensures that no invasive species are introduced on to these pristine islands or transferred from one island to another by Silversea guests. Before boarding the Zodiac to go ashore, Silver Discoverer guests were required to thoroughly examine all outerwear for any foreign material, such as grass burrs or seeds, that could be inadvertently taken ashore. A handheld vacuum cleaner was available to remove any debris. Before our first landing, each guest took their items to the Explorer Lounge where they were further checked by an Expedition Team member. Walking sticks had to be sanitized as did tri-pods. A boot cleaning station consisting of a plastic pan of sanitizing solution was placed at the bottom of the stairs leading to the Zodiac area and guests were required to clean their rubber boots before going ashore. This same process was repeated upon return from an island: boots were dipped and rinsed before the guest headed up to the Pool Deck.

Spanning six degrees of latitude, from 47 to 52 degrees south, the five island groups occupy the stormy latitudes of the "Roaring Forties" and "Furious Fifties". While we did experience rolling seas on a regular basis, only on one night did the area truly live up to its nickname with huge waves and high winds. The weather was mostly windy, cloudy and overcast, with frequent drizzle and cool temperatures. The few days when the sun did shine were magnificent.

*The SubAntarctic region can produce some rough seas*

At least 11 percent of all the world's seabirds breed in the subantarctic region of New Zealand and over 120 species have been observed at the islands or in the surrounding ocean, which makes these islands a birder's paradise. One of the rarest members of the seal family is found at Auckland and Campbell Islands: the New Zealand sea lion. Some of the islands have endemic life forms, meaning these life forms are found nowhere else in the world. There are no fewer than 15 species of land birds that are endemic to the subantarctic islands.The plant life of the subantarctic region is no less unusual. The World Conservation Union has designated the region a "world center of floristic diversity".

*Elephant Seal pup on Macquarie Island, Australia*

People visit these islands for commercial and scientific reasons and recently, for tourism. They want to experience the awesome wildlife in a remote and physically challenging setting. With more information becoming available about this area through documentaries and magazine articles and reviews such as this one, the curiosity about these remote islands increases. There is no better way to explore this incredible destination than on a Silversea Expeditions voyage.

THE EXPERIENCE

The typical expedition cruise guest is 40 to 60 years old, well-traveled and may or may not be an enthusiast of "traditional" cruising. Expedition cruises tend to attract those more interested in 'exploring' than 'cruising'. Many people are on the ship simply because it is the only way to get to the islands they are interested in visiting. Many of the guests on our cruise were hard-core "birders". Several different nationalities were represented, with only 11 guests from the United States. However, English was the official language spoken on the ship.

*The SubAntarctic Islands are a birder's paradise*

Every morning when an island visit or Zodiac tour was scheduled, Juan, the Expedition Leader, would gently wake us with an announcement over the PA one hour before departure. He told us the ship's location (longitude and latitude), what the weather conditions were and the outside temperature. If you did not want to hear this announcement, you could turn off the audio system in your suite.

Every Silversea Expedition features complimentary excursions led by the Expedition Team. Activities vary daily and are designed for most levels of interest and physical ability. Zodiacs are used to explore and as transportation to shore. Silversea provides a waterproof parka, a backpack and a stainless steel water bottle for each guest, all of which you can take home with you. As the Southern Ocean can sometimes be a bit rough, it is essential that you bring water-resistant pants and rubber boots to wear in the Zodiac to protect against the waves that inevitably splash over and into the boat. The rubber boots are necessary for getting out of the Zodiac to the shore which sometimes means stepping in shallow water. Boots can be necessary for walks on shore where conditions are sometimes muddy or there are streams to cross. Dressing in layers is crucial.

*Silversea provides a waterproof and warm parka that is yours to keep*

The excursions on our Sub-Antarctic Islands voyage included several hikes, some of which involved a boardwalk and some that did not. Sometimes there was a choice of excursions, with one usually designed for only the fittest guests and involving long hikes over challenging terrain. During one Zodiac cruise of the Antipodes, we sailed around a huge rock formation and were greeted by a Zodiac full of crew offering us champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries! Each time we returned from a Zodiac trip, we were greeted with a hot hand towel and a smiling Shanna Kay who offered us welcome-back beverages on the Pool Deck.

*Several excellent guided hikes were offered on the islands*

The dress code aboard Silver Discoverer is definitely casual during both daytime and evening. A few jackets and ties were visible at the Captain's Welcome Dinner and Farewell Dinner, but not many. Officially, the dress code, as indicated in the Chronicles, is "casual" on most nights with a few evenings designated as "casually elegant". Don't wear shorts, jeans or t-shirts to dinner and you will be fine. There is no need to bring a lot of clothes on this trip as laundry service is available for a fee.

There is a doctor on board, should you need medical attention. If you tend to get seasick, bring medication as the seas in this area are known to be rough. Silver Discoverer has logo items available for purchase from Reception. There is a display case of available items outside the Discoverer Lounge on Deck 5. There were few places on this trip to purchase souvenirs, since the subantarctic islands are uninhabited.

The fact that you can visit these remote islands in such luxury and style on a Silversea Expedition cruise makes the journey that much better!

SUMMARY

In many respects, an expedition cruise is about as far from what we have come to know as "the Silversea Experience" as you can get. When you think of Silversea, you think of elegance, fine dining, champagne, over-the-top service and personal attention. You don't think of it involving tromping through the mud on some uninhabited island, or sitting in the middle of 100,000 odiferous penguins. For this reason, Silversea has wisely established a separate brand, "Silversea Expeditions", so as to avoid any confusion. We have been on many expedition cruises and I can honestly say that none do a better job of the expedition side of the equation. The Expedition Team on Silver Discoverer (and on Silver Explorer in 2014) are excellent. What makes Silversea Expeditions unique is, at the "end of the day", (literally) after removing the parka and the muddy boots, guests get to enjoy the "Silversea Experience". It is this blending of "Silversea" and "Expedition" that makes this product truly one-of-a-kind. Trust me, the champagne tastes even better after a day of hiking and bird-watching.