Scotch and Water - Hebridean Island Cruises Review
/Hebridean Spirit docked in Kusadasi, Turkey
Alma Moss is an “eighty-something” great-grandmother and a seasoned cruise veteran with eleven cruises on Hebridean to her credit. You will not find Alma on the big cruise ships in the Caribbean. Alma is perfectly happy on her favorite ship, the Hebridean Spirit. In fact, Alma has already booked three more cruises on Spirit and her sister ship, Hebridean Princess. Any cruise line would love to have loyal passengers like Alma. Hebridean Island Cruises appears to have a lot of them.
Hebridean Island Cruises is a small ship cruise line operating two vessels. The company is based in England and is primarily marketed in the U.K. Hebridean Princess was the first ship in the 16-year old company’s fleet. Originally built as a ferry, the Princess was completely reincarnated in 1989 as a luxury cruise ship with a passenger capacity of just 49 guests. Between March and November, Hebridean Princess embarks on three to eight-night cruises to the Inner and Outer Hebrides (in Scotland) and ventures north to the Orkneys and Shetlands, and for 2005 Norway. By contrast, her sister ship, Hebridean Spirit, is a bit larger, catering to 80 guests, and sails year round to exotic destinations ranging from the northernmost extremes of Norway to the Indian Ocean.
Our seven night cruise from Kusadasi (pronounced ‘koo-shuh-da-suh’ in Turkish), Turkey, to Catania, Sicily, aboard Hebridean Spirit was an adventure few Americans get to enjoy. Even though Hebridean Cruises does not actively market its cruises in North America, Americans and Canadians are welcome and can inquire about Hebridean through any U.S. travel agent. On our sailing, Rickee and I were the only Americans on board. The majority of the guests were from the U.K. with a couple of Canadians thrown in for good measure.
Getting to the Ship
Many sailings on Hebridean Spirit will begin with a charter flight from London’s Stansted airport to the city from which the ship will depart. Hebridean has contracted with Charter Express to provide its charter air services. Our trip began with a flight on American Airlines, Business Class service, from DFW to London's Gatwick airport scheduled to arrive the day before the cruise. We made the mistake of taking the train from Gatwick to Stansted airport. Even though the trip by train was an hour shorter than the bus trip, this plus turned into a minus when I had to lug our heavy bags up and down several flights of stairs at various train stations each time we had to change trains. It also didn't help that our first train broke down and had to be removed from service forcing us to find another way to reach our destination.
CruiseReport.com Tip If you are taking the trains in London don’t waste your money on a First Class ticket. The seating is not that much better.
The train trip took about 1 hour 45 minutes total to finally reach the Stansted airport station and we arrived at the Stansted Radisson SAS hotel around noon. If you are planning to stay at Stansted overnight, we highly recommend Radisson SAS. The hotel is located at the airport and is a short walk from the terminal building. The Radisson SAS is brand new and beautiful. We heard several complaints about the Stansted Hilton and opted for the Radisson SAS instead. It was a wise choice.
The next morning, we walked from the hotel to the terminal (about a 3 minute walk) at 6:30am and proceeded to the Hebridean charter air check-in counter. We were given our boarding passes and instructed to go to the gate where there would be a continental breakfast available. Once we arrived at the gate, Hebridean representatives were there to greet us and offer coffee, tea, juice and a variety of pastries. Champagne and Mimosas were available, too! We were amazed by the number of people mingling in the gate area who appeared to already know each other from previous Hebridean cruises.
At 7:45am we begin boarding the chartered Boeing 737 for the flight to Izmir, Turkey, a 3 ½ hour flight with a 2 hour time change. There were about 68 passengers on the flight so there was plenty of room to spread out. The seating on the plane was a little cramped, but Hebridean distributed a note explaining that the “normal” charter jet was being re-configured with a new interior and the plane we were on was only being used temporarily. There were 5 flight attendants and all were very professional and courteous. A nice meal was served about 1 ½ hours after takeoff.
Upon arrival in Izmir, Turkey, we identified our bags, breezed through immigration and were loaded onto two motor coaches for the 30 minute ride from Izmir to Kusadasi, the port city from where the ship embarks. All of the baggage was handled for us by Hebridean and we never saw our bags again until we boarded the ship.
When we arrived in Kusadasi, we again went through port security and made the short walk to the ship. We boarded the ship on Deck 3 where Captain Tim Roberts was waiting to greet all of us. After a short stop at the Reception Desk to drop off our passports, we were given our room keys and boarding cards and were escorted to our stateroom.
The Ship
The Skye Lounge is the main meeting spot on Hebridean Spirit.
Hebridean Spirit is the larger of the two Hebridean vessels. She can accommodate up to 80 passengers and has a full-time crew of around 70. That is nearly a 1:1 crew to guest ratio. The ship looks a bit stodgy and, quite frankly, unimpressive from the exterior. However, the interior areas of the Spirit are very well-appointed. The ship’s hallways and cabins are lined with dark, rich hardwoods upon which are hung artwork. When the ship is docked, all guests arrive on Deck 3 into the ship’s Reception area. A small lounge area, the Purser’s Office, and a small gift shop are located here. Just aft of Reception is the Skye Lounge, the ship’s largest gathering spot.
The décor of the Skye Lounge is English Country House with a variety of high back armchairs, elegant sofas and mahogany tables. The feeling is more like being in someone’s home instead of in a cruise ship lounge. There is even a large fireplace at one end of the room (for visual effect only). The Skye Lounge is the central meeting place for virtually all functions on board. Evening cocktail receptions, excursion talks and lectures all take place here.
The Argyll Restaurant is located on Deck 2 and is the ship’s main dining salon for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The décor is elegant without being too stuffy or pretentious. The Spa and Gymnasium are located on Deck 4 aft. There is a small hair salon, a massage room and a workout room with a treadmill, exercise bike and, well, that’s about it. Deck 5 is the Mizzen Deck and is where you will find the pool (albeit a very small one), a pool bar and tables for al fresco dining. Deck 6 hosts the Travel Library, the Look out Lounge which was the cigar/smoking lounge, and the Panorama Lounge. 'Serve yourself ' coffee, tea and pastries were available 24-hours a day from an area outside the Travel Library, and bottles of liquor and mixers were available in the Panorama Lounge at all times in case you felt the urge to mix yourself a drink or have a nightcap. Fresh fruit was offered from a large beautiful bowl placed in the Panorama Lounge.
The vessel is extremely well maintained. There is no visible rust on the exterior painted areas and all carpeting and fabrics are spotless. A few smudges on the brass handrails are about all you may encounter, which are nearly impossible to avoid. There are public restrooms on every deck and they were spotless, as well.
One of the most notable features of the ship is how mechanically sound she is. Unquestionably this is one of the quietest ships we have ever sailed on. There is virtually no engine noise or vibration anywhere on the ship, even on the lower aft decks.
Accommodations
Staterooms are large and tastefully decorated.
All staterooms on Hebridean Spirit are ocean view and a few have balconies (on Deck 5). Our stateroom was on Deck 3 and had a large picture window. There are some staterooms on Deck 2 that have portholes. The stateroom was larger than you might expect on a small ship, especially the bathroom. Dark wood paneling gives the room a yacht-like feel. There is plenty of closet space with wooden hangers and, something we have never seen on a cruise ship before, an iron and ironing board! There is also a nifty heated trouser press. The small entertainment center/storage area contains several drawers, a mini-bar stocked with complimentary soft drinks and other beverages, a safe and a coffee/tea maker.
The seating area consists of two comfortable chairs and a small coffee table. The queen-size bed was a little too firm for our liking, but it was not “rock hard” like some we have seen (or felt). The bedding was pretty standard hotel-type sheets and blankets.
The bathroom was very nice, with a large tub/shower combination. A single large sink with vanity along with an additional group of shelves above the toilet offered plenty of room for all of our toiletries in addition to the Molton Brown amenities provided by Hebridean. Another first, a heated towel rack!
Each stateroom includes a 15” color television with only a few stations, two of which play ship information and messages. There is a DVD player and DVD movies are available from the Panorama Lounge. However, the selection was very limited.
There is a 110 volt electrical outlet located underneath the vanity in the bedroom and another one on the wall next to the bed. You would be well-advised to take a small power strip with you if you have more than one electrical appliance. The vanity is too small to be used as a desk, so to work on my laptop I had to use the coffee table and plug into the outlet next to the bed.
Another nice feature is a large wall clock in each stateroom which is automatically adjusted to any time zone changes.
Martin Treacher recites the 'address to a Haggis' for guests attending the Captain's Farewell Dinner.
Food and Dining
Breakfast and lunch are available in the Argyll Restaurant and on the Mizzen Deck (Lido). Dinner is served only in The Argyll Restaurant, except on special evenings where Hebridean will feature dinner “under the stars” on the Mizzen Deck. On our voyage, "Mediterranean Night" was the featured outdoor dining theme. The Mizzen Deck hosts a buffet for breakfast and lunch. At breakfast, there are eggs made to order, pastries, cheeses, cereals and, of course, pottage, which is actually oatmeal. Careful if you order your pottage with a “wee dram” or it will come with a shot of Whiskey! While the Mizzen Deck offers a beautiful al fresco dining experience, it is too small to accommodate everyone on the ship and it tends to get very crowded. A quieter choice is The Argyll Restaurant, which offers the same menu and full table service. There are lots of tables for two available, but these tables are arranged in such a way that you can easily converse with the guests at the tables nearby. There is a nice Afternoon Tea each afternoon in the Skye Lounge and before dinner each evening, guests are invited to the Skye Lounge for a cocktail reception with hors d'oeuvres. The only room service offered on Hebridean Spirit is for the two suites on board, St. Oran and St. Columba (from 8:30am to 10:00pm). However, on one particularly rough seas night when we did not make it to the dining room for dinner, Nigel Sheppard, the ship’s Food & Beverage Manager, noticed that we weren't in the dining room and called our stateroom to ask if we would like to have something delivered to the room. In no time, a cheese and cracker plate was delivered to our room. How about that for customer care and personal service? And this is only one example of just how well Hebridean cares for their guests.
Being from Texas, I recognized that the menu at the Captain's Farewell Dinner was about as far from southern cooking as you can get.
Terrine of Sweetbread, Wild Mushrooms and Foie Gras
Kilmeny Kale From The Kingdom of Fife
a broth of bacon, rabbit & cabbage"Chieftan O The Puddin Race"
neeps & champit tatties (haggis)Oven Baked Loin Of Venison
spiced red cabbage, carmelized shallots, cocotte potatoes, & rowanberry sauceSteamed Delice of Salmon
fragrant parsley coulis
I can only comment on that which I actually tasted. The venison was excellent. On evenings where there was nothing particularly appealing on the menu, Rickee and I would order a steak. Although somewhat undercooked, the filet mignon was excellent quality, tender and flavorful.
The menus are definitely designed to fit British tastes and seasoned mildly to accommodate the generally older clientele. I found myself reaching for the salt grinder regularly. Unfortunately, the salt grinders had a tendency to malfunction. The pepper grinders, on the other hand, worked perfectly. I was even tempted to purchase some granulated salt in port to bring back on the ship. To their credit, the wait staff always found a replacement salt grinder that worked. Nigel Sheppard, the ship’s Food & Beverage Manager, was more than happy to accommodate my request for green vegetables each evening. Each night I was brought a plate of asparagus, broccoli, or green beans.
Desserts were very well prepared. Our favorite was the Bread and Butter Pudding with warm custard. The selection of cheeses was second to none. A huge platter with at least 20 different cheeses is offered at the end of the evening meal with a choice of crackers and grapes. Oddly, it is difficult to get a cup of coffee to enjoy with dessert at lunch and dinner. That is a shame since, at breakfast Hebridean has, without question, the best coffee I have ever tasted on any cruise ship. Each table is delivered a fresh-brewed pot of hot, delicious coffee at breakfast, but one must go to the Skye Lounge or Mizzen Deck to get coffee after lunch or dinner.
The dining room staff is eastern European and very friendly, even though not as polished as you might expect on a cruise line of this caliber. However, our waiter, Oleg, always remembered that we drank 'still' water and Antonia, the wine stewardess, always brought us our soft drink of choice at lunch without our having to order it. Some of the staff appeared to be new and not fully trained. One evening in the Skye Lounge I ordered a Scotch and water on the rocks and got a tumbler full of straight Scotch, no water or ice! It appears that the bartender had never made a Scotch and water before or perhaps there was a bit of a language barrier. Nonetheless, his supervisor arrived shortly thereafter and corrected the drink order.
Entertainment
Martin Treacher piped us out of port each day and serenaded us on the piano each evening.
By big ship standards, the entertainment on Hebridean Spirit is minimal. However, you find that on smaller ships there is tendency to interact more with other passengers and crew, so "formal" entertainment is not really missed. Each evening, Martin Treacher delighted guests with his piano and vocals. An accomplished piper, Mr. Treacher was also found wandering the Promenade Deck each day as the ship left port, blowing a Scottish tune on his bagpipes.
For intellectual stimulation, Hebridean offered a very interesting lecture series about pirates presented by John Lello. Guest lecturers with specialties applicable to the itinerary are featured on most voyages.
The most formidable entertainment on Hebridean is the itinerary. Unquestionably, this small cruise line has some of the most aggressive and impressive itineraries of any cruise line in the world. Your days are spent in port, discovering new cultures and ancient civilizations and your evenings are spent in the Skye Lounge mingling with new friends, discussing what you experienced that day. What better entertainment could you ask for?
The Hebridean Experience
Rickee and me with new friends, Rick and Doreen Abbott from Ontario, Canada.
Hebridean Island Cruises knows its passengers and knows how to please them. Perhaps that is at least one reason they have earned a 5-Star Award from the Scottish Tourist Board.
Hebridean is an expensive vacation, even for Brits; however, this cruise line comes about as close to being all-inclusive as you can get. All excursions, transfers, charter air to/from London Stansted airport, soft drinks, bottled water, beer, wine and liquor (except for premium brands) are included in the fare. Even minor medical care provided by the ship’s doctor is included! Even though Americans are very welcome on Hebridean, the current weakness of the U.S. Dollar versus the British Pound makes this cruise an expensive venture for Americans.
We were constantly impressed with the lengths Hebridean goes to insure the comfort of its guests. Crew members were present on every excursion and coach ride. Complimentary bottles of water were available for every excursion and, during the excursion, crew members could be seen walking around with bottled water and paper cups offering drinks of water to guests. There was always a crew member available to assist someone up steep walkways or stairs. They really take exceptional care of their guests and seem to genuinely enjoy doing so. There were always two motor coaches provided for each excursion so guests would not be crowded. The local guides provided for each excursion were extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic about their subject matter. The daily shore excursions were indeed a highlight of the trip and eagerly anticipated.
92% of Hebridean guests are British and there is an extremely high percentage of repeat guests. For this reason, the atmosphere is family-like and intimate. The feeling is more like being a guest at a house party than a passenger on a cruise ship. The Captain was always accessible and he and his officers mingled with the group before and during dinner. The folks we talked to during our cruise had nothing but glowing things to say about the company, the ship and the crew. Not one single negative comment the entire week. Not one!
The dress code on Hebridean is a throwback to the traditional days of cruising. Gentlemen will almost always wear a jacket to dinner, most with ties. Ladies are adorned in dresses or dressy pant suits. There are usually two formal evenings on a seven-night cruise, as was the case on our sailing. All but a handful of gentlemen wore tuxedos on formal night. It was nice to be on a cruise where guests were expected to dress appropriately and did so willingly.
The Hebridean experience is as much about the guests as it is about the cruise ship and staff. An example of this is the onboard publication, The Hebridean Times, which features stories about the guests and things that happened to them around the ship and during the shore excursions. The British people are wonderful travel companions. Everyone is pleasant and oh-so-civilized. As the British would say “everyone is just lovely.”
Disembarkation
The very nature of small ship cruising makes disembarkation a much less stressful experience than on larger ships. Hebridean does a very nice job of making this process smooth and effortless. You place checked luggage outside your stateroom when you go to breakfast on disembarkation morning. Smaller luggage can be carried onto the motor coach and the charter flight. Everyone begins leaving the vessel around 9:00am, so there is plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast before disembarking. The Captain and crew are lined up to say goodbye to the disembarking guests, most of whom have already booked one or more return visits to the Hebridean Spirit. On most voyages, a tour of the city is included on the day of departure for London. We toured Catania, Sicily, and were treated to a wonderful Mediterranean-style lunch before heading to the airport for the flight back to London.
The Itinerary
Navplion, Greece
Navplion is the port city for Epidavros, an ancient Greek center of healing with ruins dating back to the 5th century B.C. The centerpiece of this archeological site is the best preserved of all ancient Greek theaters. Capable of seating upwards of 12,000 spectators, the ancient theater has near-perfect acoustics. A person standing in the middle of the orchestra can be heard at a whisper from the top row of the theater. The drive from Navplion to Epidavros takes 30 minutes by motorcoach.
In the afternoon, Hebridean offered a walking tour of Navplion with a local guide.
Time for a quick photo op as we transit the Corinth Canal.
Corinth Canal Transit
To get from Navplion to our next port-of-call, Itea, Greece, requires a transit through the Corinth Canal. The Corinthian canal, completed between 1882 and 1893, connected the Gulf of Corinth with the Aegean Sea. It is only four miles in length and 75 feet wide. Therefore, large freighters and cruise ships cannot fit through the narrow passageway. Unlike the Panama Canal where ships are “dragged” through using mules, ships transiting the Corinth Canal are guided through with a tug.
The trip through the canal takes about an hour and only one ship at a time can make the journey. Transiting the canal had a special meaning to me and Rickee as it is the second of three such canals that we have transited. We hope to transit the Suez Canal later this year!
Itea, Greece (Dephi)
“Take good walking shoes if you are visiting Delphi. There is lot of walking up rock and marble steps which can be slippery.”
Upon arrival in Itea, we immediately boarded the coaches for the 30-minute drive up the winding mountain highway to Delphi, the religious and spiritual center of the ancient Greek world and arguably the most historic site in Greece. The first traces of inhabitation at Delphi date back to the Mycenaean period (14th – 11th century B.C). The first stone temples at Delphi, one dedicated to Apollo and the other to Athena, were built toward the end of the 7th century B.C.
During the period from the 6th to 4th century B.C., the sanctuary at Delphi flourished and was adorned with a large number of votives and buildings dedicated to Apollo by the Greek cities and private individuals. Worshippers and public messengers came to Delphi from all over the world to seek the advice of the god and an oracle whenever they were about to make a serious decision.
Corfu, Greece
The capital and main port of Corfu is the largest town in the Ionian Islands. It is one of the most elegant and impressive towns in Greece and has an architecture influenced by all the civilizations that once occupied the island such as the Venetians, the French and the English.
It is a town of unique charm and character. Corfu is one of the most popular shopping islands in Greece.
Our coach tour of Corfu included the new fort (which was built in the 16th century), the open-air fish and vegetable market and narrow winding streets of Corfu. The Esplanade was turned into a public square by the French. They designed the square following the French style and planted it with trees and flowers. Today, the Esplanade Square is the central square of Corfu Town. The Square welcomes cricket matches and is the only place in Greece where this sport is played. It is one of the heritages of the English occupation. We also toured the town of Corfu by foot and enjoyed window shopping in all the many stores.
Gallipoli, Sicily
A bridge connects the fishing town and island of Gallipoli to Italy's mainland. The city's entrance is guarded by a castle, and its Baroque cathedral dates back to the 16th century. Old Town Gallipoli is a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with art shops whose contents spill brightly out the doors and windows to liven up the ancient sidewalks. We took a guided walking tour of old Gallipoli then ventured out on our own to explore and look for pizza. We were not successful in our quest as it was Sunday and many stores and restaurants were closed.
Siracusa, Sicily
The town is situated partially on the mainland of Sicily’s east coast and partially on an island connected to the mainland by two small bridges. There are two areas that are of major interest and should not be missed – the Archaeological Park on the mainland, and the island of Ortigia, site of the ancient city first inhabited by the Greeks.
We opted for the morning guided tour of the ruins at Siracusa with a knowledgeable guide who also exhibited a beautiful singing voice when we visited the 'Ear of Dionysius' cave. The echo of her rendition of Ave Maria in the cave was hauntingly beautiful.
On the schedule for the afternoon was a guided walking tour of Ortigia. Today, Ortigia still features a few reminders of its glorious Greek past, but the main attractions are its fine Baroque buildings and fountains along with the Piazza del Duomo, reputed to be one of Italy’s prettiest squares. All are a testimony to Syracuse’s great past and make this port of call a fascinating place to visit.
Great shopping and dining make Taormina, Sicily a popular tourist destination.
Taormina, Sicily
Rough seas necessitated a detour from our planned docking point of Giardini Naxos, Sicily, to Messina. Hebridean quickly made plans for the coaches to pick us up at the port of Messina for the 30 mile trip to Taormina. The east coast of Sicily is considered by many to be its most magnificent. Lovely Taormina was called "the greatest work of art and nature" by Goethe in his Italian Journey. Situated 673 feet above the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna as a spectacular backdrop, this storybook town of sculpted gardens, stately palaces and ancient monuments is easily one of Sicily’s most striking sites.
There is something here for every taste: from the ancient Greek amphitheater and medieval cathedral to her panoramic public gardens and picture-perfect beaches. The main attractions in Taormina have to be seen on foot. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring all the narrow winding streets in Taormina and treated ourselves to pizza and gelato. Delicious!
Catania, Sicily
The disembarkation port for our journey was Catania, Sicily. We left Hebridean Spirit on the last morning as we found her, with Captain Tim Roberts waving to us as the motor coaches pulled away. The buses made their way through the busy streets of this port city to drop us off at the walls of the city. Catania is a large, bustling city buzzing with activity. After a brief walking tour with our guide, we were given a couple of hours to explore on our own before lunch. The streets of the city are wide and lined with shops and cafes. The farmer's market is something to behold. Row after row of vendors selling fresh cheeses, raw meats, vegetables and fruit. It was a maze of activity and interest. A rain storm forced us into a small Italian coffee shop where I warmed up with a cup of fresh Cappuccino. Only 1 Euro (about $1.25) compared to $3.50 at Starbucks!
Huge trays of grilled eggplant, zuccini and rissoto are passed from table to table at a Sicilian feast.
Because our charter flight left from Catania at 3:00pm, Hebridean arranged for a very special Sicilian luncheon at a local restaurant. What a fabulous addition! Tables crammed together in a noisy room might seem uncomfortable, but it was the perfect setting for this type of affair. A Sicilian chef prepared fresh pasta tableside while waiters squeezed their way between the tables with huge trays of hot and cold dishes. It was a feast to remember and a great time was had by all.
Thumbs Up
Ship decor – The ship is tastefully decorated and comfortable.
Mechanical – Virtually no engine noise or vibration, even at top cruising speeds.
Overall Service – Everyone was very friendly and helpful. Crew members routinely go out of their way to make guests feel welcome and comfortable.
Argyll Restaurant – Menus are limited by American standards, but all food is prepared well and top quality ingredients are used. Service is friendly and efficient.
Skye Lounge – This lounge looks more like a parlor in an English country home. Very inviting and comfortable.
Spa – Treat yourself to a great massage from Caroline. She is amazing!
Itinerary - Hebridean has some of the most intense and exciting itineraries of any cruise line.
Liquor Policy – All drinks are included in your cruise fare on Hebridean with the exception of premium brands.
Disembarkation – Very efficient and relaxed, like the rest of the cruise.
Senior Friendly – The staff is very prepared to cater to older travelers.
Stateroom - Our ocean view stateroom was roomy, clean and quiet with plenty of storage and a large bathroom.
Thumbs Down
Room Service – There isn't any.
Internet Connection – There is a computer and Internet access in the Panorama Lounge, but alas, it did not work the entire trip.
Bar Service – Unfortunately, on our cruise there was a new bartender who lacked experience or training. We had a difficult time getting a couple of drink orders correct. We are confident that Hebridean will correct this.
Summary
Hebridean is an excellent choice for those who can afford it. It is truly a 'stress-free' cruise with everything included in the price (except for international air). Hebridean is perhaps best for senior couples or singles since they are accustomed to serving this segment of the market. With just a few tweaks here and there, it would have easily been one of our 6-Star picks.
If you have any questions about our Hebridean Spirit cruise, please feel free to email us at reviews@cruisereport.com and we will do our best to answer any questions.
